B20-CRV VTEC - Why it Blows.....

shiroitenshi

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shiroitenshi

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Apr 18, 2006
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so the limit for this setup is 8000rpm compared to standard can stand 9000rpm rite
but i think standard also canot tahan if vtec all the way kl to ipoh, am i rite:hmmmm:
can, but the thing is, b-series is a dated engine, valve guide, cam journals, etc. all also worn already. Anything can happen.

but actually can tahan vtec for quite long. look at the cars in MSS super sixteen la.. all vtec most of the time. Not many blow right? in the recent years, blowing engines also even less now.
 

laut

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laut

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can, but the thing is, b-series is a dated engine, valve guide, cam journals, etc. all also worn already. Anything can happen.

but actually can tahan vtec for quite long. look at the cars in MSS super sixteen la.. all vtec most of the time. Not many blow right? in the recent years, blowing engines also even less now.
so u mean
the b20b one is not reliable as stock b16 or b18c la
while those can vtec for longer time, but not the b20b la
 

shiroitenshi

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shiroitenshi

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so u mean
the b20b one is not reliable as stock b16 or b18c la
while those can vtec for longer time, but not the b20b la
a lot of B20b fail than B16A, whether due to design or abuse, who knows?

can't say for sure, because haven't seen a B20B lose compression from excessive use yet.. either still running, or hancur already... no in between.
 

laut

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laut

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a lot of B20b fail than B16A, whether due to design or abuse, who knows?

can't say for sure, because haven't seen a B20B lose compression from excessive use yet.. either still running, or hancur already... no in between.
so by your opinion
if this setup was going to be daily driven
not so daily la, since i go to work by bike
maybe around 3-4 times per week use
how reliable it should be, same as stock b16 or b18?
in terms of maintenance?in the long run?
actually this setup can produce how many HP
sorry noob bout this conversion:adore:

can i know what is the cost to change back to b18c
just need to change block and head rite:hmmmm:
 

shiroitenshi

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shiroitenshi

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so by your opinion
if this setup was going to be daily driven
not so daily la, since i go to work by bike
maybe around 3-4 times per week use
how reliable it should be, same as stock b16 or b18?
in terms of maintenance?in the long run?
actually this setup can produce how many HP
sorry noob bout this conversion:adore:

can i know what is the cost to change back to b18c
just need to change block and head rite:hmmmm:
depends on the mods done, sometimes the combustion chamber will be opened a bit to accomodate bigger piston, so it's not a good choice anymore to swap back to a b18 block.

B20B, you need to change the piston to get more power out of it, the stock piston usable, but power is not good at all. Buy block, make VTEC line, Rebore, block guard etc. you're looking at 4-6K plus workmanship depending on how many little things you put on.. water pump, oil pump, head gasket, head bolts etc. can even go up to 10K+ if you start talking stroker kits.

If you don't plan to rempit, B20B stock engine also quite a good daily driver. won't be as fast as B16A or B20Bvtec, but you won't feel car lacking in torque at lower RPM.

As for reliability, dunno how you drive, so can't say.
 

laut

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laut

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depends on the mods done, sometimes the combustion chamber will be opened a bit to accomodate bigger piston, so it's not a good choice anymore to swap back to a b18 block.

B20B, you need to change the piston to get more power out of it, the stock piston usable, but power is not good at all. Buy block, make VTEC line, Rebore, block guard etc. you're looking at 4-6K plus workmanship depending on how many little things you put on.. water pump, oil pump, head gasket, head bolts etc. can even go up to 10K+ if you start talking stroker kits.

If you don't plan to rempit, B20B stock engine also quite a good daily driver. won't be as fast as B16A or B20Bvtec, but you won't feel car lacking in torque at lower RPM.

As for reliability, dunno how you drive, so can't say.
By the way bro,
i'm not actually making an engine from a scratch
currently i was interested in this car, which oredi transplant from b18c to b20b block and b16a head
so originally this is oredi vtec engine, just change head and block
from what i understand, this setup is good at low end torque, and a little bit more on HP but need to sacrifice on the high rpm, due to the block cannot stand higher compression
so how bout reliability, is that as long as i dont langgar pantang high rpm
everything should be ok, is that:hmmmm:
by the way, the current owner really take good care of the engine, like changing the oil every 5k km eventhough he used sync type
he says this setup are kinda 'manja' one:biggrin:

so other than that
any other issue like frequent wear and tear parts comparing to stock one
for stock engine, is there any restrictions involved
 

shiroitenshi

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shiroitenshi

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Normal stuff. most earlier B series also feeling the age already, so expect some electronics to fail, but this cannot be predicted. It either happens or it doesn't.

Engine wise, Timing belt every 60,000Km depending on the cams used. if very standard cam, can even last 100,000K, but would need visual check to ensure it's still good.

oil pump could be leaking, or the water pump.
Those are maintainance items, although for oil pump case, it's usually just the crank seal.

Distributor could give out.. or not.. this cannot be predicted as well.

Radiator flushing, this is something most people overlook, but if you don't want to have overheating problems, it's something to be done yearly. it's the only way to keep the internals clean.. use filtered water + coolant to prevent sediment buildup in the engine water jackets.

Get the valve clearances checked. They might be okay, or they might not be. It could save some expensive repairs in the long run.

If you don't rev the shit out of it, it should last for quite a while. I don't think there's any other pantang other than that, unless if you don't know that engaging vtec while the engine is cold is bad. I think that's all of it.. I could have missed something, so maybe the other forummers can chime in.
 

laut

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laut

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Aug 21, 2006
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Normal stuff. most earlier B series also feeling the age already, so expect some electronics to fail, but this cannot be predicted. It either happens or it doesn't.

Engine wise, Timing belt every 60,000Km depending on the cams used. if very standard cam, can even last 100,000K, but would need visual check to ensure it's still good.

oil pump could be leaking, or the water pump.
Those are maintainance items, although for oil pump case, it's usually just the crank seal.

Distributor could give out.. or not.. this cannot be predicted as well.

Radiator flushing, this is something most people overlook, but if you don't want to have overheating problems, it's something to be done yearly. it's the only way to keep the internals clean.. use filtered water + coolant to prevent sediment buildup in the engine water jackets.

Get the valve clearances checked. They might be okay, or they might not be. It could save some expensive repairs in the long run.

If you don't rev the shit out of it, it should last for quite a while. I don't think there's any other pantang other than that, unless if you don't know that engaging vtec while the engine is cold is bad. I think that's all of it.. I could have missed something, so maybe the other forummers can chime in.
Thanks bro really guide me a lot any sifu wants to give a comment :)
 

laut

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laut

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from what i understand, this setup is good at low end torque, and a little bit more on HP but need to sacrifice on the high rpm, due to the block cannot stand higher compression
by the way
on what i said above
is it prove to be true:rolleyes:
 

saintambrose

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saintambrose

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Since you all talking bout engine blow, i wanna ask something too, hope u all will answer me.

i am using b16a, but then got white smoke come out and my engine oil always hilang. At first tot it was onli top gasket overhaul will do. But found to be one my piston was loose. Was told that the ring was worn out. (i dunno why cant just change the ring). My mech give me 2 option , to change another enginer kosong or to repair by changing the piston.
I had choosed to change the piston but was told that cant use back the same piston piston size(81mm), need to use sligthly bigger piston, was that true? So he used the type R piston which is 81.25mm. and the compression is also sligthly higher rite?? So what else do i need to mod or take care of using this piston. my mech say just bore the engine to fit the piston will do, no other setting or mod needed(btw my b16a is standard).also does this type-r piston give me more power too?? and what all ur comment on this type-r piston on b16a?? is this common to do?

btw what do u mean by valve clearances

TY
 

shiroitenshi

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shiroitenshi

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Apr 18, 2006
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Since you all talking bout engine blow, i wanna ask something too, hope u all will answer me.

i am using b16a, but then got white smoke come out and my engine oil always hilang. At first tot it was onli top gasket overhaul will do. But found to be one my piston was loose. Was told that the ring was worn out. (i dunno why cant just change the ring). My mech give me 2 option , to change another enginer kosong or to repair by changing the piston.
I had choosed to change the piston but was told that cant use back the same piston piston size(81mm), need to use sligthly bigger piston, was that true? So he used the type R piston which is 81.25mm. and the compression is also sligthly higher rite?? So what else do i need to mod or take care of using this piston. my mech say just bore the engine to fit the piston will do, no other setting or mod needed(btw my b16a is standard).also does this type-r piston give me more power too?? and what all ur comment on this type-r piston on b16a?? is this common to do?

btw what do u mean by valve clearances

TY
White smoke + missing engine oil could be gasket/valve seals, but due to the PCV setup, oil loss is always common in B series engines, it's just a matter of how much.

81.25mm is considered an oversized piston. I think P30 (stock B16a) pistons also available, but perhaps your mech chose those pistons because they give more compression, and has the coating at the skirts. (note that Type R pistons have coated skirts)

Due to the flexibility of the original honda ECU, (esp. the P30 with the knock board), you can run just fine even with the added compression. But if you have at the very least an adjustable fuel regulator, it's good to bump it up from the B16A stock pressure of 2.0(2.5 without vac reference) by adding +0.2-0.5 bar to the stock pressure.

additional note:
BTW, I notice some mechs don't short the diagnostic plug when setting timing. It's been common to short the diagnostic plug to lock the timing to 16, which removes the air&water temp compensation. Without doing that, the timing is floating, and hard to get right. check & set today, 16, tommorrow it's another number like 14-18. <source: honda workshop manual>
 
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