4g13 talks

parakey

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Meaning this is a toy car.

- Strip the car naked (inside) and scrape out all the sound proofing and unnecessary plastic parts. But leave the A/B/C pillars and dash.
- Lay down one thin black lightweight carpet material to hide the bare metal.
- Change to a CF or fiber hood (but safety wise is a risk)
- Change to lightweight rims and go for 195/50/15 performance tyres.
- Upgrade to GSR brakes and use good brake pads
- Top overhaul head and skim the head leaving only 1mm behind
- If you got balls and if your mech knows what he's doing swap to Kembara domed pistons.
- Consider some sort of ECU management preferably not piggyback
- Fit a nice bucket seat and steering wheel
- Change all bushes to superpro
- Antiroll bar front and back
- Get a AFPR and service your injectors. Also upgrade your fuel pump and change the filter.
- Get your exhaust done front to back (straight flow 2" and 4-2-1 extractor)
- Consider the room bar, rear tower strut bar and fender bars
Would this beat the drivability of a 4G93 powered wira?

Would the above cost less than swapping for a 1.8 putra?
 

Latebloomer

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Meaning this is a toy car.

- Strip the car naked (inside) and scrape out all the sound proofing and unnecessary plastic parts. But leave the A/B/C pillars and dash.
- Lay down one thin black lightweight carpet material to hide the bare metal.
- Change to a CF or fiber hood (but safety wise is a risk)
- Change to lightweight rims and go for 195/50/15 performance tyres.
- Upgrade to GSR brakes and use good brake pads
- Top overhaul head and skim the head leaving only 1mm behind
- If you got balls and if your mech knows what he's doing swap to Kembara domed pistons.
- Consider some sort of ECU management preferably not piggyback
- Fit a nice bucket seat and steering wheel
- Change all bushes to superpro
- Antiroll bar front and back
- Get a AFPR and service your injectors. Also upgrade your fuel pump and change the filter.
- Get your exhaust done front to back (straight flow 2" and 4-2-1 extractor)
- Consider the room bar, rear tower strut bar and fender bars

And you'll always need RON97 or more if you do the head skim and domed pistons. Personally I wouldn't bother with a performance cam at this point. Maybe later.

You won't be beating your Hilux in a straightline drag race but it'll be plenty spirited to drive with this basic mods.
yes yes.. good suggestion bro.. luckily for me, the car is already been kong (empty) meaning only left the dasboard and the driver seat..
Meaning this is a toy car.

- Strip the car naked (inside) and scrape out all the sound proofing and unnecessary plastic parts. But leave the A/B/C pillars and dash.
- Lay down one thin black lightweight carpet material to hide the bare metal.
- Change to a CF or fiber hood (but safety wise is a risk)
- Change to lightweight rims and go for 195/50/15 performance tyres.
- Upgrade to GSR brakes and use good brake pads
- Top overhaul head and skim the head leaving only 1mm behind
- If you got balls and if your mech knows what he's doing swap to Kembara domed pistons.
- Consider some sort of ECU management preferably not piggyback
- Fit a nice bucket seat and steering wheel
- Change all bushes to superpro
- Antiroll bar front and back
- Get a AFPR and service your injectors. Also upgrade your fuel pump and change the filter.
- Get your exhaust done front to back (straight flow 2" and 4-2-1 extractor)
- Consider the room bar, rear tower strut bar and fender bars

And you'll always need RON97 or more if you do the head skim and domed pistons. Personally I wouldn't bother with a performance cam at this point. Maybe later.

You won't be beating your Hilux in a straightline drag race but it'll be plenty spirited to drive with this basic mods.
Yes yes.. good suggestions bro Izso. Luckily for me the car had already been kong (empty) meaning only left the dashboard and the driver seat.
I share with with guys what i had done

- install afpr
- rpo 15inch
-195/55 conti tyre
-Gab adj suspension
-stabilizer bush
-new lower arms (front) plus tulang anjing
-bucket seat will install together with carpet
-new fuel pump.. local denso brand

What im planning to do next are
-new dashboard 1.6 (since old one already cracked and old)
-sport steering plus bosskit
-rear drum brek convert to disc brek (1.6)
-exhaust system

Well i guess tats it for the mean time.. some probably i forgot.. the skim head thing mayb not gonna look forward to. Like i said.. if lucky round2 around kuching or suggested by friends.. mayb can get a decent engine to swap on. Not planning on modding my current engine.. as for the Bars things.. will get it in the future.
 

Latebloomer

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Toy car is never a family car....
toy car = mod piston, mod brakes, remove seats, strip whatever not necessary
family car = more seats (baby seats), plush soft toys, big boot space, more leg rooms, big LCD screen entertainment, NOT to speed because "Family on Board" with sticker.

if your toy car is a family car... then, I guess the thread stop... Just keep 1.3 as it is... refurbished your suspension for more comfort ride instead of adjustable. Standard pipe instead or VROOOMM 2 pipe.

- Ditto -
If like tat need to buy vellfire for family car oh.. Hihi. Toy car can put full seat also lah. Just incase of an emergency.
 

Latebloomer

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yeah... 1 driver seat + basket... drive to Tabuan buy Sarawak Laksa and Kolomee... :rofl::rofl::rofl:
Kuching every where kolo mee are nice :D anyways.. how much does a rear disc brek 1.6 cost? excluding installation.. and if i purchase some.. how will i know if i get a complete set. Already survey but just curious cause scare kena kencing ltr not complete set. Cheers
 

Izso

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Kuching every where kolo mee are nice :D anyways.. how much does a rear disc brek 1.6 cost? excluding installation.. and if i purchase some.. how will i know if i get a complete set. Already survey but just curious cause scare kena kencing ltr not complete set. Cheers
question is why do you need rear discs? Are your drums not doing well? The braking ability doesn't change much after you swap. Maybe disc can tahan heat better but how heavy do you use the brakes and how often? upgrade fronts laaaa.

Would this beat the drivability of a 4G93 powered wira?
Depends. Cuz the 4G13/15 with its shorter ratio gb is quite rev happy and peppy. It won't beat a 1.8 in a straight line race but on touge I'd say maybe it can be as good.

Would the above cost less than swapping for a 1.8 putra?
Probably not. HAHAHAHAHA
 

Latebloomer

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This is the part where i kena hammer XD.. drum brek still doin okay. Swap for beauty purpose.. Since u already talk bout front break. What can i do to improve it. Beside swapping it
 

Izso

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This is the part where i kena hammer XD.. drum brek still doin okay. Swap for beauty purpose.. Since u already talk bout front break. What can i do to improve it. Beside swapping it
Going bigger is one thing. Going lighter is another. Bigger brake calipers sometimes add weight and the unsprung weight can be felt when you drive. My 4-pot caliper is about 1.2kg only. It's as light as stock caliper but 4-pot so better braking.

You want better brakes get bigger, lighter calipers and better pads. Oh brake oil too plays a part - but only if you really are able to cook the oil to overheat which most of the time only really happens downhill touge or track. The other thing about brake oil is how much fits into the bigger calipers. Sometimes the caliper oil reservoir is too large and you end up having to press the brake pedal more for it to bite. People usually upgrade the servos to compensate - but again upgrade your calipers properly. My lighweight calipers also have small brake reservoirs so they pedal feel doesn't change at all.

Oh before i forget, your car is probably really old. The original brake hoses are made of rubber and have a lifespan. If they are kinda sorta soft and expand, then it's time to change. Look for nice braided hoses that have a layer of shielding on top that protects it from dust and mud.
 

lsm1991

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This is the part where i kena hammer XD.. drum brek still doin okay. Swap for beauty purpose.. Since u already talk bout front break. What can i do to improve it. Beside swapping it
if you want it to be an on off switch, bigger pump... but after that u got to get used to modulating it
 

Latebloomer

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Hello everyone.. as i was talk and chill my friend about cars and stuff. Suddenly he said he got a complete 4g15 carb engine still sitting on his iswara back at his hometown. Well not exactly complete, the only thing thats missing is the carb itself.

So i ask him wether he would sell it to me.. since its a 1.5, he gladly say yes and willing to offer me 1k for the engine.

Bro Izso.. any comment?
 

lsm1991

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my only question to you is.... is it going to be worth the effort/cost?
 

Izso

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Hello everyone.. as i was talk and chill my friend about cars and stuff. Suddenly he said he got a complete 4g15 carb engine still sitting on his iswara back at his hometown. Well not exactly complete, the only thing thats missing is the carb itself.

So i ask him wether he would sell it to me.. since its a 1.5, he gladly say yes and willing to offer me 1k for the engine.

Bro Izso.. any comment?
The only thing you can use from that engine is just the block, pistons, crank and head. The wiring is completely different and I don't know how you're going to marry your 1.3 VDO wiring, ecu and sensors to a carb 4G15. It's too much trouble. And honestly 1k is a little high
 

Latebloomer

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The only thing you can use from that engine is just the block, pistons, crank and head. The wiring is completely different and I don't know how you're going to marry your 1.3 VDO wiring, ecu and sensors to a carb 4G15. It's too much trouble. And honestly 1k is a little high
Wiring complete diff since changing from vdo carb to efi mmc. 1k still expensive ah?
 

Izso

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Wiring complete diff since changing from vdo carb to efi mmc. 1k still expensive ah?
Your car now is a VDO EFI right? The carb wiring is different and that's a cost there itself to convert.


You see this link, it's 850.


This one EFI even comes with the GB for 1350.

So yeah, a 1k carb 4G15 is a bit expensive. If you insist on that engine then push it lower pricing. But to be fair I don't know how prices go in Kuching.

If you're gonna go engine swap, I'd suggest you stick with a full EFI swap instead. Less headache. And if you're a manual now, swap to another manual. If you go from auto to manual or manual to auto, there are some minor bits and pieces that are different like start motor, the dash meter is a bit different and of course the wiring too. And another consideration is going from VDO to MMC, there's again some wiring that needs tweaking because one is MAP and the other is MAF and MMC doesn't use a crank position sensor

Basically if the engine is 1k to buy, prepare about 1000 to service the engine, 500 to do the engine swap, maybe 500 to 1k for the wiring job (if any). These prices are if you and your mech are great friends and he's just doing you a favor. So yeah.