Converted Car Chassis. Is it worth it?

[RENESIS VIII]

hehe next time i show you something very interesting....hehehe

Show me via internet or in real when I visit PJ?

Its sad to see old gen bmw like e36 plonk in jdm engine. Having powerful NA engine is fun and for now, halfcut for e36 is quite cheap compare to jdm. I thought there is thread in zth v8 iinm plonk in e34 kut. not sure.

Im not sure, but for conti car there is no 25% rule for engine swapping? is it true?



I wonder what is it

Soon, NA charm will be popular again due to most performance cars going for turbo. The NA sound, high revs and response will make them stand out more than forced induction. My friend who owns a E36 plans to put in a SR20DET into his car. He wants to try that first until he is bored, then only he will go for 2JZ-GTE. His E36 is a 318i. I wonder can the chassis take the power from a heavily modded 2JZ-GTE or not.

 

[sweelt]

or his modded 2jz, too powerful until car not moving.
can keep 1st and 2nd gear in store.
must spend money d. launch control, electronics control....etc

 

[RENESIS VIII]

or his modded 2jz, too powerful until car not moving.
can keep 1st and 2nd gear in store.
must spend money d. launch control, electronics control....etc

Sorry don't understand? Whose 2JZ? Your friend with Crown or my friend who plans to swap the 2JZ later?

 

[sweelt]

ur friends plan to put 2jz in future....when tired of sr20det
my fren is take 1jz from bmw and put into crown.

 

[DanzEterna]

if 318i don't think can plonk in 2JZ cos JPJ only factor in 25% increase of engine CC,
therefore max he can go is 1JZ if he is lucky to get in endorsed.

 

[RENESIS VIII]

ur friends plan to put 2jz in future....when tired of sr20det
my fren is take 1jz from bmw and put into crown.

I told him better go for 2JZ or at least 1JZ straight away. Why waste money do SR20DET first then later only change...

if 318i don't think can plonk in 2JZ cos JPJ only factor in 25% increase of engine CC,
therefore max he can go is 1JZ if he is lucky to get in endorsed.

I thought there is this special form for those engines that exceeded 25%?

 

[sweelt]

above 25%, go putrajaya, not so easy.....

 

[lsm1991]

Show me via internet or in real when I visit PJ?



Soon, NA charm will be popular again due to most performance cars going for turbo. The NA sound, high revs and response will make them stand out more than forced induction. My friend who owns a E36 plans to put in a SR20DET into his car. He wants to try that first until he is bored, then only he will go for 2JZ-GTE. His E36 is a 318i. I wonder can the chassis take the power from a heavily modded 2JZ-GTE or not.

haha nolah internet je, somebody doing something abit interesting...

 

[RENESIS VIII]

haha nolah internet je, somebody doing something abit interesting...

Alright. I'll wait for your good news.

 

[Izso]

actually - it's more of a question of "why not?"

Proton non-C99 chassis is weaker but all you need is money and send the car to R3 for the boffins to do up the car per your requirement and legalize it. Satria R3 was spot welded, Neo Clubsport had rollcage, all legal.

 

[RENESIS VIII]

actually - it's more of a question of "why not?"

Proton non-C99 chassis is weaker but all you need is money and send the car to R3 for the boffins to do up the car per your requirement and legalize it. Satria R3 was spot welded, Neo Clubsport had rollcage, all legal.

Even after spot welding, will the chassis be strong enough? I remember one of your old quotes about a Putra with chassis cracks.

Your quote back then.

The Putra I was harping on about had slightly more than 300whp and went on track every other weekend. Sepang once had his bumper fall off supposedly because of his canards and it was producing too much front downforce it tore the plastic joints right off. After about half a year, the owner noticed a lot of strange squeeky noises and after some checking discovered cracks (very visible) along the front left absorber mounter area near the engine mounting and the front radiator chassis area there. Cracks. I never thought it'd be possible crack a chassis especially the reinforced area around the suspension mount.

 

[g4i8y0t]

I transplanted a B16a engine from JDM EK4 into my local model Civic EJ7 a few years back. From what I've read, for EK generation Civic the chassis production method and the material were the same. I forgot to bookmark the website, it's in Japanese, so I used the google translate function. However, for EK9 Type R, the thickness of some parts of the chassis are different. Seam weld were also used in certain section to increase body rigidity.

The engine that I transplanted has only about 60bhp more than the original one, and because the chassis is virtually identical to EK4 Civic, there should be no problem. But just to be sure, I installed some 3-point front strut brace, rear & fender braces, and some stiff rings (like those Spoon Rigid Collars) beneath.

 

[mADmAN]

Even after spot welding, will the chassis be strong enough? I remember one of your old quotes about a Putra with chassis cracks.

Your quote back then.

my ex-EF3 with B16A had a full chassis strengthening via spot welding done to it by the ex-owner. he ran the car extremely aggressively with super stiff suspension for about 2 years before selling it to me.

and when i owned it, i had even stiffer suspension in it. had almost nightly drag races etc.

when compared to my friend's original EF9, can feel that the chassis is stiffer on my car. even when half parking on a slope, opening and closing the door had no issue with mine as compared to my friend's...the issue i mean is the lock thingy and the hook not aligned when parked on a slope.

as for long lasting, hard to say as i also only owned that car for 2 years.. but basically no funny squeaks etc during ownership and aggressive use and ownership.

 

[RENESIS VIII]

I transplanted a B16a engine from JDM EK4 into my local model Civic EJ7 a few years back. From what I've read, for EK generation Civic the chassis production method and the material were the same. I forgot to bookmark the website, it's in Japanese, so I used the google translate function. However, for EK9 Type R, the thickness of some parts of the chassis are different. Seam weld were also used in certain section to increase body rigidity.

The engine that I transplanted has only about 60bhp more than the original one, and because the chassis is virtually identical to EK4 Civic, there should be no problem. But just to be sure, I installed some 3-point front strut brace, rear & fender braces, and some stiff rings (like those Spoon Rigid Collars) beneath.

That means even for EK4 Civic SiR, the chassis is same with the rest of the EK lineup including our local CKD chassis?

my ex-EF3 with B16A had a full chassis strengthening via spot welding done to it by the ex-owner. he ran the car extremely aggressively with super stiff suspension for about 2 years before selling it to me.

and when i owned it, i had even stiffer suspension in it. had almost nightly drag races etc.

when compared to my friend's original EF9, can feel that the chassis is stiffer on my car. even when half parking on a slope, opening and closing the door had no issue with mine as compared to my friend's...the issue i mean is the lock thingy and the hook not aligned when parked on a slope.

as for long lasting, hard to say as i also only owned that car for 2 years.. but basically no funny squeaks etc during ownership and aggressive use and ownership.

So, even with spot welding done, the chassis can never be as stiff as a chassis originally developed for performance...

The door thing could be a difference in quality between a top spec variant EF VS a lower spec EF.

How about your current EG hatch now? Did you compare it with an original EG6 chassis?

 

[peterj]

if dong full car spot weld will be much more stiffer than oem chassis, that one is race preparation for race dy