EG clubs/owner etc

mADmAN

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mADmAN

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another way of putting wat ur mechanic means is that its as if u dont have enough gears... even when ur at 5th ull feel that u wanna upshift to another gear....

im sure at times when ur on fifth u feel as if ur on 3rd or 4th? itll be worse with 4.7... too close for 2.0
 

DeaconFrost

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DeaconFrost

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I think:

1. B20 got more torque.
2. Speedometer climb faster.
3. RPM climb faster.
4. Need to shift faster.

4.785 FD I heard complaints of "makan minyak", maybe because:

5. 5th gear cruising also RPM high.
6. RPM high = "makan minyak".
7. RPM high = noisy = want extra gear for silent cruising.
 

cad843

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cad843

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4.4 & 4.785 FD is an OEM one. 4.4 FD coming with original B16B fr EK9 while 4.785 FD coming with original B18cR fr ITR 98 spec S80, U can search around wats the differ between this 2 FD. But I prefer 4.4 FD for street type use. 4.785 FD give u more torque estimated 9% extra virtually... so ur rpm much lighter than 4.4. For city driving, 4.785 give u more torque so reduce gear changing but in h'way .. if u at 5th gear u will feel like there is another gear n off course fuel consumption higher than 4.4FD. But remember basic theory la ... more power = much higher fuel consumption

Another option is u play around with gear ratio, there a lot of aftermarket short gear ratio u can play with ... just standby $$$ onli. Try la search around ...

4.9 FD is after market one like MFactory etc ... to me 4.9 suitable for track not for street use

Gear ratio will determine whether u be in front or behind if side by side wif other car that same hp as ur car ... Remember .. the best bout honda vtec is not onli the engine but GB as well ... try play around but just prepare enough $$$ to be dump
 

peterj

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peterj

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4.4 & 4.785 FD is an OEM one. 4.4 FD coming with original B16B fr EK9 while 4.785 FD coming with original B18cR fr ITR 98 spec S80, U can search around wats the differ between this 2 FD. But I prefer 4.4 FD for street type use. 4.785 FD give u more torque estimated 9% extra virtually... so ur rpm much lighter than 4.4. For city driving, 4.785 give u more torque so reduce gear changing but in h'way .. if u at 5th gear u will feel like there is another gear n off course fuel consumption higher than 4.4FD. But remember basic theory la ... more power = much higher fuel consumption

Another option is u play around with gear ratio, there a lot of aftermarket short gear ratio u can play with ... just standby $$$ onli. Try la search around ...

4.9 FD is after market one like MFactory etc ... to me 4.9 suitable for track not for street use

Gear ratio will determine whether u be in front or behind if side by side wif other car that same hp as ur car ... Remember .. the best bout honda vtec is not onli the engine but GB as well ... try play around but just prepare enough $$$ to be dump
sorry i am a new honda owner,newbie,do correct me if i am wrong, from the info i dig on wiki and honda tech, S80 gear box is from ITR from 96 while 98 and after, they using N3E gearbox.. both are 4.785 FD but i heard that N3E gearbox are with longer 4th and 5th ratio which improve the cruising... is it?:nurse::nurse::biggrin::rolleyes:
 

mADmAN

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mADmAN

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sorry i am a new honda owner,newbie,do correct me if i am wrong, from the info i dig on wiki and honda tech, S80 gear box is from ITR from 96 while 98 and after, they using N3E gearbox.. both are 4.785 FD but i heard that N3E gearbox are with longer 4th and 5th ratio which improve the cruising... is it?:nurse::nurse::biggrin::rolleyes:
S80: 4.4FD 96 Spec

S80+N3E: 4.785FD 98 Spec

both specs are using the S80 gearbox...98spec has the addition of the N3E which i assume means the 4.7FD
 

peterj

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peterj

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S80: 4.4FD 96 Spec

S80+N3E: 4.785FD 98 Spec

both specs are using the S80 gearbox...98spec has the addition of the N3E which i assume means the 4.7FD
i am new in honda,lol:banghead:

---------- Post added at 10:07 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:54 PM ----------

bro madman,ur ride is eh5? hatch rite? btw, may i know what different between local eh and jdm eg? like chasis? no nid to include the interior stuff like seat different,dash different, catalytic converter or non,engine power lower .... i nid the main thing...tqvm..... and also bro, what is those number after our eh and eg? instead of differentiating hatchback or sedan and coupe.... chassis hardness different like mine is eh2 4 doors,some is eg5 4 doors, some is eh5,the higher the number the better?the stronger the chassis? i only know eg9 and eg6 got dohc vtec, others are sohc d15 or d16 vtec and non vtec... honda sifu pls teach me newbie:adore::adore::adore::adore::adore::adore::adore:
 

ddv_nk12

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ddv_nk12

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another way of putting wat ur mechanic means is that its as if u dont have enough gears... even when ur at 5th ull feel that u wanna upshift to another gear....

im sure at times when ur on fifth u feel as if ur on 3rd or 4th? itll be worse with 4.7... too close for 2.0
Seriously bro, even with 4.4, I feel there's a need for a 6th gear especially on the highway. Lol... When the time comes, I'll play with my GB since the synchro is already giving problems. I think it's better to build with aftermarket ratios and LSD rather then getting another 4.4 FD with LSD GB. I know it's gonna cost more but what say you?

4.4 & 4.785 FD is an OEM one. 4.4 FD coming with original B16B fr EK9 while 4.785 FD coming with original B18cR fr ITR 98 spec S80, U can search around wats the differ between this 2 FD. But I prefer 4.4 FD for street type use. 4.785 FD give u more torque estimated 9% extra virtually... so ur rpm much lighter than 4.4. For city driving, 4.785 give u more torque so reduce gear changing but in h'way .. if u at 5th gear u will feel like there is another gear n off course fuel consumption higher than 4.4FD. But remember basic theory la ... more power = much higher fuel consumption

Another option is u play around with gear ratio, there a lot of aftermarket short gear ratio u can play with ... just standby $$$ onli. Try la search around ...

4.9 FD is after market one like MFactory etc ... to me 4.9 suitable for track not for street use

Gear ratio will determine whether u be in front or behind if side by side wif other car that same hp as ur car ... Remember .. the best bout honda vtec is not onli the engine but GB as well ... try play around but just prepare enough $$$ to be dump
Good stuff here!!
By any chance, is there any after market ratios which are lower than 4.4?? Something that won't make me feel for the need for the 6th gear?
 

mADmAN

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mADmAN

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i am new in honda,lol:banghead:

---------- Post added at 10:07 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:54 PM ----------

bro madman,ur ride is eh5? hatch rite? btw, may i know what different between local eh and jdm eg? like chasis? no nid to include the interior stuff like seat different,dash different, catalytic converter or non,engine power lower .... i nid the main thing...tqvm..... and also bro, what is those number after our eh and eg? instead of differentiating hatchback or sedan and coupe.... chassis hardness different like mine is eh2 4 doors,some is eg5 4 doors, some is eh5,the higher the number the better?the stronger the chassis? i only know eg9 and eg6 got dohc vtec, others are sohc d15 or d16 vtec and non vtec... honda sifu pls teach me newbie:adore::adore::adore::adore::adore::adore::adore:
mine is EH4 if not mistaken...diff between local and jap chassis im not sure.

as for the numbers they signify wat engine, package etc that comes with the car.....i dunno wat diff EG4 n EG6 chassis has...other than wat i mentioned...

---------- Post added at 02:27 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 02:22 AM ----------

Seriously bro, even with 4.4, I feel there's a need for a 6th gear especially on the highway. Lol... When the time comes, I'll play with my GB since the synchro is already giving problems. I think it's better to build with aftermarket ratios and LSD rather then getting another 4.4 FD with LSD GB. I know it's gonna cost more but what say you?
most aftermarket ratios are close ratios... there arent many after market ratios that's "longer"...the only 1 that i know of thats long is spoon's 1st n 2nd ratios.

imho, if ur already on 4.4 with LSD, then there isnt really a need to do the gearbox... but the type R's helical LSD is supposed to be better than the non-type r LSDs (which i cant remember the type)


Good stuff here!!
By any chance, is there any after market ratios which are lower than 4.4?? Something that won't make me feel for the need for the 6th gear?
theres aftermarket 4.2 as well as 3.9 final drives iirc. though i personally would just leave it at 4.4. i think its the best all rounder. good for pickup as well as cruising....even for B20s :D
 

peterj

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peterj

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and all honda sifu, i wanna know why people tend to use after market ek 9 rear lower arm, and some use ek oem rear lower arm, it needed us to use ek absorber (fork type), what is the benifits beside style and colourful? more and more stable cause it come from type R?

and madman, for oem b16a from eg9 , with y1s gearbox ithink ,oem lsd, fuel consumption how? cause i sit on friends ef2 4 door, with b16a big vtec,type R cam, Skunk 2 retainer and spring, type R 4.4 with full lock lsd, fueling support like AFR,extractor, unkown ecu, the car pick up from 1st to 3rd gear almost side by side with my e4 wira 4wd last time, but the fuel rm30 of ron97 just made it 50-70km only.. damn high
 

mADmAN

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mADmAN

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and all honda sifu, i wanna know why people tend to use after market ek 9 rear lower arm, and some use ek oem rear lower arm, it needed us to use ek absorber (fork type), what is the benifits beside style and colourful? more and more stable cause it come from type R?

and madman, for oem b16a from eg9 , with y1s gearbox ithink ,oem lsd, fuel consumption how? cause i sit on friends ef2 4 door, with b16a big vtec,type R cam, Skunk 2 retainer and spring, type R 4.4 with full lock lsd, fueling support like AFR,extractor, unkown ecu, the car pick up from 1st to 3rd gear almost side by side with my e4 wira 4wd last time, but the fuel rm30 of ron97 just made it 50-70km only.. damn high
1L should be about 10km..mebbe more. at least thats wat i got last time. but mine was with YS1 gearbox.

if u are using EG and wanna use aftermarket Lower Control Arm (LCA) then yes have to use EK absorbers. benefits of the arms depends on the bushings.... brands like Blox, JASMA, Omni Power are known to have sucky bushings which tear in a matter of months... my own Blox bushings tore in about 6 months. but i got them replaced with custom Soft PU bushings by forumer BESIXTEEN.

the only good brands to get for LCA would be Function7 (the best brand for LCA but not available in malaysia unless order), Skunk2, Hardrace.

the only brands i know that has EG LCAs that u can still use EG absorbers would be Function7 and Blackworks Racing. as mentioned, F7 isnt available in malaysia... my mech has it though..wanna sell it for 1.4k. closest distributor for F7 is in Singapore. forgot the name of the company already.

anyway, instead of getting after market LCAs, i strongly suggest sticking to ur OEM LCA and replacing the busings with SuperPro or Energy Suspension or Hardrace. unless of course u want the bling bling la... i got mine coz at the time i havent done much research and wanted the bling bling heheheheh
 

peterj

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peterj

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1L should be about 10km..mebbe more. at least thats wat i got last time. but mine was with YS1 gearbox.

if u are using EG and wanna use aftermarket Lower Control Arm (LCA) then yes have to use EK absorbers. benefits of the arms depends on the bushings.... brands like Blox, JASMA, Omni Power are known to have sucky bushings which tear in a matter of months... my own Blox bushings tore in about 6 months. but i got them replaced with custom Soft PU bushings by forumer BESIXTEEN.

the only good brands to get for LCA would be Function7 (the best brand for LCA but not available in malaysia unless order), Skunk2, Hardrace.

the only brands i know that has EG LCAs that u can still use EG absorbers would be Function7 and Blackworks Racing. as mentioned, F7 isnt available in malaysia... my mech has it though..wanna sell it for 1.4k. closest distributor for F7 is in Singapore. forgot the name of the company already.

anyway, instead of getting after market LCAs, i strongly suggest sticking to ur OEM LCA and replacing the busings with SuperPro or Energy Suspension or Hardrace. unless of course u want the bling bling la... i got mine coz at the time i havent done much research and wanted the bling bling heheheheh
noted... good info, i am saving ontw to have b16a 1st,then turbo it... lol:wavey:
 

TOMEI-R

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TOMEI-R

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and all honda sifu, i wanna know why people tend to use after market ek 9 rear lower arm, and some use ek oem rear lower arm, it needed us to use ek absorber (fork type), what is the benifits beside style and colourful? more and more stable cause it come from type R?

and madman, for oem b16a from eg9 , with y1s gearbox ithink ,oem lsd, fuel consumption how? cause i sit on friends ef2 4 door, with b16a big vtec,type R cam, Skunk 2 retainer and spring, type R 4.4 with full lock lsd, fueling support like AFR,extractor, unkown ecu, the car pick up from 1st to 3rd gear almost side by side with my e4 wira 4wd last time, but the fuel rm30 of ron97 just made it 50-70km only.. damn high


What ever brand u get, make sure you get the original stuff and I mean ORIGINAL stuff from reputable dealers. There are just too many after market imitation branded items on the market right now. If you are budget consicous just get HardRace which are made in Taiwan. They are not expensive and their stuff works. If you have the budget then go for Skunk2, Spoon, Buddy Club etc. Just remember you dont want any suspension parts failing during hard cornering or during high speeds. IMNO those aluminium anodized arms are more towards bling bling factor and maybe save a bit of weight but the oem still would be the safest bet in case of breakage or it coming off the car.:rofl:

My B18C Type R with 4.785 fd gb with mods and Hondata gives me about ermm.... How do I put it..... Rm100 Ron97 will give me around 300kms roughly. That includes track usage and a bit of cruising around. Mind you my car spends most of its time in the garage. Not for daily use. So Im not complaining about the FC.
 
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peterj

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peterj

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The asr isnt a subframe replacement...its a brace...u add it on to ur current subframe...

As for the subframe tearing, as far as i know that only happens to civics due to the thin sheet metal used...especially to EKs it seems...even the EGs are suposedly more resistant to tear compared to EKs

Never heard of integras having the subframe tear issues, coz if not mistaken the subframe on integras are thicker n stronger
i am afraid of this problem to bro madman, from ur point of view, install those bling bling brace bar from asr something will more resist those tear or using UR rear lower arm bar will resist also?? cause nid to know this before upgrade rear anti roll bar , now i stick with stock 13mm ARB only cause scared of the tearing issue,i pan to upgrade UR ARB (18 or 19mm).......... since u know eg almost 18 years old and metal do have it's aging limit before fatigue......(or i am worried too much by learing too much engineering,lol :stupid::stupid:)..... i now have almost full UR bars except the REAR ARB, even the fender bar,when install, driver side already not so accurate in position , got run 0.5-1 cm... scare of fatigue chasis...
 

mADmAN

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mADmAN

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One of the first mods i did to my car was the ASR brace....but replica la..not ori...i installed it even before i saw the car. So yeah, id recommend it....

But if ur going for UR ARB, no need..the 19mm should still be ok for the eg....

Personally, i wouldnt bother with the UR. U can get the 23mm dc2r for cheaper...i used to have the UR n then sold it off after i upgraded to the dc2r..n it was a world of difference for me...car felt so much more planted on corners...but take note i also have the dc2r front anti roll bar.

Only downside of the dc2r arb is the fact that the subframe brace is a must....which kinda makes the whole arb upgrade slightly more expensive than the UR arb...and also its not as easy to get as the UR which u can get almost everywhere..so depends on how much u wanna spend oso...

The UR rear lower arm bar is not a brace...it wont stop ur subframe from tearing...
 

peterj

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peterj

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One of the first mods i did to my car was the ASR brace....but replica la..not ori...i installed it even before i saw the car. So yeah, id recommend it....

But if ur going for UR ARB, no need..the 19mm should still be ok for the eg....

Personally, i wouldnt bother with the UR. U can get the 23mm dc2r for cheaper...i used to have the UR n then sold it off after i upgraded to the dc2r..n it was a world of difference for me...car felt so much more planted on corners...but take note i also have the dc2r front anti roll bar.

Only downside of the dc2r arb is the fact that the subframe brace is a must....which kinda makes the whole arb upgrade slightly more expensive than the UR arb...and also its not as easy to get as the UR which u can get almost everywhere..so depends on how much u wanna spend oso...

The UR rear lower arm bar is not a brace...it wont stop ur subframe from tearing...
is it posible to have the UR bar and the brace together installed? since both stuff i saw are putting on the subframe where the lower arm is , i scare the bolt not enough long for both stuff......:banghead:

like that i also wanna use dc2r ARB lor:itsme::itsme::biggrin::biggrin:

btw,for rear,need the brace,front? the dc2r ARB just pnp without anything needed? will it too big and hit the firewall??:confused:

---------- Post added at 05:21 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 05:07 PM ----------

sifu madman, and also, if like that i think i am on wrong way already, cause i tot that asr also another bling bling effect:banghead::banghead: i dun have the asr brace but i got full UR except the antiroll bar:banghead::banghead::banghead:now i am desperate asking for ASR:banghead::banghead::banghead::bawling:
 

mADmAN

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mADmAN

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yes u can use the UR n brace together...thats wat i did last time...

front no need brace...direct plug n play...no problems at all