Sound come out from suspension

[Edvin Baron]

dear car enthusiasts, need some explanation,
i drove out my car from car park which was a steep slope, even i tried to escape thru sideways, still i wrecked my front bumper causing maximum pressure on my front left tire and suspension, now i hear a squeeze sound (front left side) everytime i go over a speed bump,

can someone tell me what could be the reason?
hope u guys can help me, thanks

GAB HE SERIES

Your car lowered very low? What car do you drive? Did you change the drive shafts, ARB link, bump stops etc to match the lowered height?

thanks izso, its height is 2 finger gap between tire and fender with 15" inch rims, satria neo,

yes, went to tire shop, they replaced the ball joint and ARB link,

even solved, appreciate if you can explain the relation with bump stops that match with lowered height, also the relation with driveshafts as i find its a bit harder to steer the right side compared to left side. Tq

 

[Izso]

thanks izso, its height is 2 finger gap between tire and fender with 15" inch rims, satria neo,

yes, went to tire shop, they replaced the ball joint and ARB link,

even solved, appreciate if you can explain the relation with bump stops that match with lowered height, also the relation with driveshafts as i find its a bit harder to steer the right side compared to left side. Tq

I don't know how to explain it technically speaking but maybe this picture can explain it :

Lowering the car will change the driveshaft angle and lots of other things will get affected too like ARB angle due to the linkages.

 

[Edvin Baron]

I don't know how to explain it technically speaking but maybe this picture can explain it :

Lowering the car will change the driveshaft angle and lots of other things will get affected too like ARB angle due to the linkages.

thanks pal, that helped me getting a picture of it, what would be your suggestion after lowering the car? is it better to change some related parts that is performance oriented or remain stock parts?

 

[Izso]

thanks pal, that helped me getting a picture of it, what would be your suggestion after lowering the car? is it better to change some related parts that is performance oriented or remain stock parts?

What people do is change to adjustable ARB links to cater for the lower height, adjustable arms (if they have any for your car) to adjust the geometry to cater for the height and that's kinda it. Lowering the car can be a pain in the ass if not done properly. But your height of 2-fingers thereabouts isn't too extreme so apart from the ARB link, I don't think you need to do anything else.

Does your suspension have a bumpstop? If not perhaps you could consider getting suspension that has it.

 

[Izso]

oh I didn't explain bumpstop. When lowered the springs are presumably lower so if your absorber isn't short stroke then the travel will be kinda long. Without a bumpstop it'll keep travelling until past it's lowest point which then means metal to metal knocking and general discomfort and ugly noises.

 

[Edvin Baron]

oh I didn't explain bumpstop. When lowered the springs are presumably lower so if your absorber isn't short stroke then the travel will be kinda long. Without a bumpstop it'll keep travelling until past it's lowest point which then means metal to metal knocking and general discomfort and ugly noises.

Owh yeah, that true, i did some research for the bumpstop, i dont think my gab he series have that.. picture of the sus im using for your reference

 

[Izso]

Owh yeah, that true, i did some research for the bumpstop, i dont think my gab he series have that.. picture of the sus im using for your reference

Underneath the black cover thingy (dust cover?) the bumpstop is underneath usually. But doesn't look like it's there.

 

[Edvin Baron]

View attachment 576349

Underneath the black cover thingy (dust cover?) the bumpstop is underneath usually. But doesn't look like it's there.

i felt the same too, do bumpstop available in market separately?

 

[vr2turbo]

I don't know how to explain it technically speaking but maybe this picture can explain it :

Lowering the car will change the driveshaft angle and lots of other things will get affected too like ARB angle due to the linkages.

Yup, got one time, they send to my mechanic a set of front suspension for VR, really low ones. After fitting, upon acceleration there is a bad vibration, so much so have to remove and return.....

 

[Izso]

i felt the same too, do bumpstop available in market separately?

Usually it comes with the absorbers unless you custom make some.

 

[Izso]

Guys,

My turn to ask how to solve noise in suspension. The car has full nylon bushes replaced for rear subframe and suspension and no rubber bits. The nylon bushes/arms makes this squishy grindy noise everytime I go up and down a speedbump. I've tried greasing the area but it doesn't help. I was told that the rubber stock bushes has some freeplay which allow the bush to rotate whereas the nylon ones do not hence the noise. Is there really no way around the noise?

 

[vr2turbo]

Guys,

My turn to ask how to solve noise in suspension. The car has full nylon bushes replaced for rear subframe and suspension and no rubber bits. The nylon bushes/arms makes this squishy grindy noise everytime I go up and down a speedbump. I've tried greasing the area but it doesn't help. I was told that the rubber stock bushes has some freeplay which allow the bush to rotate whereas the nylon ones do not hence the noise. Is there really no way around the noise?

If greasing cannot eliminate the sound, that cannot dy. Or you can on your ICE louder......hahhahahhaa

 

[gunnerzz]

Guys,

My turn to ask how to solve noise in suspension. The car has full nylon bushes replaced for rear subframe and suspension and no rubber bits. The nylon bushes/arms makes this squishy grindy noise everytime I go up and down a speedbump. I've tried greasing the area but it doesn't help. I was told that the rubber stock bushes has some freeplay which allow the bush to rotate whereas the nylon ones do not hence the noise. Is there really no way around the noise?

I used PU hard bush for my Pajero rear leaf spring bush before and its noisy at first. During install we put grease in but i dont recall was it bearing grease or rubber grease. After few km the noise is gone maybe due to the grease starts to do its job. Now back to stock rubber bush as the PU bush had perished.

Have u tried grease spray?
Thats what i used periodically on the bush.
Its thinner and can get it tight area.

When greasing, it had to be done properly during installation. If done afterwards then some area will be missed.

 

[alcyon]

Guys,

My turn to ask how to solve noise in suspension. The car has full nylon bushes replaced for rear subframe and suspension and no rubber bits. The nylon bushes/arms makes this squishy grindy noise everytime I go up and down a speedbump. I've tried greasing the area but it doesn't help. I was told that the rubber stock bushes has some freeplay which allow the bush to rotate whereas the nylon ones do not hence the noise. Is there really no way around the noise?

I assume you are greasing on the outside. There is no other way than to grease the hinge pin bolts or the inner bore of the bush. Some people actually drill a hole through the arm and bush,screw in grease nipple, and also groove the bush so they can pump in grease into the groove.

 

[Izso]

I assume you are greasing on the outside. There is no other way than to grease the hinge pin bolts or the inner bore of the bush. Some people actually drill a hole through the arm and bush,screw in grease nipple, and also groove the bush so they can pump in grease into the groove.

That’s actually a good idea. But i dont know anyone who does that

 

[alcyon]

That’s actually a good idea. But i dont know anyone who does that

Here is a link
http://www.supramania.com/forum/thr...arm-poly-kit-information.248646/#post-2107023
Look for post by user Piratetip.
I paste his write up here:

The majority of the control arm superpro bushings are 2 part, so those don't need to be drilled.
The center where you drill and tap the zerk to go just feeds the silicone grease directly to the center steel sleeve.

The bushings that are 1 piece - I do in this order:
-Drill and tap the arm for the zerk (orient it so its facing to be accessible later and not interfering with anything, usually in the center)
-Temp install zerk to verify everything fits right, then remove it for now
-Clean all metal burrs and use compressed air to clean all shavings ect..
-Press the bushing into the arm
-Use a small drillbit - 1/16" or 5/64" to drill out the bushing directly in the center of the zerk hole.
-Clean out the bushing shavings and verify the hole is open all the way down to the center sleeve
-I also use a zerk that sticks out ~5/64" into the center bore of the arm - This applies some sealing pressure to the outside edge of the bushing, important for directing the grease to where you want it to go. It probably also helps the bushing from rotating in the bore.
-Grease the center sleeve and press it into the bushing.
-While off the car I usually test that my grease gun is pushing grease where it needs to go with the zerk.
-Clean off the grease thoroughly from the edges of the center sleeve and install the vehicle, torque down.
-Done.

I grease about once a year.
Never encountered any squeaking noises that people talk about with polyurethane bushings.

 

[devious17]

"
Sound come out from suspension" Put back in laa sorry laa, I couldnt resist making an ass of myself.