Adjustable fuel regulator

Rigid

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Rigid

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yo expert and experienced one's...

a question which triggered me after calculating the reality of KW....which end up my car runs to lean at higher rpm when speeding....shit....

so if let say i buy it and intend to install it by my own....how to measure it accurately and maybe if any of u got the idea on the calculations...yeah give me a pop...i sure feel the rest might wanted to know too...
 

Rigid

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too many ricer
 

EFN

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For A-FPR Tuning follow this guide:

1. Install Fuel Pressure Gauge between the Fuel Rail and the Fuel Hose from Tank.
2. Crank-Up engine and check current pressure level at idle
3. Then check Wide Open Throttle pressure by disconnecting the Vacuum hose from the FPR
4. Record all the findings and if possible compare them with the Standard spec of the car from car manual (if available)
5. Install an Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator unit
6. With the data collected earlier, if you suspect that your car is running lean, diconnect Vacuum hose from the AFPR and adjust the tuning screw to the next available pressure stage (1PSI increase)
7. Test drive your car to see if similar symptoms exist.
8. If still exist, increase another PSI

If after increasing 10PSI and car still run lean, then you might have problem with:
1. Fuel Pump - getting old and weak
2. Injectors - Varnish sediment developed in the passages
3. Fuel Filter - Simple dirty case
4. Fuel Lines - Bent due to impact
5. OEM FPR - Tensioner spring has gone soft

Ultimately, you can send your car for Dyno to get Wide band Air-Fuel-Ratio reading. Only Wide Band AFR can tell exactly at which RPM the lean situation occurs.

Hope this helps.
 

Rigid

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cool...will definitely keep this as future reference

If after increasing 10PSI and car still run lean, then you might have problem with:
1. Fuel Pump - getting old and weak
2. Injectors - Varnish sediment developed in the passages**
3. Fuel Filter - Simple dirty case
4. Fuel Lines - Bent due to impact
5. OEM FPR - Tensioner spring has gone soft

i really fear with no.2**
 

masvidal

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masvidal

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anybody knows what is the ideal fuel pressure for stock proton 1.5? currently i set the idle around 32psi and with full throttle it will increase around 40psi.
 

tacira

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anybody knows what is the ideal fuel pressure for stock mivec 1.6?
 

EFN

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Each car differs from another even if they are the same model. I have seen 6 different Toyota 4A-GE 20V 1.6L running 6 different Pressure Level even if they belong to the same model. Some are optimized at 28PSI some need 35PSI, not one are the same. What this means is that once you have A-FPR installed, you have the luxury to test out the ranges that suit your car the best. Just need to be a bit active in self-tuning the A-FPR. How to know the best setup, you need to determine first what sort of experience you need. If you require smooth and silky engine response, higher pressure usually helps. For prompt throttle response and nimble acceleration, lower pressure will do the trick - but sometimes can be a bit rough. Still not happy with tuning, just go for a Dyno test and surely the proper setting will be revealed on the sheets.
 

masvidal

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help!!

why when i adjust around 36psi and when i rev, the engine feel want to go off?

now, lower it to 32psi and then rev, the engine more stable. but once in a while, while driving, feel like the engine go off also.
 

fzee70

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guys...for RB engine what is the best setting I mean how many psi during idling and hi rev supposed to be. And what should I do if i haven't get the hi rev level. Change or add another fuel pump. Currently the idling setting is 35psi...it's ok and i'm using complete set aeropseed FPR. Your help will be much appreciated....
 

masvidal

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Originally posted by masvidal@Feb 15 2005, 19:58
help!!

why when i adjust around 36psi and when i rev, the engine feel want to go off?

now, lower it to 32psi and then rev, the engine more stable. but once in a while, while driving, feel like the engine go off also.
wei, mr. drexchan, help me lah about this thing.
 

drexchan

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drexchan

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how could i help? You must test the setting until you satisfied. Otherwise just swap back to the stock FPR and record down the pressure. Start from that value and plays around with the screw driver.. I do that too.

Just swapped back to stock FPR (coz i will upgrade to the intergrated gauge version). Now i do have the same feeling like you too. Once a while the idling became unstable and seems like want to die-off. Driven down the road. Acceleration was ok but face some jerking during corner (clutch down, down shifting). I also dunno what happen..

Supposingly the stock setting is the best for stability and drivability. Since i am now running without the gauge, i couldn't do anything about it. Will wait for the new version to be installed then i can further test it.

And to make things easier. it's better to makesure that everything works fine.. for example the TB must be clean. The air temperature during the testing is also important. I recon to do it during day time. If the setting works well in hotter temp., i'll work even better in colder condition.
 

masvidal

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thanks dude. suspect something wrong with the AFR la. today i reset back the ecu. after doing some road test, seem that everything is ok. will test it a few more days.
 

drexchan

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drexchan

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i heard that your's is leaking right? i think the diaphragm is broken due to rough adjustment..

Have you swapped it back to the stock FPR? how you reset? disconnecting the bat?
 

masvidal

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Originally posted by drexchan@Feb 26 2005, 19:01
i heard that your's is leaking right? i think the diaphragm is broken due to rough adjustment..

Have you swapped it back to the stock FPR? how you reset? disconnecting the bat?
i still use the same AFR. reset by disconnecting the battery. after that pressure is around 36psi. but after drive it, pressure when down back to 34psi (my original setting). will check again tommorow.

wah, the diaphragm is so sensitive ka? i dont have any idea. i adjust it normally. this fuel in vacuum connection can effect the engine?
 

drexchan

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drexchan

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Originally posted by masvidal+Feb 27 2005, 00:15 --></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (masvidal @ Feb 27 2005, 00:15 )</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> <!--QuoteBegin-drexchan@Feb 26 2005, 19:01
i heard that your's is leaking right? i think the diaphragm is broken due to rough adjustment..

Have you swapped it back to the stock FPR? how you reset? disconnecting the bat?
i still use the same AFR. reset by disconnecting the battery. after that pressure is around 36psi. but after drive it, pressure when down back to 34psi (my original setting). will check again tommorow.

wah, the diaphragm is so sensitive ka? i dont have any idea. i adjust it normally. this fuel in vacuum connection can effect the engine? [/b][/quote]
You'll be running rich.. it's just like an uncontrolled fifth injector.
 

taufux

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I'm newbie in this can i know wat is the AFR and FPR tat u guys talking about?
 

drexchan

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have you guys tried out coupling the A-FPR with a FMU? I found that it gives a comparetive response (if not better) even with pressure set to be lower than stock.

FMU - fuel management unit, also called RR-FPR (rising rate FPR), to boost the rising of the manifold pressure at a factor >1.

Stock FPR and most of the normal A-FPR gives a 1:1. Meaning 1 psi increase in manifold increases 1 psi in the fuel rail.

FMU or RR-FPR give a 1:1.xx boost. Meaning it increases the fuel pressure at > 1x than each psi increase in the manifold pressure.

See the attached diagram in the bottom of the post.

The vacuum hose from the A-FPR is connected to the FMU before going into the manifold. Another vacuum port is Tee'ed to the PCV.

mine is a denso unit from japan. Used, quite old, non-adjstable but still gives a boost. Well.. mine is NOT exactly a FMU coz it has a small filter mounted at the top (which FMU don't have). I dunno what's shouls i call it so just put it as a FMU.

I lowered the idling pressure to 32psi (stock 36psi).

The combination seems to behave pretty well. Will keep monitoring the performance and FC...
 
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EFN

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masvidal & guys:
I assume that you are driving a Proton 1.5 or 1.3 even. From what I have seen on alot of Protons that I have done. The factory settings for all Proton Denso FPR is set at 40PSI Idle and 48PSI Full Throttle (Vacuum Off). If you set your Proton to 36 or 37, it should give you good Throttle Response and Acceleration. This is because the 40PSI pressure set by Proton is to ensure that engine will always be running smooth at the expense of acceleration and response.

But then again A-FPR value should not fluctuate after u set it, if you set at 36PSI Idle then it should return to 36PSI after revving.

Hope this helps.
 

EFN

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Originally posted by masvidal@Mar 5 2005, 20:09
Dear EFN,

after revving, it drop slightly down to 34psi and then back to normal 36psi. what could be wrong?
Do this test:

Let the engine Idle. Disconnect Vacuum from the A-FPR and what's the reading. With vacuum disconnected it will show Full Throttle pressure which should be around 44 or 46PSI. If the reading is lower than that (less than 42PSI) then you might have vacuum leak or vacuum is getting weak.

Sometimes it is normal for the pressure to dip down a bit when throttle is opened but then it should immediately rise after dipping - IMMEDIATELY.
 

bigroom

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hey EFN......do u noe d stock standard FPR measurement 4 wira 1.6? tanx. btw mine's auto. Or anybody else noes......
 
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hi guys senior2,

im using 4g91 convert turbo. my turbine is td05, using evo 3 wiring including the injector. right now im using aerospeed fpr. i use fuel pump from rb model. can u guys please help me how much should i set my fpr to give better response for my throttle?(not lean and not to rich) right now i set at 48 psi(vacum on). when i test at full boost, i can see some black smoke is coming out from my exzos. is it normal for turbo? my boost is 0.8 only. engine stock. thx guys...
 

devilz 78

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devilz 78

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greetings seniors

im having problem with my fuel pressure drop quite low for a 4g92p, if im reading it right now reading at 2.5 bar, as other otais said it shud be standard rate at 3 or 3.5 bar rite? this happens because of bigger diameter of throttle body i installed earlier or my fuel pump is getting its way to the dustbins ? mau kong... pls kindly show me some pointers here thanks:adore:
 

devilz 78

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devilz 78

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hahaha problem solve its my stupid frp dead edi, after changing to a new one it runs like a champ....morale of the story dont buy counterfeit product due to so cheap price huhuh