Converted Car Chassis. Is it worth it?

RENESIS VIII

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I'm sure most of you here have discussed or heard about chassis stiffness and rigidity in converted cars specifically for Proton chassis with high powered Mitsubishi engines like 4G63T. For Proton's case, many will agree that some of these chassis will not be able to take the stress from the engine and cracks might develop somewhere in the chassis later after continuous usage. So, we can say that these chassis developed for ordinary road cars may not be suitable to withstand the stress from high powered engines.

However, my question in this thread is not about Proton as they have been discussed over and over again. So, I want to ask, how about the chassis of other makes? Especially those from Honda Civic. Are those chassis like EG3, EG4, EK2, EK3, EJ, EH and all that good enough to handle engines like B18C Type R or maybe even K20A? How different are these performance Honda chassis like EG6, EG9, EK4, EK9 compared to these non performance chassis? Will these converted chassis eventually develop cracks or deformation after prolonged usage?

I'm not limiting this thread discussion for Honda cars only. How about others like maybe E100 Corolla 1.3 with 4A-GE 20 Valve engine?
 

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lsm1991

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just add on extra chassis welding & UR bars.
welding more points... illegal kan....... not that they check i guess?

far as strength goes....
beemer's m spec cars (least the old ones) also slightly beza

i think that if the gains are not so significant.... no issuelah, depends on the body. wira tu... from less than 100 to 280.... thats about 3x.... which is really a stupid amount of power :rofl:(stupid fun ofc)
 

sweelt

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if use for daily drive, should be sufficient with those add on mention by bro Danz.
If want to floor till red line all the time, apa pun koyak. Matter of time and materials quality.

Some pomen thought i swap 93t to race. Why ? swap engine must race ah ...hehehehe
I want to learn about engine hands on only, suspension setting, wiring, evoscan software, idling...etc
Can get parts easily too. Plenty resources about 4g engine in internet.
Instead of theory.

I dun need to buy avantador to learn about car mahhh. :smokin:
 
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hon_cs

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From business standpoint, manufacturer will try to save cost as much as possible. Example normal lancer and evo. I believe overall chassis will use the same steel grade except those area always get more stretch and cheapest solution is to put more welding with higher steel grade. That's why you can always read mitsu claimed newer evo more responsive rather than power improvement.

Another fact is manufacturer usually come out with a chassis cater for different engine displacement. A same chassis can be use from 1.3 to 2.0.
 

RENESIS VIII

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welding more points... illegal kan....... not that they check i guess?

far as strength goes....
beemer's m spec cars (least the old ones) also slightly beza

i think that if the gains are not so significant.... no issuelah, depends on the body. wira tu... from less than 100 to 280.... thats about 3x.... which is really a stupid amount of power :rofl:(stupid fun ofc)
Just weld as long as it is not apparent. If you are driving Proton or Perodua, better not because they are always victim of roadblock.

Well, there are also some old Civic EG 1.3 and some put in B18CR into them.

if use for daily drive, should be sufficient with those add on mention by bro Danz.
If want to floor till red line all the time, apa pun koyak. Matter of time and materials quality.

Some pomen thought i swap 93t to race. Why ? swap engine must race ah ...hehehehe
I want to learn about engine hands on only, suspension setting, wiring, evoscan software, idling...etc
Can get parts easily too. Plenty resources about 4g engine in internet.
Instead of theory.

I dun need to buy avantador to learn about car mahhh. :smokin:
In some cases, adding too many bars might make the car overly stiff and stress might transfer to weaker areas of the chassis. If the chassis is not built for performance in the first place, making it too stiff might not be a good idea.

You tell the foreman if you want to race, you put in 4G63T already. :biggrin:

From business standpoint, manufacturer will try to save cost as much as possible. Example normal lancer and evo. I believe overall chassis will use the same steel grade except those area always get more stretch and cheapest solution is to put more welding with higher steel grade. That's why you can always read mitsu claimed newer evo more responsive rather than power improvement.

Another fact is manufacturer usually come out with a chassis cater for different engine displacement. A same chassis can be use from 1.3 to 2.0.
Heard before about Evo X's CZ4A chassis being stiffer than Evo VII, VIII and IX's CT9A chassis.

So, does this mean that if one decides to use a particular car for long term usage and mods, it is better to get a good chassis to begin with rather than settling down for a chassis taken from ordinary road car?
 

ixeo

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850cc Kelisa also can whack K3VET 1.3L which is a 53% increase in cc. Hundreds if not thousands running around.
 

peterj

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for civic ek, if you know how to read a bit of chinese or japanese, the diagram said all the different with normal civic, extra bracing,seam welded chassis,thicker anti roll bar as well as thicker plate metal for chassis at specific point which is hard to be mimic with just feel chassis bar bracing.

ek9.jpg

and for lancer evolution,they keep on increasing the stiffness of the chassis ,from evo 123 gen to evo 456 gen mitsubishi claimed increased for 30%,evo 789 gen i dunno, but for evo 10 instead increase the spot weld,thicker metal and extra bracing,they are using new RISE structure which i believe will be increase more in the chassis strength as they mention the using of high tensile strength metal,go google it
 

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