which cams best suit for GTSS

[Temujin]

Sorry to hijack ur thread bvalve, but was wondering what cams would be good for my car.

Using twin Nismo turbos which is basically similar to the stock ones bar steel fins.

Would Type A (260/252 in/ex) be sufficient or Type B (260/260 in/ex) Poncams be good?

Currently full boost at around 5krpms (1.2 bar only)..

For response, perhaps Type A?

 

[MrNismo]

The best cams for GT-SS turbos with 2.6 bottom end would be (according to HKS...), 264 IN/EX. Step 1 gives you better throttle response, Step 2 gives better power.

 

[feezdya]

The best cams for GT-SS turbos with 2.6 bottom end would be (according to HKS...), 264 IN/EX. Step 1 gives you better throttle response, Step 2 gives better power.

but ee young..your car with out aftermarket cams and running only 4 pistons also we cannot catch up ooo...how weh!!! haha

 

[bvalve]

wheel spin ?

18" rim
255 front and 285 rear tire size can still wheel spin or not ?

rear mana ade so wide ah.....baru 265 saja

 

[reintel]

wheel spin ?

18" rim
255 front and 285 rear tire size can still wheel spin or not ?

My GTT 18"rim standard engine and turbo also can wheel spin on 2nd gear leh!

 

[V-Spec]

reintel, whp not standard ma. :P

 

[[PIMPIN]]

Nope and my car is putting out 500.84 PS (493 whp) at 1.6 bar, displaying a good power band and a very healthy max torque of 56.24 kgm (551.15 N·m of torque). Full boost at 4000 rpm.

The GT-R's ATTESA-ETS system prevents that. For those unfamiliar with the ATTESA, it's pretty much a 16 bit microprocessor that monitors wheel spin and laterial acceleration. When wheel slip is detected, the ATTESA will transfer up to as much as 50% of the power to the front wheels.

When slip IS detected on one of the GT-R's rear wheels (rear wheels turn 5% or more than the front wheels), the system directs torque to the front wheels which run a viscous LSD. Rather than locking the AWD in all the time or having a system that is "all or nothing", the ATTESA-ETS system can apportion different ratios of torque to the front wheels as it sees fit.

Word of warning to GT-R owners: if you choose to launch the car really hard at say a drag strip event (using the stock front differential), you will likely damage the spider gears in the front open differential. This can be countered, however, by a upgrading the front differential to a decent aftermarket LSD unit.

Actually from what I understand, the ATTESA doesn't actually prevent wheelspin but rather reacts to wheelspin. Because technically it needs to detect the loss of traction in order to correct it so in reality wheelspin has occurred already no?

Going OT - What sort of diff upgrades are there for street driven GTRs? Seems to me that unless its an outright track-oriented car, most people tend to leave the diffs alone. But then what about people who have diffs that have seen better days? Got rebuild kits?

Sorry to hijack ur thread bvalve, but was wondering what cams would be good for my car.

Using twin Nismo turbos which is basically similar to the stock ones bar steel fins.

Would Type A (260/252 in/ex) be sufficient or Type B (260/260 in/ex) Poncams be good?

Currently full boost at around 5krpms (1.2 bar only)..

For response, perhaps Type A?

Double hijack. Are these stock turbos with the N1 ball bearing rebuild kits? How much power and boost are they good for?

but ee young..your car with out aftermarket cams and running only 4 pistons also we cannot catch up ooo...how weh!!! haha

Because you drove the Golf GTI bro. Need to bring out one of your Skylines lah.

rear mana ade so wide ah.....baru 265 saja

Yes, but your tyres have fantastic grip right? Wet weather performance is fantastic, dry even more so. Best tyres on the market bro

 

[Loki]

Actually from what I understand, the ATTESA doesn't actually prevent wheelspin but rather reacts to wheelspin. Because technically it needs to detect the loss of traction in order to correct it so in reality wheelspin has occurred already no?

Going OT - What sort of diff upgrades are there for street driven GTRs? Seems to me that unless its an outright track-oriented car, most people tend to leave the diffs alone. But then what about people who have diffs that have seen better days? Got rebuild kits?

The purpose of the system is to ensure a good launch and not burn up your tyres from all that torque, hence prevention would be more suitable word here, as what is the end of result of reaction and detection? Just to react upon detecting a wheelspin and then what? Sounds like your splitting hairs to me, mate :).

But to answer your question succintly, please refer to Nissan's R33 GT-R service book which explains in detail the features of the ATTESA ETS system, when on certain road or driving conditions (note the use of words like "to avoid" or "prevents any sudden increase"):

As for diff upgrades, the most popular is the OS Giken Super Lock LSD - quiet when in operation, 100% lock-up and at a reasonable price, as opposed to Nismo's Carbon LSD.

http://www.streettuned.com.au/Drivetrain/Differentials/OS-Giken-Super-Lock-LSD-Nissan-Skyline-R33-GTR/prod_862.html

Note that if you own a R33 GT-R VSpec, that comes standard with the active differential, you don't have much options when upgrading, hence the reason why I bought a standard R33 GT-R.

 

[Temujin]

Double hijack. Are these stock turbos with the N1 ball bearing rebuild kits? How much power and boost are they good for?

they're stock turbos with steel internals instead of ceramic and uses 270 deg journal bearings (mine upgraded to 360 deg). iirc slightly bigger turbine too..?

had a file with the specs of various (32, 33, 34, N1 models) gt-r turbos in comparison but can't seem to find it on the computer..

iirc again it puts out a theoretical ~320hp each. currently putting 387whp at 1.2bar but full boost is at a very late 5krpm..

thinkin of upping it to 1.4bar with a pair of aftermarket cams to make better response.

 

[[PIMPIN]]

The purpose of the system is to ensure a good launch and not burn up your tyres from all that torque, hence prevention would be more suitable word here, as what is the end of result of reaction and detection? Just to react upon detecting a wheelspin and then what? Sounds like your splitting hairs to me, mate :).

But to answer your question succintly, please refer to Nissan's R33 GT-R service book which explains in detail the features of the ATTESA ETS system, when on certain road or driving conditions (note the use of words like "to avoid" or "prevents any sudden increase"):

As for diff upgrades, the most popular is the OS Giken Super Lock LSD - quiet when in operation, 100% lock-up and at a reasonable price, as opposed to Nismo's Carbon LSD.

OS Giken - Super Lock LSD - Nissan Skyline R33 GTR - Differentials - Drivetrain - streettuned.com.au - Car Parts | Performance Parts | Accessories & More!

Note that if you own a R33 GT-R VSpec, that comes standard with the active differential, you don't have much options when upgrading, hence the reason why I bought a standard R33 GT-R.

Not to split hairs for I have not much to go around But in all seriousness, my question was more for like people like you and me with street GTRs and suddenly diff calls it quits what do most people do? Not many people seem to want to mess around with aftermarket diffs yet stock diffs aren't exactly abundant.

Hence my question was partly my search for a solution :wavey:

 

[DarkChild]

Just to 'kacau'...

I'm running a RB26 with Garrett 2860-5's (which are of similar size to the HKS 2530's) with a set of Poncams Type B (260 9.15 lift in/ex).

They work fine for me...

 

[[PIMPIN]]

Just to 'kacau'...

I'm running a RB26 with Garrett 2860-5's (which are of similar size to the HKS 2530's) with a set of Poncams Type B (260 9.15 lift in/ex).

They work fine for me...

Fine for when you go down to 7-11, go futsal etc.

Because when you want real speed all you need to do is pick up your Ferrari/Zonda/Lambo keys instead bro