Car Alternator or Battery Issue

parakey

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parakey

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Dear All,

Got a reply from said supplier of the voltage booster, they do not make anything for my model so i can scrap the item. Guess i need to go with bigger amp alternator to solve my power issue. We retuned the idling screw and now the engine idles at 800 rpm with A/C and radio on, voltage is at 13.6, however when the fan kicks in, it will rob the electricity to about 13.1 v. I can say the feel is better but we need another 0.5 v to ensure all systems get proper power supply.

Thanks,
Ken
Would a bigger battery help?
 

Mitevo7

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Mitevo7

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Those cheap jumper cable looks thick but if you look at the wire attached to clamp, the wires very thin only, meaning the rubber is thick making the whole wire looks thick.....lol
Doesn't seem like cheap jumper cable, since those used ground cables have transparent casing and i can see that the copper wire inside is thick, for the clamp wise, i am not so sure whether its up to your expectation, may be let me take another photo and put it here.

Thanks,
Ken
 

Mitevo7

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Mitevo7

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Should be worse since alternator not giving out enough charge......
Its the opposite, before changed to larger battery, all my electronics are shite, dimming lights, cluster lights up like Christmas tree, power window took ages to roll up (more than 10 seconds), engine not idling properly, A/C not work on time. After changed to larger battery, all works close to normal, except for windows still roll up slow (6 seconds), A/C works better but still sometimes missed its timing to release freon into the system.

Thanks,
Ken
 

Mitevo7

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Mitevo7

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If u slice cross the excess cable (if u have any left over), see what color of the cores. Can roughly see is copper plating or pure copper.
I use welding cable 300A pure copper during battery relocation. Price like double the copper plating cable. All about trying reduce the resistance from battery to everywhere.
This i need to check, probably the resistance is from the plating as it still looks like normal plating.

Thanks,
Ken
 

vr2turbo

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Its the opposite, before changed to larger battery, all my electronics are shite, dimming lights, cluster lights up like Christmas tree, power window took ages to roll up (more than 10 seconds), engine not idling properly, A/C not work on time. After changed to larger battery, all works close to normal, except for windows still roll up slow (6 seconds), A/C works better but still sometimes missed its timing to release freon into the system.

Thanks,
Ken
A bigger battery helps to feed enough power to your electrical system, but the alternator must be powerful enough to charge it back up. And in most cases the alternator usually takes over the running of the car electrical once it has started up
 
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parakey

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parakey

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A bigger battery helps to feed enough power to your electrical system, but the alternator must be powerful enough to charge it back up. And in most cases the alternator usually takes over the running of the car electrical once it has started up
His issue is at idling speeds. If at higher rpm, he doesn't have this issue. So alternator is able to provide enough charge to run the car & still have enough for charging his battery. If not so, the battery will be drained flat. A bigger battery will help during idle as the alternator at such speeds isnt capable to provide enough.
 

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His issue is at idling speeds. If at higher rpm, he doesn't have this issue. So alternator is able to provide enough charge to run the car & still have enough for charging his battery. If not so, the battery will be drained flat. A bigger battery will help during idle as the alternator at such speeds isnt capable to provide enough.
Actually at idling speed is not a problem, we don't idle all the time unless he drives a lot in jams. However his voltage drops further when his fans cuts in. As mentioned my hyundai charging at around 13.6v and VR 14.4v. Morning start my hyundai cranks much slower, and the crank is stronger in the afternoon after running for a while. VR crank is very strong....
 
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Mitevo7

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His issue is at idling speeds. If at higher rpm, he doesn't have this issue. So alternator is able to provide enough charge to run the car & still have enough for charging his battery. If not so, the battery will be drained flat. A bigger battery will help during idle as the alternator at such speeds isnt capable to provide enough.
Our suspicious is still with the alternator, does not provide enough power at lower RPM due to its lower amp. For ICE guys who installed powerful sound system, they do change to higher output alternator to compensate the lack of voltage during so-called idling rpm, especially for guys whose' battery is relocated to the trunk to accommodate larger battery.

Actually at idling speed is not a problem, we don't idle all the time unless he drives a lot in jams. However his voltage drops further when his fans cuts in. As mentioned my hyundai charging at around 13.6v and VR 14.4v. Morning start my hyundai cranks much slower, and the crank is stronger in the afternoon after running for a while. VR crank is very strong....
Both morning and afternoon, the 1JZ cranks very strong, i think mechanic and me can conclude that we need higher output alternator, either by purchasing a modified unit or we modify the existing one. Before adjusting the idling screw, at cold start the engine will not hang at 1K+ rpm for more than 5 seconds, and RPM stayed below 700 rpm. With the newly setup, the engine seems to be hanging on 1K+ rpm at cold start, and goes back to 800 rpm until the temperature reaches desirable range. In conclusion, adjusting the idling helps with the alternator to work better at idling, but its no sufficient.

Thanks,
Ken
 
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parakey

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parakey

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Actually at idling speed is not a problem, we don't idle all the time unless he drives a lot in jams. However his voltage drops further when his fans cuts in. As mentioned my hyundai charging at around 13.6v and VR 14.4v. Morning start my hyundai cranks much slower, and the crank is stronger in the afternoon after running for a while. VR crank is very strong....
Bro, he has idle issues. Alternator not supplying enough during idle. Like I said earlier, if alternator consistently undercharging, the battery simply goes flat very soon
 
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^pomen_GTR^

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Bro, he has idle issues. Alternator not supplying enough during idle. Like I said earlier, if alternator consistently undercharging, the battery simply goes flat very soon

simply need to drive faster :rofl: :driver:
 

^pomen_GTR^

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sweelt

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my wira cruising like 13.5V with aircon ON or OFF.
When idle, aircon compressor kick in it drop to 13.0V (rpm also drop) for short moment then regain 13.5V normal idle 900rpm.
May i ask , is it aircon compressor problem or "berat" ? Idle rpm take a dive to 600rpm momentarily.
 

parakey

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parakey

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my wira cruising like 13.5V with aircon ON or OFF.
When idle, aircon compressor kick in it drop to 13.0V (rpm also drop) for short moment then regain 13.5V normal idle 900rpm.
May i ask , is it aircon compressor problem or "berat" ? Idle rpm take a dive to 600rpm momentarily.
A car at idle is not at it's most powerful rpm. So when compressor kicks in, it places an additional load to the resting engine. Hence rpm drops momentarily till ISC takes effect and raises the rpm to compensate
 

vr2turbo

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my wira cruising like 13.5V with aircon ON or OFF.
When idle, aircon compressor kick in it drop to 13.0V (rpm also drop) for short moment then regain 13.5V normal idle 900rpm.
May i ask , is it aircon compressor problem or "berat" ? Idle rpm take a dive to 600rpm momentarily.
Yes, due to extra force required to turn the compressor, that is hwy need the FICD/IACV to increase the idling speed......
 

Mitevo7

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Hi All,

Since sweelt talked about A/C, just want to check, if alternator has not enough juice, will that affect the timing of A/C compressor kicked in? I found out that the A/C is slow to come in during slow traffic, where RPM constantly stays below 2k rpm. Once got on the free way and the A/C works just fine.

Thanks,
Ken
 

gunnerzz

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gunnerzz

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Hi All,

Since sweelt talked about A/C, just want to check, if alternator has not enough juice, will that affect the timing of A/C compressor kicked in? I found out that the A/C is slow to come in during slow traffic, where RPM constantly stays below 2k rpm. Once got on the free way and the A/C works just fine.

Thanks,
Ken
Not enough juice..
Worts if the compressor clutch is worn out as the compressor wont engage.
 

vr2turbo

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Hi All,

Since sweelt talked about A/C, just want to check, if alternator has not enough juice, will that affect the timing of A/C compressor kicked in? I found out that the A/C is slow to come in during slow traffic, where RPM constantly stays below 2k rpm. Once got on the free way and the A/C works just fine.

Thanks,
Ken
Have to check whether the clutch not engaging or your air con refrigerant is low. When refrigerant is low it does not cool fast either especially in slow traffic. Once you speed up the compressor turning fast so the refrigerant works faster and at the same time at faster speed the condenser gets cool faster also.....
 

gunnerzz

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Have to check whether the clutch not engaging or your air con refrigerant is low. When refrigerant is low it does not cool fast either especially in slow traffic. Once you speed up the compressor turning fast so the refrigerant works faster and at the same time at faster speed the condenser gets cool faster also.....
More evident in smaller engine with small compressor ie kelisa, kenari, kancil. Revving between 1500-1800 rpm during stationary will improve cooling which can be felt.

Some ac system wont engage the compressor at all when ut detecs low refrigerant.

My personal exp with waja that has worn out compressor clutch is it wont engage during jam. Once i rev above 2k rpm it will engage. temporary repair is modding the clutch which help for about 6 month before replacing the compressor.

anyway, i suggest to tackel the current issue first.i bet it has something to do with it.
 

vr2turbo

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More evident in smaller engine with small compressor ie kelisa, kenari, kancil. Revving between 1500-1800 rpm during stationary will improve cooling which can be felt.

Some ac system wont engage the compressor at all when ut detecs low refrigerant.

My personal exp with waja that has worn out compressor clutch is it wont engage during jam. Once i rev above 2k rpm it will engage. temporary repair is modding the clutch which help for about 6 month before replacing the compressor.

anyway, i suggest to tackel the current issue first.i bet it has something to do with it.
Yup, there is a sensor, usually at the receiver dryer. This to help prevent compressor damage.....
 

^pomen_GTR^

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or simply the compressor itself already worn out..


where it doesnt have sufficient seal to compress and pump the refrigerant at low rpm.. hence it only good while moving at higher rpm...


another cause is the ac fan speed at condenser is lower than it should be...so the gas pressure is too high and too hot and not working efficiently as it should be...
 

Mitevo7

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Mitevo7

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Not enough juice..
Worts if the compressor clutch is worn out as the compressor wont engage.
That's my suspicions but the clutch seems fine but i don't deny that the engine accessories have certain age on it. Will get it check out

Thanks,
Ken
 

Mitevo7

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Have to check whether the clutch not engaging or your air con refrigerant is low. When refrigerant is low it does not cool fast either especially in slow traffic. Once you speed up the compressor turning fast so the refrigerant works faster and at the same time at faster speed the condenser gets cool faster also.....
I think i will start from checking the refrigerant pressure first, easiest and cheapest to rectify the issues before i move on to the larger problem.

Thanks,
Ken
 

skokoman

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I had similar problems with my car ( another model) , guy in service told me, that this is alternator problems. I had to buy another alternator on boodmo.com . Good , that problem solved after that. I was afraid that I was wasting my money.
 
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Mitevo7

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I had similar problems with my car ( another model) , guy in service told me, that this is alternator problems. I had to buy another alternator. Good , that problem solved after that. I was afraid that I was wasting my money.
Strangely enough, when i was using AC at level 3 fan speed, the A/C works just fine, the A/C slow working happens at level 1 and 2 fan speed. Guess i just need to crank up the fan speed at 3 and drive it for few weeks before do anything.

Thanks,
Ken
 

gunnerzz

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Strangely enough, when i was using AC at level 3 fan speed, the A/C works just fine, the A/C slow working happens at level 1 and 2 fan speed. Guess i just need to crank up the fan speed at 3 and drive it for few weeks before do anything.

Thanks,
Ken
My BLM sometimes wont run at all if i put to fan speed 3 or 4. But this is due to that speed is rarely used almost to the point of never used and most probably the contact point in the switch is corroded or not contacting properly.

Got one time the connector on the circuit board in the aircond control panel is broken and i had so improvise by soldering wire directly to the board, i had to dismantle the blower fan speed coz its in the way. After reinstall, need to wiggle the switch when using speed 2 or 3 if the aircond refuses to switch on..Now everythin is working fine.
 

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Strangely enough, when i was using AC at level 3 fan speed, the A/C works just fine, the A/C slow working happens at level 1 and 2 fan speed. Guess i just need to crank up the fan speed at 3 and drive it for few weeks before do anything.

Thanks,
Ken
That is interesting, because the fan switch when on, just activate the compressor, so is funny you say run better at higher fan speed. Maybe higher fan speed you feel the cool air so think is running better?
 

Mitevo7

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That is interesting, because the fan switch when on, just activate the compressor, so is funny you say run better at higher fan speed. Maybe higher fan speed you feel the cool air so think is running better?
Hi,

Not quite, when on speed 3, i can hear the compressor working like on time before the freon ran out. Like i said the timing is accurate when the compressor kicks in. According to the aircond guy who modded the a/c system of my E46, the timing can be adjusted somehow, though i don't know how is it being adjusted?

Thanks,
Ken
 

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Hi,

Not quite, when on speed 3, i can hear the compressor working like on time before the freon ran out. Like i said the timing is accurate when the compressor kicks in. According to the aircond guy who modded the a/c system of my E46, the timing can be adjusted somehow, though i don't know how is it being adjusted?

Thanks,
Ken
That timing thing is something new. I only know there is air con switch and fan switch. Both need to be on the activate the air con system. Fan on, air con off get fan air only. Anyway get yours checked and inform us what was wrong, need new input......:driver:
 

Mitevo7

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That timing thing is something new. I only know there is air con switch and fan switch. Both need to be on the activate the air con system. Fan on, air con off get fan air only. Anyway get yours checked and inform us what was wrong, need new input......:driver:
Dude's finally got back to me, he is referring to the thermostat settings, too high, the compressor won't work, too low, the compressor work's too damn much and burn out the clutch. My situation now may due to slightly high thermostat settings.

Anyone can back this statement up?

Thanks,
Ken
 

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Dude's finally got back to me, he is referring to the thermostat settings, too high, the compressor won't work, too low, the compressor work's too damn much and burn out the clutch. My situation now may due to slightly high thermostat settings.

Anyone can back this statement up?

Thanks,
Ken
Thermostat then correct, but even if low or high setting, the moment the car starts, compressor should engage because have not reach the settings yet. Hotter setting it will cut off faster, maximum cold setting then it will work most of the time
 

Mitevo7

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Thermostat then correct, but even if low or high setting, the moment the car starts, compressor should engage because have not reach the settings yet. Hotter setting it will cut off faster, maximum cold setting then it will work most of the time
Then i will ask them to adjust slightly colder settings, normally i like drive with 2 speed fan only at 20 degrees.

Thanks,
Ken
 

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I know this thread is already for quite some time. just looking for existing thread to ask about maintenance free battery (so called dry cell battery).

recently i see in facebook a mechanic share that maintenance free battery actually has the water inside. just peel off the sticker on top, use coin to open the + cap, and refill the water inside. this will make battery last longer, some said up to 4 years.

i know the part that even maintenance free battery has water inside, but topping it up, never think of doing it. so what the difference between maintenance free and not? is it just simply maintenance free one use better electrodes/material inside?

please share your experience/thoughts. thanks...
 

Mitevo7

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I know this thread is already for quite some time. just looking for existing thread to ask about maintenance free battery (so called dry cell battery).

recently i see in facebook a mechanic share that maintenance free battery actually has the water inside. just peel off the sticker on top, use coin to open the + cap, and refill the water inside. this will make battery last longer, some said up to 4 years.

i know the part that even maintenance free battery has water inside, but topping it up, never think of doing it. so what the difference between maintenance free and not? is it just simply maintenance free one use better electrodes/material inside?

please share your experience/thoughts. thanks...
Dry cell car battery has "lead" and rods in it to generate electricity. Maintenance free battery generally do not require any maintenance done to it, just occasionally check and ensure the power indicator is green at all time and no visible leaks from the battery. Battery life also depends on your car's electrical charging system (alternator), grounding and stability of the overall electricity supplies to your car's accessories. It's no rocket science, all batteries need to be replaced in between 2-3 years depending on how you use the car.

Thank,
Ken
 

vr2turbo

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I know this thread is already for quite some time. just looking for existing thread to ask about maintenance free battery (so called dry cell battery).

recently i see in facebook a mechanic share that maintenance free battery actually has the water inside. just peel off the sticker on top, use coin to open the + cap, and refill the water inside. this will make battery last longer, some said up to 4 years.

i know the part that even maintenance free battery has water inside, but topping it up, never think of doing it. so what the difference between maintenance free and not? is it just simply maintenance free one use better electrodes/material inside?

please share your experience/thoughts. thanks...
Basically the batteries are the same, only MF battery have a different top. According to what I read, the system trap and condense the water vapor, therefore need less maintenance.However it still need ventilation, so will still loose some water. I have switch back to non MF battery since I find they last about the same time. If your batteries are not over charged, even non MF battery don't need to add water. What I find is usually at the end of it's life, it loose more water.
Another thing is to heat shield your battery for longer life....
 

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Basically the batteries are the same, only MF battery have a different top. According to what I read, the system trap and condense the water vapor, therefore need less maintenance.However it still need ventilation, so will still loose some water. I have switch back to non MF battery since I find they last about the same time. If your batteries are not over charged, even non MF battery don't need to add water. What I find is usually at the end of it's life, it loose more water.
Another thing is to heat shield your battery for longer life....
Heat shield meaning keeping away excessive heat to the battery?
 

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Heat shield meaning keeping away excessive heat to the battery?
Yup, like some the battery are place right behind the radiator fan, as in my Chery SUV. My Mitsu one at the side so one piece of aluminum board can do the trick. Chery one I cover all round.....lol
 

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upload_2019-5-23_13-51-28.jpeg

Shield L shape corner to corner. This battery dated 1/2014, upon checking was changed in 6/2017, so lasted 3 and a half years. Currently still running on the changed one so is 2 years already....

upload_2019-5-23_13-51-50.jpeg

Fan blow hot air directly at the battery
 

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Yup, like some the battery are place right behind the radiator fan, as in my Chery SUV. My Mitsu one at the side so one piece of aluminum board can do the trick. Chery one I cover all round.....lol
ok bro, noted... will do the same too! thanks for the tips