Perdana v6 : Road to 300whp.... and beyond

marsha1l_v6

500 RPM
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Aug 1, 2013
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ouch my neck... Where was this dyno done? Dyno dynamics? Mainline?
:adore: upload using hp...exercise neck abit...or pusing your monitor..hahaha

dynojet..if minus 15% due to dynojet infamous giving extra ponnies...it is where i expect it would be:driver:..

however, will go 2nd opinion on april..:driver:
 

marsha1l_v6

500 RPM
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Aug 1, 2013
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Maybe half cut engine was modded before? Like my first engine had shaved header......:driver:
during top overhaul everything looks normal..hoping to get forged conrod or performance part in engine block..hahaha..

when my cap ayam wastegate fail to operate...few time overboost to 1.1-1.3 bar and survived..:driver:
 

Nightstalker1993

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Aug 30, 2010
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Dyno chart....

Didn't expect this much hp.. Was expecting 24xhp at 1bar.. :smokin:

However fd2 dyno before me get 11x - 13xhp..doesn't show this dyno is 'ringan'..

Anyway another dyno run at April to confirm.. 2nd opinion they say:nurse:
Wow, that's really good power man! Minimal torque dropoff throughout the rev range a,d steady increase in HP. I think the HP would continue to rise and torque would be flatter if you can keep your boost more flat and consistent. Boost SEEMS to have dropped slightly after 4500-5000rpm. I guess for my own car as well I should be expecting as much power as yours as well once I up boost. Mine have lower cc but I make up in RPM :biggrin:

What supporting mods and turbo you have for your engine btw if you were to make a quick list?

Also earlier you showed the Motul LSD gear oil, are you sure that is compatible with your gearbox as AFAIK most Mitsubishi gearboxes including the Evo gearbox requires GL-4 oil and the Motul LSD gear oil you showed is a GL-5 oil. GL-5 oil in theory will attack and cause excessive wear on the brass synchros on our gearboxes.

during top overhaul everything looks normal..hoping to get forged conrod or performance part in engine block..hahaha..

when my cap ayam wastegate fail to operate...few time overboost to 1.1-1.3 bar and survived..:driver:
Aiks... You better get that checked out man, overboost too much later engine pecah o... Btw, what ECU you using again?

Last time my friend bought a 'racing' 4E-FTE engine and after a year of using it only we realized it had Pauter X-Beam conrods in it, when he took down the oil sump to fix a leak :rofl:
 
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marsha1l_v6

500 RPM
Thread starter
Aug 1, 2013
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543
Kuala Lumpur
Wow, that's really good power man! Minimal torque dropoff throughout the rev range a,d steady increase in HP. I think the HP would continue to rise and torque would be flatter if you can keep your boost more flat and consistent. Boost SEEMS to have dropped slightly after 4500-5000rpm. I guess for my own car as well I should be expecting as much power as yours as well once I up boost. Mine have lower cc but I make up in RPM :biggrin:

What supporting mods and turbo you have for your engine btw if you were to make a quick list?

Also earlier you showed the Motul LSD gear oil, are you sure that is compatible with your gearbox as AFAIK most Mitsubishi gearboxes including the Evo gearbox requires GL-4 oil and the Motul LSD gear oil you showed is a GL-5 oil. GL-5 oil in theory will attack and cause excessive wear on the brass synchros on our gearboxes.



Aiks... You better get that checked out man, overboost too much later engine pecah o... Btw, what ECU you using again?

Last time my friend bought a 'racing' 4E-FTE engine and after a year of using it only we realized it had Pauter X-Beam conrods in it, when he took down the oil sump to fix a leak :rofl:
i was conservative on the rpm..ask the tuner to go max 7-7.5k :rofl: since otr i shift at 6.3k..refering to other forum or e3 spec sheet..hahaha..

yup..boost drop abit..learning to use the scg1 boost controller, quite a number of run did yesterday...will set proper gain to avoid boost drop..

nothing much of a mod done..if you can see from 1st page,my engine bay..thats the mod i done..others is replacing wear and tear item since it is from halfcut. like spark plug cable, plug, belt etc..gearbox rebuild ,not using metal gasket..and internal engine is bone stock..i didnt check much on the gl part...only the oil weight..hahaha..but feel better to shift..i'll check back the maintenance manual.

last time overboost using stock ecu..and wastegate didnt open when it should, so no wastegate praaaa sound ++boost is spiking until ignition cutoff due to overboost..

hopefully i'll hit a jackpot inside the block like your friend...forged piston with arp screw also i dont mind...happy already :rofl: :love:
 

Nightstalker1993

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Aug 30, 2010
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i was conservative on the rpm..ask the tuner to go max 7-7.5k :rofl: since otr i shift at 6.3k..refering to other forum or e3 spec sheet..hahaha..

yup..boost drop abit..learning to use the scg1 boost controller, quite a number of run did yesterday...will set proper gain to avoid boost drop..

nothing much of a mod done..if you can see from 1st page,my engine bay..thats the mod i done..others is replacing wear and tear item since it is from halfcut. like spark plug cable, plug, belt etc..gearbox rebuild ,not using metal gasket..and internal engine is bone stock..i didnt check much on the gl part...only the oil weight..hahaha..but feel better to shift..i'll check back the maintenance manual.

last time overboost using stock ecu..and wastegate didnt open when it should, so no wastegate praaaa sound ++boost is spiking until ignition cutoff due to overboost..

hopefully i'll hit a jackpot inside the block like your friend...forged piston with arp screw also i dont mind...happy already :rofl: :love:
Pretty good power considering near stock engine with only up boost. You did this run on 3rd gear I'm assuming? Can see the difference in performance between your Evo 3 turbo and my Evo 6 twin scroll turbo, on my engine I can hit 0.8bar by 3500-4000rpm on my 1.8L.

Would really suggest you to change the oil out as from what I gathered the Evo uses GL-4 just like in most Mitsubishis, and GL-5 oil will attack the synchros in gearboxes requiring GL-4. Probably flush it twice with cheap oil first before putting in a good GL-4 oil.
 

marsha1l_v6

500 RPM
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Aug 1, 2013
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Pretty good power considering near stock engine with only up boost. You did this run on 3rd gear I'm assuming? Can see the difference in performance between your Evo 3 turbo and my Evo 6 twin scroll turbo, on my engine I can hit 0.8bar by 3500-4000rpm on my 1.8L.

Would really suggest you to change the oil out as from what I gathered the Evo uses GL-4 just like in most Mitsubishis, and GL-5 oil will attack the synchros in gearboxes requiring GL-4. Probably flush it twice with cheap oil first before putting in a good GL-4 oil.
gear 3 n 4...either one.. Lost track because focus on the boost and thought on engine blown... Hahaha.. Twin scroll should perform better right..

I'll chge it nxt EO interval... What's ur recommended oil? Redline? :driver:
 

Nightstalker1993

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Aug 30, 2010
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Heh, go open sump. Ada sikit Scratch and Win atmosphere.
then instead get sad sight of sludge building up instead :puke:

gear 3 n 4...either one.. Lost track because focus on the boost and thought on engine blown... Hahaha.. Twin scroll should perform better right..

I'll chge it nxt EO interval... What's ur recommended oil? Redline? :driver:
Yeah Twin scroll in theory performs better, which is why Evo 4 and above all twin scroll already. I personally am using Amsoil GL-4 synthetic oil 75w90 but not for any specific reason, just because it's a synthetic oil from a trusted brand and my workshop carries it. Not easy to find performance GL-4 gear oil.
 

Nightstalker1993

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Mine edi dapat scratch and win when my enjin lantai came. Paid for Mivec 4g92 engine, came Mivec RS 4g92 with titanium intake valves, Cusco LSD huhu
 

gunnerzz

2,000 RPM
Jul 3, 2014
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Reading this thread makes me think getting 300whp is easy...swap to the 'capable' engine and give it a tad 'pursuasion' or motivation to reach the figure.
 

marsha1l_v6

500 RPM
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Aug 1, 2013
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t... Amsoil GL-4 synthetic oil 75w90 but not for any specific reason, just because it's a synthetic oil from a trusted brand and my workshop carries it. Not easy to find performance GL-4 gear oil.
mind telling me where is your workshop located at?

Heh, go open sump. Ada sikit Scratch and Win atmosphere.
Wow... Damn I so syok.
Mana tau my gsr from Libero ada scratch n win too... Hahahah
my mechanic also dont know internal block yet...hahaha..

Mine edi dapat scratch and win when my enjin lantai came. Paid for Mivec 4g92 engine, came Mivec RS 4g92 with titanium intake valves, Cusco LSD huhu
jackpot..
Reading this thread makes me think getting 300whp is easy...swap to the 'capable' engine and give it a tad 'pursuasion' or motivation to reach the figure.
behind the scene is different story...hahaha:bawling:

using post #103 as reference, fellow pac_jb using perdana evo3 too...11.2% different on his dyno reading..i reckon my actual whp is 252.8, it is where i expect it to be at 1bar..
 

Nightstalker1993

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Aug 30, 2010
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mind telling me where is your workshop located at?





my mechanic also dont know internal block yet...hahaha..



jackpot..


behind the scene is different story...hahaha:bawling:

using post #103 as reference, fellow pac_jb using perdana evo3 too...11.2% different on his dyno reading..i reckon my actual whp is 252.8, it is where i expect it to be at 1bar..
Well, honestly all dyno's from different brands reads differently, whether it due to calibration from factory or the way it calculates power etc, even dyno's of same brands by different operator can read different readings, and some operator even do that on purpose. HP readings should only be a reference for yourself and comparing improvements on your own car after certain mods etc but most people just use it for bragging rights. What you should do is to stick to the same dyno if you want to get an accurate representation of relative power and you will be good. Dyno isn't just about testing power but also to aid in tuning and dyno's with load holding capabilities(eddy current) will help a tuner tune your car way better than if it was just an inertia dyno(big roller, lowest end DynoJet).

My workshop is in Subang Jaya
 

marsha1l_v6

500 RPM
Thread starter
Aug 1, 2013
666
130
543
Kuala Lumpur
Well, honestly all dyno's from different brands reads differently, whether it due to calibration from factory or the way it calculates power etc, even dyno's of same brands by different operator can read different readings, and some operator even do that on purpose. HP readings should only be a reference for yourself and comparing improvements on your own car after certain mods etc but most people just use it for bragging rights. What you should do is to stick to the same dyno if you want to get an accurate representation of relative power and you will be good. Dyno isn't just about testing power but also to aid in tuning and dyno's with load holding capabilities(eddy current) will help a tuner tune your car way better than if it was just an inertia dyno(big roller, lowest end DynoJet).

My workshop is in Subang Jaya
Alright.. Thx bro... Stage 2 will commence q4 if all is well :love:
 

marsha1l_v6

500 RPM
Thread starter
Aug 1, 2013
666
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Kuala Lumpur
WhatsApp Image 2018-03-08 at 14.48.19 (2).jpeg
Car back to workshop again. :bawling:

This time, to finalize drive terrain mod.

After installing slip differential in gbox, couple of days later it is leaking fluid. initially thought it was the oil seal, since it is worn out, oil seal changed but few days later, it is leaked again. So left to mechanic for a week.

Long story short, once plonk in slip differential, u need original 4g63 drive shaft left(with hanger) and right. Now car equipped with solid driveshaft which can support more than my targeted hp :congrats::driver::burnout:

WhatsApp Image 2018-03-08 at 14.48.19 (2).jpeg
 

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