- Nov 1, 2005
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- 25
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What do you do what you can't afford a proper racing simulator from those name brand companies? In true Malaysian spirit, I decided to DIY one. This DIY took me 2 months to complete. Actual time working on it was 2 full days plus some time on and off working on the misc and aesthetic parts. Started end of August and just managed to finish it. For those who want to DIY it, you can PM me for details. I'll be happy to provide sketches of some design components like the adjustable arm for your reference. And if you think you have a better design, let me know and I will put it in my next build.
The sketch that started it all. Designed to give the user a more inclined seating position. I also try to make everything adjustable to fit users of all heights (and width). Turns out the pedals do not need to be adjustable as the seat can already move to and fro.
Frame is made of 50mmx25mm mild steel rectangular sections 1.2mm thick. The main frame is welded together but the other parts like the steering mount and seat are removable.
Test fitting seat angle. More support plates were welded to the frame after this picture was taken.
Seat test fitting, from another angle
Knobs for adjusting steering rake and reach.
Adjustable steering wheel angle. CNC plasma cutter was still under repair so had to cut the groove by jigsaw.
Welding everything together. This is a good example of a messy workplace.
Test fitting with seat, wheel and pedals.
After welding and test fitting. Ready to be painted.
Spray painting the frame black. This is the only item in my build that I regretted. Should have powder-coated it for a more lasting finish. Spray paint tend to chip off easily, especially around the parts that are adjustable and in contact with each other.
Halfcut condition. Seat is from a Subaru Impreza WRX STi Version5.
After an hour of scrubbing with a soft bristle brush and Dynamo washing liquid. The whole seat was wet and took 4 days to properly dry out.
Test run!
"Butt-kicker" diyed from a 12 inch subwoofer. Bolts straight to the frame of the sim. Provides strong vibrations and feedback for rumble strips, road roughness and contact with other cars. Adds another level of realism for racing sims. Once you have tried a "butt kicker" sim, you never want to go back to static sims. Google or Youtube "DIY Tactile Transducer" on how to complete this DIY.
This part is purely for aesthetic purposes only. Was going to order plastic caps to cover the holes at the end of the rectangular sections. But, why buy when you can DIY?
Sketch of GT logo in Google Sketchup.
Printing the GT logo out on the 3D printer. This model is a Solidoodle 3D printer. Cheapest 3D printer on the market now. Prints decently for the price you are paying. UP! 3D printer is also another economical printer.
Mass producing GT logos
Ready to be spray painted white
Sprayed white with black backing.
Black backing glued behind like this.
All done with black backing
GT logos to cover up all the gaping holes.
Red switch to deactivate vibrations.
More GT logos
And some more. Now, this is unmistakably a GT-themed race sim.
Cable management.
One of the objectives of this build is to eliminate messy cabling.
Cable routing to steering wheel
Added some aesthetic features like the front and back GT logo plate (still going with the GT theme)
And we're done!
