DC5 Advice

Massive_InfusioN

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Massive_InfusioN

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Jan 18, 2006
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So back to my question, is the genuine Helix good? Or Motul and other brands better?
Used helix ultra for my DC5 previously, not bad. However, my valve lifters slight tapping in the morning (not sure if it happens to other oil), engine is more silent and losses of oil when high revving is not that much. Used it for almost 8500km with 1 trackday then change it to Mobil 1. There was an occation where i topped up 1/4 of the 0.5 liter helix, which is very minimal.

Now using Mobil 1. Can feel very slight difference at first due to viscosity is lower than Helix Ultra, however its a 0W-40, my mechanic said it tends to evaporate / leak thru seals when high revving, but after one of the trackday, theres no loss at all... considering high revving at a very hot day & low viscosity oil.
 

hasukyo

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hasukyo

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saw 1 dc5 at subang yesterday, was driving another car, just curious who's the new owner?
WSF 99XX,coz it was owned by fitri last time who sold the car, would like to know how much u get for the ings gt wing? ori or replica?
 

hasukyo

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hasukyo

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lol..i've been looking for this GT wing but could not afford it, i can get original one since my bro is ings distributor, but super expensive and not worth it...more than 4k..

then yesterday saw my dream gt wing, but only can afford below 2k..if possible
 

NukeeZoid

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NukeeZoid

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I dont think they are that they have the guts to do so, as they are closely monitored. Further more u can report it if its fake and the penalty is totally not worth it for them to do it..:biggrin:
haha. well... either way... i'm never using Shell Helix ever after seeing all those fake labels in my friend's office. :biggrin::biggrin:
 

hasukyo

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hasukyo

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anyone here who using superpro bushing for their car? mind to share your input? cost and review perhaps? i know some is using it....please share..i'm thinking to install it
 

akuma

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akuma

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hasukyo,
i'm not too sure abt DC5Rs/FD2Rs but according 2 my track sifu who races an EG6,he warned me against using teflon/poly bushes like Superpro or Energy...reason being they r TOO stiff whc will upset ur suspensions' supposed geometry/movement.......hard rubber is d way 2 go...reputable tuners like Mugen & Spoon only uses hard rubber bushing 4 their race cars....n as per my sifu,dis hard rubber bushings r more comfortable compared w d poly/teflon type....
i think Hard Race has d items ur looking 4 ur car....n no lar..dis is not a promotion.just sharing wat i know..
cheers
 

khilside

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khilside

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anyone have experience with Mugen Rev R oils?

Jacky from JC recommended them to me over Motul 300V.

http://dp.image-gmkt.com/gd_detail/2010/03/27/16/20100327171118993037_800_0.JPG
Why dont you try HKS Super N/A.

---------- Post added at 06:16 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 05:56 PM ----------

Akuma is right. 'hard rubber' from Mugen contain less % of polyurethane. superpro has higher % of PU. dont go for teflon as it is too hard, hardest among PU and 'hard rubber'.

ive installed superpro for front lower arm only coz the original honda bushing can only stand for 2 + months (after i change the suspension sys). Handling is sharper, car is abit harsher on bumpy road. some people cannot stand it. a friend of mine change back to original bushing. worth of changing it.
 

afariq

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afariq

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Been using this for the past 2 oil change, so far so good. Will stick to this for the next one.
 
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hasukyo

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hasukyo

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hasukyo,
i'm not too sure abt DC5Rs/FD2Rs but according 2 my track sifu who races an EG6,he warned me against using teflon/poly bushes like Superpro or Energy...reason being they r TOO stiff whc will upset ur suspensions' supposed geometry/movement.......hard rubber is d way 2 go...reputable tuners like Mugen & Spoon only uses hard rubber bushing 4 their race cars....n as per my sifu,dis hard rubber bushings r more comfortable compared w d poly/teflon type....
i think Hard Race has d items ur looking 4 ur car....n no lar..dis is not a promotion.just sharing wat i know..
cheers
thanks akuma, hmm..then i might need to reconsider it again..coz actually my car already installed the hard rubber from mugen, installed it 2 years ago..but not much diff lol..
 

NukeeZoid

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NukeeZoid

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last time went to track with mugen rev oil..engine feel light and always want to rev up.but the price quite exp zzz.
price is roundabout the same as 300V.

its a premium oil, and most premiums cost roughly the same.

wonder who mugen is taking their oils from though, because i'm pretty sure its just "rebranded" from some other brand.

the good part is "Integra Type R" is listed on the packaging. +10 confidence points. :biggrin::biggrin:
 

supernova

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supernova

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thanks akuma, hmm..then i might need to reconsider it again..coz actually my car already installed the hard rubber from mugen, installed it 2 years ago..but not much diff lol..

stiff bushing does not affect handling, it is the natural substance fo the material that caused the problem.
PU being a sticky substance, causes the biggest handling problem by binding. during movement our suspension arm moving up and down the bushing suppose to allow twisting movement and being sticky, PU will bind and when forced to rotate, it iwll start wearing by grinding against the arms. thats why PU bushes always give out annoying "yik yik" sound. the sound not just annoying, it means your bushes is starting to wear. another problem of binding is that it will create a lifting effect insted of planting.

The problem with DC5 basic mcstruct set up is lack of front end feel or lack of feedback to driver.
The ultimate setup for DC5 / EP3 / ES is t installed offset front lower arm pillow ball bushing together with roll centre adjuster. The "offset" bush will increase castors that not just allow more outside wheel camber angle, but also increase steerign feel. RCA is neccessary to counter roll, as mcstruct setup does not allow high spring rate (unless single purpose race car), RCA will help to reduce roll.

As for the tie rod end problem, hardrace is currently R&D a up right tie rod end to solve the lowered car toe setting problem as well as ..............just wait for it to arrive and test it yourself.
 
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hasukyo

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hasukyo

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Feb 26, 2008
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stiff bushing does not affect handling, it is the natural substance fo the material that caused the problem.
PU being a sticky substance, causes the biggest handling problem by binding. during movement our suspension arm moving up and down the bushing suppose to allow twisting movement and being sticky, PU will bind and when forced to rotate, it iwll start wearing by grinding against the arms. thats why PU bushes always give out annoying "yik yik" sound. the sound not just annoying, it means your bushes is starting to wear. another problem of binding is that it will create a lifting effect insted of planting.

The problem with DC5 basic mcstruct set up is lack of front end feel or lack of feedback to driver.
The ultimate setup for DC5 / EP3 / ES is t installed offset front lower arm pillow ball bushing together with roll centre adjuster. The "offset" bush will increase castors that not just allow more outside wheel camber angle, but also increase steerign feel. RCA is neccessary to counter roll, as mcstruct setup does not allow high spring rate (unless single purpose race car), RCA will help to reduce roll.

As for the tie rod end problem, hardrace is currently R&D a up right tie rod end to solve the lowered car toe setting problem as well as ..............just wait for it to arrive and test it yourself.
thanks for the feedback bro, i see alot of track car is using pillowball bushing + RCA, since
pillowball is not suitable for street , coz it will also give u annoying sound ,
dats y i'm thinking if PU is the alternate solution. well, maybe i'll just get the tierod end..
when it's coming out anyway?