NO
Actually yes but not for our Proton at this age. This question has been asked 100 million times.
Actually yes but not for our Proton at this age. This question has been asked 100 million times.
sorry for asking this questionNO
Actually yes but not for our Proton at this age. This question has been asked 100 million times.
"SOHC has better low-end torque because the valvetrain package is lighter while DOHC has better top-end power."what so amazing and 'best' with twin cam?
Having independent camshafts for both intake and exhaust valves allows engineers and tuners to change the valve angle separation, to enable extraction of desired performance characteristic, fuel economy and emission level."SOHC has better low-end torque because the valvetrain package is lighter while DOHC has better top-end power."
Source: http://paultan.org/2005/06/22/sohc-vs-dohc-valvetrains/
Im not sure which would be better for turbo engine especial for the bolt on turbo.
Thanks manHaving independent camshafts for both intake and exhaust valves allows engineers and tuners to change the valve angle separation, to enable extraction of desired performance characteristic, fuel economy and emission level.
(In the perspective of 4G1 engines for our Protons) For application without variable valve timing/lift, a stick of purposely engineered camshaft for SOHC out performs any poorly designed/tuned DOHC, offering better low-end torque yet comparable high-end performance.
Everyone knows that, at todays technology with variable valve timing/lift, DOHC is always better than SOHC, either for NA or forced induction application.
However, if we are discussing in the context of 4G1 series (as teh title says), think budget and feasibility, don't day dream for the 'best', otherwise buy another car and work on your budget for a bigger dream.
that very big dream....Thanks man
My dream car is nissan r35 gtr, but dont have the $$$$$$$ to buy it.
err.. checked through internet, the one i use is Toyota Long Life Coolant, 1 litre, ethylene glycol base, should works fine on my aluminum radiatorErm... Toyota coolant? Red colour issit? Better make sure it's compatible with your radiator otherwise you'll end up with more leaking problems again. Stock radiator supposed to use the Glycol based coolants (green colour).
As for the pricing, it's fine. You did quite a lot of things so it's to be expected.
As for some of the things done though, I would've opted to change all 4 engine mountings one go so at least you know they'll have even wear and tear on all 4 mounts rather than have one brand new mount and 3 old ones.
Conrod, thermostat, etc ---> Are they new ones or just take out to service? If new then fine. If take out and clean, wth is with the price???
Btw, since you just got new piston rings, rev the crap out of the car. Then when it's time to change oil (usually 1000km for running-in oil) go for a good semi 10W40 or 5W40. Make sure you change oil filter and if you can afford it, engine flush before you plonk in final fill oil. Pennzoil fully syn 5W40 or semi 5W30 also is good.
The fella didn't change your oil seals and gaskets? I assuming he did?
Btw, tappet noise can be fixed by adjusting the tappet itself after you finish running in the engine. It won't have too much wear and tear unless it was adjusted too tight in the 1st place. Just bear with the noise first then adjust the tappets together with your oil change after 1k running in.
Well, if your coolant isn't red in colour, I guess its fine kwa.err.. checked through internet, the one i use is Toyota Long Life Coolant, 1 litre, ethylene glycol base, should works fine on my aluminum radiator
http://www.nbt-brunei.com/part/knowledge/coolant/
i'll change the rest 3 mountings in next few months, probably together with brakes and suspension, now the car still vibrates, cant see any difference after changing 1 mounting
for conrod shell and thermostat, yes they are new one, also the gaskets, rubbers, valve seals and oil seals is included
about the engine oil, my car has done 2.5k :s: i wasn't told it needs to be changed after 1k, probably this weekend will get it changed and re-adjust the tappet, really feel like wanna hantam the mechanic now
Erm.. BOT wor. That's a lot of torque and BHP gain. of course can out pace a DOHC la.Well I believe with a proper modification and everything right SOHC BOT can ease past the DOHC on low end torque especially on the pickup
currently im doing a project with a friend on a 4G15 SVDO BOTWell, if your coolant isn't red in colour, I guess its fine kwa.
As for the run-in period, I don't see a problem with 2.5k but since you changed the rings, better to swap out the oil if you've already run in the car and re-adjust the tappets. Good luck dude.
Once you're done come join the 4G1s forum and start modding your car with all the other gila babis in there.
---------- Post added at 12:51 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 12:49 PM ----------
Erm.. BOT wor. That's a lot of torque and BHP gain. of course can out pace a DOHC la.
In terms of cost vs practicality DOHC engine conversion is a lot easier. But who wants things easier anyway? BOT on SOHC is a lot more fun.
no wonder you two never come for TT. hahahcurrently im doing a project with a friend on a 4G15 SVDO BOT
hopefully the outcome will be satisfying as the whole engine already sent for overhauling, port and polish, brand new low compression piston just arrived yesterday, serviced GSR injectors and so on..