Test: Q8 Oils and Lubegard

huakenny

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kethon27 said:
I've been seeing this brand for such a long time but never know what so special with it. Whats the different comparing those Shell expensive oil?
It is working for old car like 1991 Saga? Which type of Q8 engine oil suitable for it?
One thing i do not understand, what is that "LubeGard" actually use for, and the purpose? It is needed to pour in as well together with the Q8 engine oil?Advice please..
Thanks
old saga gotta use mineral based engine oil...somehow using synthetic oil will causing engine to lose oil in a short time due ot old engine. tear n wear of it...

Lubeguard is a brand of oil additive, not necessary to add together but suggested.
 

NeoG

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Hi HuaKenny,
how about a 11yrs old honda civic (EG)? izit also suggested same as SAGA?
 

huakenny

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NeoG said:
Hi HuaKenny,
how about a 11yrs old honda civic (EG)? izit also suggested same as SAGA?
my EG9 is running fully syn until today...no problem at all..

if u r using synthetic based oil in ur car, then it is no problem for u to use Q8 synthetic based oil....

but if ur EG is running at mineral oil, and u wish to use Q8 synthetic based. let's say 10w40 partial syn..

so u hv to check ur engine oil level once in a few days....if the oil level is maintain n didnt decrease...then it is good to use.....

but if the engine oil level is decreasing everytime u check, mean u hv to use back mineral based....coz of engine wear n tear...

just my2cent...correct me if im wrong
 

gorjothong

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tufoil has molybdenum and PTFE(teflon),both insoluble.It remains in the engine and there for promote formation of sludge.Lubegard is an esther extract which is derived from flaxseed oil.
 

FocalPoint

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<TABLE id=HB_Mail_Container height="100%" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" border=0 UNSELECTABLE="on"><TBODY><TR height="100%" UNSELECTABLE="on" width="100%"><TD id=HB_Focus_Element vAlign=top width="100%" background="" height=250 UNSELECTABLE="off">Tufoil does not cause sludge formation. Poor quality motor oils that cannot take high operating temperatures, extended vehicle idling, short stop-n-go driving patterns and long oil change intervals are some of the causes.

With 12 international patents awarded for its technology, Tufoil is a serious product with R & D. Hence, please do not say anything without basis.
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huakenny

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cybreed said:
but essentially both tufoil & lubeguard work the same way right?
both are oil additive....

but wat the ingredient for each to make it so special. no body wil know...the best way is to try out urself to get the true n only answer...


hehe
 

mr_av82

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my motor oil is better....you can flush away it all after fuelling it and run the engine for 30 minutes. Then you can drive the car without motor oil for whole day without damaging the engine...it have been tested. I wonder Q8 have this type of testing with his oil?? hehehe
 

huakenny

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mr_av82 said:
my motor oil is better....you can flush away it all after fuelling it and run the engine for 30 minutes. Then you can drive the car without motor oil for whole day without damaging the engine...it have been tested. I wonder Q8 have this type of testing with his oil?? hehehe
excuse me.....one of the function of lubrication is to reduce ur engine heat temp...

no oil, how to reduce?

how u know it didnt damage? u dismantle ur engine n check the components inside?

btw, the car is urs..u can continue doing tat.

good luck bro
 

FocalPoint

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<TABLE id=HB_Mail_Container height="100%" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" border=0 UNSELECTABLE="on"><TBODY><TR height="100%" UNSELECTABLE="on" width="100%"><TD id=HB_Focus_Element vAlign=top width="100%" background="" height=250 UNSELECTABLE="off">Tufoil was tested by The National Institute of Standards and Technology ( NIST ), an agency of the US government. The coefficient of friction was found to be only 0.029.

It also has ester as an ingredient for those who are curious.

The highly-acclaimed results were only achieved after some 10 years of R & D.However, today Tufoil remains the most tested oil additive ( also tested by POPULAR MECHANICS magazine for a 2 year period ) and yet it is the least commercial of any known brand.

Frank Reick, the inventor once said " But Fluoramics did make one mistake. We did not go in for fancy packaging early on. I was more concerned with the technology". For those who had seen the old Tufoil video clips in the stores, you would have come face to face with its off-beat round white bottle that are often used in hospitals and clinics. Well, Frank was quite frank to talk about this years later.

For the record Tufoil has been around for about 25 years already.
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kethon27

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huakenny said:
old saga gotta use mineral based engine oil...somehow using synthetic oil will causing engine to lose oil in a short time due ot old engine. tear n wear of it...

Lubeguard is a brand of oil additive, not necessary to add together but suggested.
Basically the car running smooth and still responsive on how my right leg act but there is a problem with it after a nite..Every morning i start the engine(with cold temperture), it sounds like dying, and straight away driving it, it wont response even i push the pedal max but everything is fine after roughly about 3 minutes.

Now everyday before i start to drive, i rev the engine for a while...

So is there any type of Q8's product range which is mineral based engine oil which have the similiar performance with the other Q8's product?And any product to cure my car's 1st ignition every morning? Or others suggestion?:cyclops:
Thanks!
 

huakenny

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kethon27 said:
Basically the car running smooth and still responsive on how my right leg act but there is a problem with it after a nite..Every morning i start the engine(with cold temperture), it sounds like dying, and straight away driving it, it wont response even i push the pedal max but everything is fine after roughly about 3 minutes.

Now everyday before i start to drive, i rev the engine for a while...

So is there any type of Q8's product range which is mineral based engine oil which have the similiar performance with the other Q8's product?And any product to cure my car's 1st ignition every morning? Or others suggestion?:cyclops:
Thanks!
nothing to do wit oil if u said like tat, sounds like ur auto choke is gone...tat y car seems to be dying during cold start n behave normal after it reach normal temp.
 
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Mixing Mineral and Synthetic oils - the old and busted concepts

For the longest time, I had this to say about mixing mineral and synthetic oils:

If you've been driving around with mineral oil in your engine for years, don't switch to synthetic oil without preparation. Synthetic oils have been known to dislodge the baked-on deposits from mineral oils and leave them floating around your engine - not good. I learned this lesson the hard way! It's wise to use a flushing oil first.
If you do decide to change, only go up the scale. If you've been running around on synthetic, don't change down to a mineral-based oil - your engine might not be able to cope with the degradation in lubrication. Consequently, if you've been using mineral oil, try a semi or a full synthetic oil. By degradation, I'm speaking of the wear tolerances that an engine develops based on the oil that it's using. Thicker mineral oils mean thicker layers of oil coating the moving parts (by microns though). Switching to a thinner synthetic oil can cause piston rings to leak and in some very rare cases, piston slap or crank vibration.
Gaskets and seals! With the makeup of synthetic oils being different from mineral oils, mineral-oil-soaked gaskets and seals have been known to leak when exposed to synthetic oils. Perhaps not that common an occurrence, but worth bearing in mind nevertheless.

Mixing Mineral and Synthetic oils - the new hotness

That's the thing with progress - stuff becomes out-of-date. Fortunately for you, dear reader, the web is a great place to keep things up-to-date, so here's the current thinking on the subject of mixing mineral and synthetic oils. This information is based on the answer to a technical question posed on the Shell Oil website.
There is no scientific data to support the idea that mixing mineral and synthetic oils will damage your engine. When switching from a mineral oil to a synthetic, or vice versa, you will potentially leave a small amount of residual oil in the engine. That's perfectly okay because synthetic oil and mineral-based motor oil are, for the most part, compatible with each other. (The exception is pure synetics. Polyglycols don't mix with normal mineral oils.)
There is also no problem with switching back and forth between synthetic and mineral based oils. In fact, people who are "in the know" and who operate engines in areas where temperature fluctuations can be especially extreme, switch from mineral oil to synthetic oil for the colder months. They then switch back to mineral oil during the warmer months.
There was a time, years ago, when switching between synthetic oils and mineral oils was not recommended if you had used one product or the other for a long period of time. People experienced problems with seals leaking and high oil consumption but changes in additive chemistry and seal material have taken care of those issues. And that's an important caveat. New seal technology is great, but if you're still driving around in a car from the 80's with its original seals, then this argument becomes a bit of a moot point - your seals are still going to be subject to the old leakage problems no matter what newfangled additives the oil companies are putting in their products.
 

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