Do in stages. Get the stroker kit fitted and enjoy the additional oomph, because the feel won't last long before you want more. Then probably can BOT from there......but i plan to go with 1.6L stoker kits conversion......just watch on youtube....look really fast.. :vroam
I've heard it will fry your ecu or the throttle body computer because it keeps interfering the signals.flarery : save yourself from the trouble of working on an automatic 1.3L. Even if you made it pop 130hp, it will guzzle gas like a 240 Volvo and already at 50% of its life duration. By the time : you can only shred the weight of the car.
or cheaper : buy yourself a throttle controller to make it a little more responsive to the torque. proton's drive by wire system generally the main reason the performance sucks. And second : the punch CVT gearbox. the laziest gearbox I've ever met. Literally you want to downshift to overtake, you have to 'punch' it with high revs.
People see rubbish I see gem...Hohoho...i sense a top secret mod developement in process.....
on the 1.3 engine,i was expecting an improve of performance when using ron97 as its using high comp piston.what surprise me is that the performance is the same with ron95.
Not test want to build something out of it.As a test mule for future mods?
Beside what taikor gunners has mentioned. This is just my idea.can someone provide me roughly cost for this type engine conversion??
saga blm 1.6 crankshaft = RM???
saga blm 1.6 conrod = RM???
bolt on turbo kits = RM3.5k
anymore??
Now also you have that engine, why not straight away proceed in building it?People see rubbish I see gem...
Not test want to build something out of it.
Beside what taikor gunners has mentioned. This is just my idea.
If you want to BOT your engine. Get the CFE block. The block is slightly different from NA block it is more sturdy and the water jackets are more IINM. dump in the 1.6 rods or if can get aftermarket rods which are stronger couple with 1.6 piston. Send the crankshaft for hardening process, fully balance it.
Or just get a halfcut CPS and swap it in...but STILL THE AT BOX HAVE TO GO!!!!
Actually maybe many don't know the 1.3 engine is very good at producing power. but you need patience and know how to extract that power out. Dyno proven (on Dyno Dynamics) with light mods...the 1.3 can output 95-97whp on a MT....I'm not joking ya....this figure is achievable with stock cams, stock ECU, stock injector, stock fuel pump....
Not just the water jackets, the oil squirter as well to aid piston lubrication. I think. Or I got confused with other engines ahah.People see rubbish I see gem...
Not test want to build something out of it.
Beside what taikor gunners has mentioned. This is just my idea.
If you want to BOT your engine. Get the CFE block. The block is slightly different from NA block it is more sturdy and the water jackets are more IINM. dump in the 1.6 rods or if can get aftermarket rods which are stronger couple with 1.6 piston. Send the crankshaft for hardening process, fully balance it.
Or just get a halfcut CPS and swap it in...but STILL THE AT BOX HAVE TO GO!!!!
Actually maybe many don't know the 1.3 engine is very good at producing power. but you need patience and know how to extract that power out. Dyno proven (on Dyno Dynamics) with light mods...the 1.3 can output 95-97whp on a MT....I'm not joking ya....this figure is achievable with stock cams, stock ECU, stock injector, stock fuel pump....
Oh yes u can find cfe block for sale.not sure if its from halfcut as its only the block.Now also you have that engine, why not straight away proceed in building it?
CFE still new, so fast got halfcut? Using CFE block and internals is almost like swapping to CFE instead of BOT 1.3.
Maybe it is a spare part from Proton itself?Oh yes u can find cfe block for sale.not sure if its from halfcut as its only the block.
Piston oso easy to find esp online.
cant tell as its being sold by an eg company.Maybe it is a spare part from Proton itself?
Not sure about the water jacket part.cant tell as its being sold by an eg company.
if the water jacket is different,does the normal 1.6 head will fit?
that is less 1hp from their claimed figure.People see rubbish I see gem...
Not test want to build something out of it.
Beside what taikor gunners has mentioned. This is just my idea.
If you want to BOT your engine. Get the CFE block. The block is slightly different from NA block it is more sturdy and the water jackets are more IINM. dump in the 1.6 rods or if can get aftermarket rods which are stronger couple with 1.6 piston. Send the crankshaft for hardening process, fully balance it.
Or just get a halfcut CPS and swap it in...but STILL THE AT BOX HAVE TO GO!!!!
Actually maybe many don't know the 1.3 engine is very good at producing power. but you need patience and know how to extract that power out. Dyno proven (on Dyno Dynamics) with light mods...the 1.3 can output 95-97whp on a MT....I'm not joking ya....this figure is achievable with stock cams, stock ECU, stock injector, stock fuel pump....
That is wheel horsepower as mentioned earlier by Titanrev... Manufacturers usually claim figures at the crank not on wheel... If it is 95-97hp on wheel, then it should be even more at crank.that is less 1hp from their claimed figure.
so proton dun play2 abt the power figure then.
minor mod will see it in cps territory.
i never take the cps as powerful enough on the neo,only the low end is more eager than 1.3 iafm.
on higher rev,i prefer my 1.3 iafm.