marv3
Known Member
Depend on cars. Not all has a intake place at the bonnet. Like mine, is just a box in the engine bay. So i have to DIY a hose to the bottom of the headlights. So the air it sucks is not from the engine bay.....
Air filter
- Thread starter Raymondanthony
- Start date
Don't use stainless steel mesh type filter coz it basically would not filter much at all! Even foam type filter also not so good in filtering. Better use the cloth or paper type filters.
If normal use then yes, cloth and paper filters are better, but if want high performance they need filter with larger opening but then filtering for sure is less....
Not really. The test I've read was comparing various popular filters. They compared K&N washable, APEXi dry cloth, HKS foam, Blitz metal, and an original paper filter. The result was the APEXi provided the best filtering AND surprisingly also matching the rest in terms of power gains over the original filter! K&N came 2nd providing about the same power gain but just slightly more dirt and oil penetration. HKS next with pretty dirty result, then the Blitz was like very dirty and both these filters also surprisingly did not provide additional power over the APEXi or K&N! So in summary using the metal and foam filter is not recommended coz nothing special in terms of power gain yet the filtration were bad.If normal use then yes, cloth and paper filters are better, but if want high performance they need filter with larger opening but then filtering for sure is less....
I saw that test. But the test bed was dated. These days cars have MAF/MAP and adjust based on the amount of O2 and airflow, etc. I've personally tried a few filters and methods :
1. Drop in K&N : normal filter, serviceable but the oiling was tricky. Too much and it'll clog the sensors with oil. Kena a few times before. Performance was better than stock paper but not much. Could just feel less restriction when revving low to mid-high.
2. Drop in metal mesh : mid to high worked better compared to stock paper filter. Free-er to rev in that range and more responsive. But it only filtered out reasonably large stones and leaves. Small dust particles and mud still went through. EO got dirty real fast and kept constantly needing to clean dust from the TB.
3. Apexi Open pod with insulated air ram and CAI hose directing from the front bumper (no heat shield) : This was pretty interesting, lots of revs but no power gain at all. Very loud noises and the high rev range was very responsive but heavy loss of low end torque.
4. Apexi open pod inside stock airbox and stock everything. Original U-snorkel removed so air in bumper was going upwards directly into the airbox. : Loud noises, mid to high rev range was good but still some loss in low end torque.
5. Stock everything except original drop in filter was cut away leaving only the frame and the Apexi open pod was connected to the end of the U-snorkel in the bumper : This setup worked great. Improvement across the rev range and no loud induction noise. Problem was the pod got dirty verrrrrrrrrry fast. Accessing it was easy for me though.
6. Custom piping from the intake all the way down to the bumper (full straight piping and insulated) connected to the Apexi open pod : This worked even better than stock. The setup was flimsy cuz the piping was only held up by cable ties and the clamp at the manifold. Improvements across the whole rev range.
8. No air filter and direct from CAI into the manifold : This was stupid. Loud and no power gain whatsoever but the revs were so light but didn't translate into any usable power. It would rev to kingdom come without any restrictions though, so that was good for high end revving.
All tested in my wira with front bumper that had a hole with a velocity stack type hole directing directly at the u-snorkel / apexi open pod, similar to M3 design. Hehehe.. yeah right. Anyway, worth noting car was not stock. So for it to adjust to the extra air, it did produce some notable differences.
All these tests proved that there were no improvements in power, just shifting the usable torque / powerband and that the stock setup isn't that bad. Also it helped me figure out that if your car isn't modified for that much air, it won't make much of a difference. So morale of the story is mod your car.
---------- Post added at 08:10 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:03 AM ----------
Sh*t... I re-read what I typed and even I'm confused. Hope you guys understood all that crap.
No wonder racers take out air filter in racing, all high end revving.
Power is from displacement, adding air or fuel won't not increase the engine power, unless the displacement is bigger like forced induction.
I agree on the shift or torque range. Long ago I tried out on my Accord, that time old model on carb. Normal filter and filter box, good low end but high end suffers. Can feel when exit into highway takes longer to bring up the speed. Then use knn without the filter box, low end sluggish, but exiting into highway, can feel the speed takes off faster....
Power is from displacement, adding air or fuel won't not increase the engine power, unless the displacement is bigger like forced induction.
I agree on the shift or torque range. Long ago I tried out on my Accord, that time old model on carb. Normal filter and filter box, good low end but high end suffers. Can feel when exit into highway takes longer to bring up the speed. Then use knn without the filter box, low end sluggish, but exiting into highway, can feel the speed takes off faster....
Yeah it was a very old test, but it was done on an R33 GTR by some GTR club, hence there were some noticeable power gains. So I agree that if just normal cars, don't expect much out of such replacement filters, but again what ever you do, don't buy those metal mesh filters!I saw that test. But the test bed was dated. These days cars have MAF/MAP and adjust based on the amount of O2 and airflow, etc. I've personally tried a few filters and methods :
1. Drop in K&N : normal filter, serviceable but the oiling was tricky. Too much and it'll clog the sensors with oil. Kena a few times before. Performance was better than stock paper but not much. Could just feel less restriction when revving low to mid-high.
2. Drop in metal mesh : mid to high worked better compared to stock paper filter. Free-er to rev in that range and more responsive. But it only filtered out reasonably large stones and leaves. Small dust particles and mud still went through. EO got dirty real fast and kept constantly needing to clean dust from the TB.
3. Apexi Open pod with insulated air ram and CAI hose directing from the front bumper (no heat shield) : This was pretty interesting, lots of revs but no power gain at all. Very loud noises and the high rev range was very responsive but heavy loss of low end torque.
4. Apexi open pod inside stock airbox and stock everything. Original U-snorkel removed so air in bumper was going upwards directly into the airbox. : Loud noises, mid to high rev range was good but still some loss in low end torque.
5. Stock everything except original drop in filter was cut away leaving only the frame and the Apexi open pod was connected to the end of the U-snorkel in the bumper : This setup worked great. Improvement across the rev range and no loud induction noise. Problem was the pod got dirty verrrrrrrrrry fast. Accessing it was easy for me though.
6. Custom piping from the intake all the way down to the bumper (full straight piping and insulated) connected to the Apexi open pod : This worked even better than stock. The setup was flimsy cuz the piping was only held up by cable ties and the clamp at the manifold. Improvements across the whole rev range.
8. No air filter and direct from CAI into the manifold : This was stupid. Loud and no power gain whatsoever but the revs were so light but didn't translate into any usable power. It would rev to kingdom come without any restrictions though, so that was good for high end revving.
All tested in my wira with front bumper that had a hole with a velocity stack type hole directing directly at the u-snorkel / apexi open pod, similar to M3 design. Hehehe.. yeah right. Anyway, worth noting car was not stock. So for it to adjust to the extra air, it did produce some notable differences.
All these tests proved that there were no improvements in power, just shifting the usable torque / powerband and that the stock setup isn't that bad. Also it helped me figure out that if your car isn't modified for that much air, it won't make much of a difference. So morale of the story is mod your car.
---------- Post added at 08:10 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:03 AM ----------
Sh*t... I re-read what I typed and even I'm confused. Hope you guys understood all that crap.
did you guys know that even in racing...those WRC (or many world racing series) still retain air filter that pretty much like a stock design...BUT with much bigger in term of size (or filteration area)
as example as this:
stock subaru impreza WRX/STI air filter
stock subaru impreza WRC air filter....using the hood scoop as their cold air intake *(try beat that with puny cheapo 3" cold air intake funnel)
as example as this:
stock subaru impreza WRX/STI air filter
stock subaru impreza WRC air filter....using the hood scoop as their cold air intake *(try beat that with puny cheapo 3" cold air intake funnel)
I installed the metal mesh filter on my mom's wira but I cut nicely 2 layer of aircond filter and put in front of the filter. The aircond filter is bought at Daiso.
Works fine for me.
The rev is a bit lighter that's it.
I had re install my stock air box on my BLM. However I only notice that I have discarded the stock air filter when I finished installing the air box. So, out come the Daiso air filter again and I put it on both end of the air filter box. Just like Izso mentioned, the engine rev freely but no useful power is transmitted to the road. FC is bad oso.
marv3
Known Member
Anyone knows any place that can custom make stainless steel drop-in?
I am using KNN now. But i prefer stainless steel. More free flwoing and less hassle to maintain. Unfortunately there isnt any for my car. I dont think the filtration performance matter much. I mean, i dont use the car in construction site or go rally or off road. So i dont really think the amount of dirt for city driving and ocassional touge is that bad la. I mean, is not like we are in the Gobi Dessert.....Hahahhahaha....I think stainless steel will filter just fine for my usage ler.....
I am using KNN now. But i prefer stainless steel. More free flwoing and less hassle to maintain. Unfortunately there isnt any for my car. I dont think the filtration performance matter much. I mean, i dont use the car in construction site or go rally or off road. So i dont really think the amount of dirt for city driving and ocassional touge is that bad la. I mean, is not like we are in the Gobi Dessert.....Hahahhahaha....I think stainless steel will filter just fine for my usage ler.....
Last edited:
n
city driving is even worse in term of dust.i know this as my previous open pod on the blm gets super dusty in a month time.
my layer of aircond filter traps lots of small sand particle.this is only city driving for the waja.
my waja is on k&n but i still put a layer of aircond filer.
stick to your k&n bro.
city driving is even worse in term of dust.i know this as my previous open pod on the blm gets super dusty in a month time.
my layer of aircond filter traps lots of small sand particle.this is only city driving for the waja.
my waja is on k&n but i still put a layer of aircond filer.
Yup, like my wife's SUV strictly town drive, after some time even the whole engine bay is dusty.
You put air con filter on the knn become normal filter only......
not really.i am using the home aircond filter not the paper cartridge normally used on car aircond.Yup, like my wife's SUV strictly town drive, after some time even the whole engine bay is dusty.
You put air con filter on the knn become normal filter only......
its even thinner than tissue paper.
very useful to trap dust and sand but wont let the sand stick to the filter so flow is not affected.
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