1jz E36 BMW frankensteining

Nightstalker1993

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Nightstalker1993

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Aug 30, 2010
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I told you I wanted to buy!! Just that budget doesn't permit at the moment. So living with it for now.
Sell the boost controller which you don't seem to need anymore and buy that SPAL before your engine overheats and seizes and 5 figure goes down the drain man. Don't be penny wise pound foolish.

Guys question :

I have found that my IACV is deleted (aftermarket TB and intake manifold), using a Nissan Q35 TB (cable) and a FICD which are obviously all non standard. The TB itself seems to have a funky adjuster screw which moves after a move (possibly when it's hot cuz cold it seems to be tight). Right now my idle when cold is good. When hot it hunts 100-200rpm between 800 to 1000 rpm which annoys the hell outta me.

I plan to Loctite the screw to stop it from moving and maybe swap out the FICD just in case it's faulty. Is there anything else I should look at to resolve this? Tuner earlier said the ECU cannot seem to keep up with it to compensate and suspects the TB is not good.
the original IACV is stepper motor type or a PWM controlled valve? If your idle is hunting even when there is no idle valve, then maybe your ecu settings on idle is funky. Tuning idle isn't as straight forward as it is man, took me bloody long to make my car idle like standard.
 

Izso

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Izso

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Sell the boost controller which you don't seem to need anymore and buy that SPAL before your engine overheats and seizes and 5 figure goes down the drain man. Don't be penny wise pound foolish.

the original IACV is stepper motor type or a PWM controlled valve? If your idle is hunting even when there is no idle valve, then maybe your ecu settings on idle is funky. Tuning idle isn't as straight forward as it is man, took me bloody long to make my car idle like standard.
Yeah, gonna do that. Sell and buy. But right now the engine only reached max 96 on stop-go traffic and I switch off the aircon to further reduce it. Btw, I wanna ask - is it more efficient to have one pull fan only rather than one pull and one push? And then remove the oil cooler out of the path and to use those foam to "guide" the air?

IACV is stepper motor type. But it's no longer there so no use. Also I suspect the cams is bothering the tune as well. Biggest issue is this idle issue only comes out when engine is above 80 deg C. Cold there's no hunting. What parameters did you adjust to manage the idle?
 

vr2turbo

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vr2turbo

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Have you tried idling speed with air con off and on. FICD is to compensate when air con on...
 

gunnerzz

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gunnerzz

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Yeah, gonna do that. Sell and buy. But right now the engine only reached max 96 on stop-go traffic and I switch off the aircon to further reduce it. Btw, I wanna ask - is it more efficient to have one pull fan only rather than one pull and one push? And then remove the oil cooler out of the path and to use those foam to "guide" the air?

IACV is stepper motor type. But it's no longer there so no use. Also I suspect the cams is bothering the tune as well. Biggest issue is this idle issue only comes out when engine is above 80 deg C. Cold there's no hunting. What parameters did you adjust to manage the idle?
IMHO the most important thing is to get the fan supplying 'fresh' air instead of recycled air from the engine bay.

Take my sister humble Kenari for example.I install additional fan infront to push air assuming it will help improve aircond performance during stop and go driving.The result is almost nothing improved. What i did is custom made covers to block any path or opening which allow hot air from the engine bay to be recycled thru the radiator again.Its damn tedious but result is there.
 

Izso

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Izso

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Have you tried idling speed with air con off and on. FICD is to compensate when air con on...
It works well without aircon. But hot-start (water temp > 85 deg C) it just dies off shortly after firing up. Takes a few restarts for it to settle down.

IMHO the most important thing is to get the fan supplying 'fresh' air instead of recycled air from the engine bay.

Take my sister humble Kenari for example.I install additional fan infront to push air assuming it will help improve aircond performance during stop and go driving.The result is almost nothing improved. What i did is custom made covers to block any path or opening which allow hot air from the engine bay to be recycled thru the radiator again.Its damn tedious but result is there.
So now your sis' kenari has two fans with proper flow? how do you mean recycled? Got sample?
 

vr2turbo

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vr2turbo

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So now your sis' kenari has two fans with proper flow? how do you mean recycled? Got sample?
I think he means the engine bay hot air not escaping out, so sort of recycle thru' radiator again, but I doubt since radiator is up front. Probably no circulation, but yours have raised bonnet already right?
 

ixeo

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ixeo

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Izso. So what gunnerzz said is in line with what I told you. I don’t think there’s anything wrong with your radiator or fan. Just a single properly working original pull fan, with the radiator shrouded and blocked off from recycled hot air.

It’s funny cause if it’s original shroud and sponges all in place it should work fine.
 

gunnerzz

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gunnerzz

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It works well without aircon. But hot-start (water temp > 85 deg C) it just dies off shortly after firing up. Takes a few restarts for it to settle down.



So now your sis' kenari has two fans with proper flow? how do you mean recycled? Got sample?
Previously yes,now already removed the additional pusher fan after installing blocking plate.i dont have the pics.

When car is moving our radiator will get fresh air as air from outside the front bumper is push in by the foward motion of the car itself.The effect is better cooling.U can see this from lesser aircond compressor running time and radiator fan running time.Not sure u will notices this in a car with good sound dampening like yours.

For example on my BLM Campro ( u can google any Campro engine bay picture ), notice there is a gap between the top radiator cover and the metal piece frame where the bonnet latch locked when u close the bonet.There is at least 1 inch gap there all along the rediator length. During stationary, hot air from the engine bay or after being sucked by the radiator fan will find its way back to the front of the radiator hence reduced cooling. The top part is the easy one to solve or fabricate the blocking plate.The left and right are difficult.

The best OE design i saw is on my dad Pajero LO.The radiator is placed in square metal frame and this coupled with the hood rubber seal and no other opening ensure the radiator always gets fresh air and not hot air from the engine bay.
 

Izso

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I think he means the engine bay hot air not escaping out, so sort of recycle thru' radiator again, but I doubt since radiator is up front. Probably no circulation, but yours have raised bonnet already right?
It's during jams it heats up to 96-100 deg c. So I think there's some sort of recirculation going on there.

Previously yes,now already removed the additional pusher fan after installing blocking plate.i dont have the pics.

When car is moving our radiator will get fresh air as air from outside the front bumper is push in by the foward motion of the car itself.The effect is better cooling.U can see this from lesser aircond compressor running time and radiator fan running time.Not sure u will notices this in a car with good sound dampening like yours.

For example on my BLM Campro ( u can google any Campro engine bay picture ), notice there is a gap between the top radiator cover and the metal piece frame where the bonnet latch locked when u close the bonet.There is at least 1 inch gap there all along the rediator length. During stationary, hot air from the engine bay or after being sucked by the radiator fan will find its way back to the front of the radiator hence reduced cooling. The top part is the easy one to solve or fabricate the blocking plate.The left and right are difficult.

The best OE design i saw is on my dad Pajero LO.The radiator is placed in square metal frame and this coupled with the hood rubber seal and no other opening ensure the radiator always gets fresh air and not hot air from the engine bay.
My bimmer has a top radiator blocking plastic thing already so that's not the issue. Issue is from the sides so will need to think of a way to fabricate some sort of blocking plate for the sides that won't get in the way of my intercooler hoses and relocate the oil cooler in a way it doesn't get in the way of the blocking plate and intercooler hoses.

Izso. So what gunnerzz said is in line with what I told you. I don’t think there’s anything wrong with your radiator or fan. Just a single properly working original pull fan, with the radiator shrouded and blocked off from recycled hot air.

It’s funny cause if it’s original shroud and sponges all in place it should work fine.
My sponges are missing. The shroud together with the main radiator so that works but the recirculating is what I'm thinking about now. I need to find flexible aluminum plates and try to fit some in for my car front without affecting my cars super duper idiotic sensitive wiring.


Latest update : Over the weekend I tried to sponge up the front and do what you guys suggested. But something else failed and my car can't start. Starter is weak, it won't ignite and I cannot figure out (along with 2 other mechanic friends) what is causing the issue. So now it's going to be towed to a friends workshop who does BMW-JZ conversions with their eyes closed for further troubleshooting.

- Found melted relays controlling the fan (who connects two high powered fans to one relay!?!?)
- Starter drawing too much current until the whole car is struggling to start
- After jump starting it won't stay idle
- There's a huge puddle of black oil leaking from one of the braided oil cooler lines

Seriously contemplating stripping the car for parts and going with a stock 1JZ auto engine. Apparently the R154 manual 5 speed is a gold mine and my HKS cams are sellable. Aftermarket intake manifold and stand alone ECU can go and after I sell all that it can fund a stock standard 1jz auto.

But having spoken to a lot of friends including nightstalker I've spent too much time and $ to back out now. Let's see how this progresses. For all I know ZTH may never get to see the end product. Sigh.
 
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vr2turbo

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OMG! still have so much problems......:banghead:

nighthunter? seldom in the forum? or do you means bro. nightstalker?
 

gunnerzz

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Chill out bro,
Most of us encounter these downtime.
Myself included with my Waja 1.8 tempermental electrical. Took months to settle but once solved it provide me with invaluable knowledge and a hole in my pocket...heheh.
The knowledge part is the best.

Still, the choice is yours.
 

Izso

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Izso

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OMG! still have so much problems......:banghead:

nighthunter? seldom in the forum? or do you means bro. nightstalker?
whoops.. edited :biggrin:

Yes.. still so many problems.

Chill out bro,
Most of us encounter these downtime.
Myself included with my Waja 1.8 tempermental electrical. Took months to settle but once solved it provide me with invaluable knowledge and a hole in my pocket...heheh.
The knowledge part is the best.

Still, the choice is yours.
Mine is not hole bro.. mine pants also melted and eating into my leg skin
 

jerrysiow

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jerrysiow

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Wondering what is your wife's comments/reaction to all these issues with your new car?
Wakakakaka. Probably punishment below:

1. Stand still and pull ears.
2. Got canned.
3. Sleep at sofa.
4. nagging level went up to 1000x.

Anymore xD?
 

ixeo

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ixeo

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Latest update : Over the weekend I tried to sponge up the front and do what you guys suggested.
Who else suggested that sponge? Hehehe. I'm surprised other people know about it. I thought i'm the only evil genius around. But yes, AS I SUSPECTED THAT'S THE CAUSE OF YOUR OVERHEATING PROBLEMS.

Limpeh genius *pats self on back

You are in too deep to back out laaaaa.
 

Izso

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Izso

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Wondering what is your wife's comments/reaction to all these issues with your new car?
She's immune already. She said "Again ah? Told you to buy new car lor"

Who else suggested that sponge? Hehehe. I'm surprised other people know about it. I thought i'm the only evil genius around. But yes, AS I SUSPECTED THAT'S THE CAUSE OF YOUR OVERHEATING PROBLEMS.

Limpeh genius *pats self on back

You are in too deep to back out laaaaa.
Gunnerz did a major project to plug all the holes in his car
 

Nightstalker1993

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Nightstalker1993

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It works well without aircon. But hot-start (water temp > 85 deg C) it just dies off shortly after firing up. Takes a few restarts for it to settle down.



So now your sis' kenari has two fans with proper flow? how do you mean recycled? Got sample?
Sounds like you really have to ask your tuner to get your idle etc tuned properly man. Spend so much but he can't even offer a solution for idle is really pretty ridiculous. Not too sure about your Spitronics, but many ECU in the market including my Megasquirt and the common Links, have a feature to control the idle using only ignition timing, and tuned right it can be pretty close to OEM. You should try asking your tuner on this.

Anyway, I'd vote to see this project through and at least being able to enjoy the car. Now spend so much time and money, but never get to enjoy the car then sell, not worth it ba. At least if you get to enjoy the car, even if you sell it at a loss, still not a complete loss as you managed to enjoy it.
 
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