honda prelude

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hisha

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hisha

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skyhawkheng said:
Actually I just wan to list out our Team !!! :shades_smile: seems like we have around 15 luders !!! great!!
bro ...looks like we 4get to hv a team name woh~~ hehehe :_:
 

mrbear

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mrbear

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JuizeeeBrain said:
no problem at all master sifu bear, i definitely c u tonite. can come earlier ah, say around 930?

ohhh IBM, then we r neighbours oredi. me at DHL juz diagonally opp maybank only. tell u, u will def love cyberjaya man. four-five lanes wide, 180kmj... no prob!! u know wot i mean??!!
tiuuuuuuuuuuuu... uuu

very near.. walk oso can .. heheh.. i meet u at traffic light.. at 6pm sharp.. we sprint till puchong tol.. hehehe.. u know wot i mean?

weh.. i think i like the road which we are going back .. (not the road coming 2 cyber.. kinda downhill) .. i like the going back road which after lim kok wing traffic light.. which kinda has S type corner road .. u know that road? i feel very syiok woo
 

mrbear

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mrbear

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hisha said:
Mr bear y want to adjust higher than 5000 ? i heard somebody said the original spec the VTEC fully open at 5800....but mine is start open at 4000++ n fully on5000 feels not bad too woh ~~mayb our H22A torque power enough...:shades_smile:

the reason i wanted to adjust from 5000rpm till some certain point of vtec (not lowering the vtec point) is bcoz i think that its like.. VTEC opens too early.. last time when my VTEC (speed sensor problem) check light on.. i feel that without VTEC seems like faster n u can feel the syiok.. (without vtec on) + (that time VTEC cannot activate)

summore its auto k? .. then let say u wanna some power.. u tekan minyak... then suddenly at 5000k VTEC open.. aiyo.. ( i know more syiok if open) but think that wanna let the vtec plays at higher rpm above 5000k before rpm cut offs.. let say around 5800? 6000 oso can..

have anyone tried when VTEC cannot be activated? (or let say disable it) .. it feels different + ur fuel oso didnt drop a bar or two at all when revving higher speed.

its my point of view guys
 

hisha

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hisha

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mrbear said:
the reason i wanted to adjust from 5000rpm till some certain point of vtec (not lowering the vtec point) is bcoz i think that its like.. VTEC opens too early.. last time when my VTEC (speed sensor problem) check light on.. i feel that without VTEC seems like faster n u can feel the syiok.. (without vtec on) + (that time VTEC cannot activate)

summore its auto k? .. then let say u wanna some power.. u tekan minyak... then suddenly at 5000k VTEC open.. aiyo.. ( i know more syiok if open) but think that wanna let the vtec plays at higher rpm above 5000k before rpm cut offs.. let say around 5800? 6000 oso can..

have anyone tried when VTEC cannot be activated? (or let say disable it) .. it feels different + ur fuel oso didnt drop a bar or two at all when revving higher speed.

its my point of view guys
i can understand what u said ...actually that's not VTEC speed sensor...is our speedo meter speed sensor ...cos that 1 will send signal to ECU....VTEC solenoid valve will not operate when the ECU didn't get the speed sensor signal (i heard is over 70km/h),...RPM signal (depend on ECU setting) ..and VTEC will not b activate on low oil pressure too ...

in market got 1 type of high cam called VTEC killer 1 ...that's mean the engine with VTEC will fully using high cam n VTEC functionless ....the MUGEN EP3 track car that K20A is without the Vtec function 1 ...this will more powerful than VTEC cos using hi-cam all the way ...not like VTEC...low-cam 1st 5800 then Hi-cam....:shades_smile:
 

mrbear

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mrbear

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the prob is VSS .. Vehicle Speed Sensor! .. sorry for typo "VTEC sensor"

solved the prob b4 .. coz very2 low oil pressure .. sumthing like stucking,choking,burpp.. hehe

that's y the check engine light + vtec cannot open = low oil pressure (minyak hitam)
 
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hisha

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hisha

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mrbear said:
the prob is VSS .. Vehicle Speed Sensor! .. sorry for typo "VTEC sensor"

solved the prob b4 .. coz very2 low oil pressure .. sumthing like stucking,choking,burpp.. hehe

that's y the check engine light + vtec cannot open = low oil pressure (minyak hitam)
right right ..i also 4got the name hahaha ...is Vehicle Speed Sensor ..hahaha ..the thing i study already all giving back to the lecturer already hahaha ..how yesterday TT ? nice ah ? got taking pic ?
 

mrbear

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hisha said:
right right ..i also 4got the name hahaha ...is Vehicle Speed Sensor ..hahaha ..the thing i study already all giving back to the lecturer already hahaha ..how yesterday TT ? nice ah ? got taking pic ?
hehe ya correct .. i oso fogot .. VSS code 17 ..

wah .. got .. take picture.. thomas/skyhawk bring his digital camera.. but dunno he snapp not .. coz he bz snap his own car picture.. :mouth_closed:
 

mrbear

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HONDA PRELUDE VTEC 4WS BUYERS GUIDE

Apart from the usual checks which you should carry out when buying any second hand car, there are some areas on the Prelude which are worth a special look out for. Let me first say that these cars are built to a very high standard, and the panels should fit with a high degree of fit and finish. If you are considering a car which is anything but, then you can assume that it has been neglected and probably had accident damage of some sort which has not been repaired to a high standard. I would look elsewhere for another example. If looked after, and serviced regularly, these cars are good for several 100 thousand miles. My 1995 model has just reached 100k miles, and I consider it to run as good if not better than the day I got her with 60k miles. I have not had one failure of any component either electrical, or mechanical. All, I have done is regular oil and filter changes, and replaced the exhaust for a performance stainless steel one. As part of preventive maintenance I had the clutch replaced at 98k miles, even though it was not slipping. It was just getting heavy.

RUST

Most of the panels and main structural chassis parts are galvanized from new, so rust is not usually a problem. The area which needs attention is usually the trailing edge of the rear wheel arches. Road grime collects there and eventually the first signs of rust start here. This is easily repaired though. The only other area is the window strips along the back window, and the rear quarter glass. These tend to look grubby, with some sort of surface corrosion. A regularly looked after car will not have these problems.

MECHANICALS

These engines are bullet proof. With good servicing they last a long, long time. But, check for blue smoke on startup, and when engaging VTEC @ 5000rpm and above. You might notice black smoke (rich fuelling, which is normal in VTEC) but not blue. Blue is bad. This will mean either worn rings, or cylinder bores. The blue smoke on startup is probably worn valve guides, and/or valve stem steals.

If you dare, and you can find somewhere to test this ( without speeding on a public road), you should try to change gear from 4th to 5th at high engine revs. i.e in VTEC in 4th (above 5k rpms) and change quickly into 5th gear. If it is smooth, then great. If it grinds, or worse won't shift up, then you have developed the 5th gear selector fork problem. This is a known fault which still affects some Accord Type-R models. It is something you will have to live with or pay to get fixed.(££!)

Only other things which I have heard of eventually needing replacing are the rear wheel bearings. These come ONLY as a complete hub and are available from ADL Blueprint at a much cheaper price than Honda. Try £110 compared with £300+ each!! It might be worth asking if the wheel bearings have been replaced already. N.B. Some noise which sounds like worn wheel bearings on the Prelude, can actually be traced to certain tyres. One known tyre to avoid because of this is the Avon ZV1 205/55/15. This is ok when new, but once well worn, creates this wheel bearing type noise which is actually caused by the tyre tread. Changing the tyres eliminates this. It happened to me.

4WS

Check that the light for the 4WS illuminates when you switch on the ignition. If it doesn't, then someone could be hiding a known fault with the system. Check that the fuse for the 4WS is in the fuse box, and that the bulb has not blown or been removed. Once you start the car, after a few seconds the yellow 4WS light should go out. With the engine running, open your car door, and turn the steering wheel, and watch for the rear wheels moving. If they are, then get going on your test drive, if the light remains on and the rear wheels are not turning then try the 4ws reset procedure detailed here

VTEC

The VTEC system will only engage when the car has fully warmed up. So don't go for a test drive and immediately expect the VTEC system to kick in. You should not be thrashing any car whilst it is still cold, and the Prelude is clever enough to disable the system until at least:-

1. It has reached a safe operating temperature

2. There is sufficient oil pressure for safe high rpm VTEC action.

The VTEC system is a ultra reliable system where two profiles exist on the same camshaft which the ecu can engage. Below about 5k rpms a high torque "normal" profile is active. Above 5k rpms a second high lift/duration profile on each camshaft is switched over, which provides a lot more power, and should be easily felt by a sudden surge in acceleration. The engine now is in "VTEC" and pull strongly all the way to at least 7,200rpm (limiter about 7600rpm). Once revs drop below the 5k switching point the "normal" camshaft profiles begin to operate again. This gives the engine a dual personality, and a big fan base. It should be obvious if the VTEC system is not working.

AIR CONDITIONING

I am only mentioning this because when I bought my Prelude, the air conditioning controls worked but I got no cold air. On investigation, I found that a electrical connector near the bottom of the radiator, had come apart. It was connected to the switch on the compressor. When reconnected, the compressors clutch actually engaged and I got cold air.
 

StrikerX

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StrikerX

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skyhawkheng said:
1) Team 4LUDE
2) PowerLude Club
3) RacingLude Community
4) Luderpower
5) Preludeforce
6) Ludesport Team
7) HPTeam or HPT
8) Tornadoz
9) Holylights
10) BlazingWheelz
11) AncientRiderz
12) PreludeHeat
13) Duke of Prelude
14) Ludemos = Prelude Motorsport
15) 92Luders
16) Luders
17) Generation 4
18) 4GLuders
19) HPPT (Honda Prelude Performance Team)
20) HyperLudes
21) The Absoludes
22) Forth Luders Club


Hi all,
it is time for us to vote our team name!!

i suggest 2....i choosse it cos short n simple....make sticker n stick,,also easy for website (www.team_hp4g.net) ?? nice ?? wat u guys think ??
sure damn "cun".....thomas...faster decide n form the club lor...

23) Team HP4G (honda prelude 4th generation) --> simple n reflects our babies !!
24) 4GLudesRuleZ --> sound like very lan c....hahaha
 

hisha

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hisha

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StrikerX said:
Originally Posted by skyhawkheng
1) Team 4LUDE
2) PowerLude Club
3) RacingLude Community
4) Luderpower
5) Preludeforce
6) Ludesport Team
7) HPTeam or HPT
8) Tornadoz
9) Holylights
10) BlazingWheelz
11) AncientRiderz
12) PreludeHeat
13) Duke of Prelude
14) Ludemos = Prelude Motorsport
15) 92Luders
16) Luders
17) Generation 4
18) 4GLuders
19) HPPT (Honda Prelude Performance Team)
20) HyperLudes
21) The Absoludes
22) Forth Luders Club


Hi all,
it is time for us to vote our team name!!
i suggest 2....i choosse it cos short n simple....make sticker n stick,,also easy for website (www.team_hp4g.net) ?? nice ?? wat u guys think ??
sure damn "cun".....thomas...faster decide n form the club lor...

23) Team HP4G (honda prelude 4th generation) --> simple n reflects our babies !!
24) 4GLudesRuleZ --> sound like very lan c....hahaha
this is the name i suggest :

25) 4thLUDER inc - sounds like an in-coporate hehehe:_:
 

mrbear

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mrbear

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damn my extractor manifold crack / bocor.. mmmm :(

anyone got 4x2x1 manifold .. pls let me know.. i wanna buy .. ASAP
 

hisha

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hisha

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mrbear said:
HP4G sounds good!
HP4G not bad..its shirt n easy ..but just sounds like HPOC la...we got to think so special 1 ...n easy remember ...:shades_smile:
 

hisha

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hisha

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mrbear said:
damn my extractor manifold crack / bocor.. mmmm :(

anyone got 4x2x1 manifold .. pls let me know.. i wanna buy .. ASAP
the 4-2-1 manifold damn expensive 1 woh ....specially JASMA 1....the price will kill ppl ...i think it cost around few hundred last time i saw some1 selling around RM800.......mine also bocor..but don know where ..mayb a small hole ..or the welding place crack a bit ..just know there some exhaust gas came out there only ..but eye can't c the crack place..so don care la ...at least it still can b using no big deal ..:shades_smile:
 

mrbear

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mrbear

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hisha said:
the 4-2-1 manifold damn expensive 1 woh ....specially JASMA 1....the price will kill ppl ...i think it cost around few hundred last time i saw some1 selling around RM800.......mine also bocor..but don know where ..mayb a small hole ..or the welding place crack a bit ..just know there some exhaust gas came out there only ..but eye can't c the crack place..so don care la ...at least it still can b using no big deal ..:shades_smile:
yohuuuuu.. ive fix my prob! .. got 1 small2 hole near 4-2 joinin.. lucky can see from outside .. n weld from outside.. if not.. aihhh .. gila gila.. :shades_smile:

prob solved! .. no problem!

i call on wei yip .. asking.. they said got for prelude h22a .. rm260 .. 4x2x1 ..
good not?

HP4G sounds good! stylo
 

hisha

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hisha

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mrbear said:
yohuuuuu.. ive fix my prob! .. got 1 small2 hole near 4-2 joinin.. lucky can see from outside .. n weld from outside.. if not.. aihhh .. gila gila.. :shades_smile:

prob solved! .. no problem!

i call on wei yip .. asking.. they said got for prelude h22a .. rm260 .. 4x2x1 ..
good not?

HP4G sounds good! stylo
that RM260 was the local custome ? actually I recommend that using Japan ori FGK JASMA 4-2-1(not the local FGK) ... FGK is Fujitsubo short form...this 4-2-1 manifold help exhaust gas flow smooth n increase HP n torque power....but i think the JUN lemon Prelude was using the RS-R 4-2-1...i think it not bad too...

wei bro HP4G really sound liks HPOC ..we got to use other more special 1 la ...don want other ppl said we r the COPY CAT team hahahaha ..agree ? :shades_smile:
 

zaruliskandar

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zaruliskandar

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know what... i've just got an idea during the week end... to name the team... my idea is to give 4GP that stands for 4th Gen Prelude.. hehehehehe... sounds a bit like Grand Prix... hehehehehehhe... i'm also thinking of doing the design for the sticker.. got some rough idea already....

mr bear.. hows ur new job?? what time do go to work???
 

JuizeeeBrain

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hisha said:
that RM260 was the local custome ? actually I recommend that using Japan ori FGK JASMA 4-2-1(not the local FGK) ... FGK is Fujitsubo short form...this 4-2-1 manifold help exhaust gas flow smooth n increase HP n torque power....but i think the JUN lemon Prelude was using the RS-R 4-2-1...i think it not bad too...

wei bro HP4G really sound liks HPOC ..we got to use other more special 1 la ...don want other ppl said we r the COPY CAT team hahahaha ..agree ? :shades_smile:
i once checked wiz N1 for the fujitsubo header (header only and doesnt include the downpipe) and it costs around 2k ah.... shokkk or not?

bear, hows ur new environment? i drove slowly this morning to work leh, but din c u at all. u zooommed all the way to office izit?
 

hisha

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hisha

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JuizeeeBrain said:
i once checked wiz N1 for the fujitsubo header (header only and doesnt include the downpipe) and it costs around 2k ah.... shokkk or not?

bear, hows ur new environment? i drove slowly this morning to work leh, but din c u at all. u zooommed all the way to office izit?
not syok la ..is very syok hahaha ..2k ah~~ kill ppl ...hahaha but i'm using it now hahaha FGK JASMA full exhaust system but the rear muffler change to Trust already ..cos the FGK muffler already bocor inside .....this exhaust sys was come with the car 1 hahaha so i jsut spend RM320 to change the Trust muffler...:shades_smile:
 

hisha

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hisha

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any1 know where got sell the exhaust valve ?? i just found the Apexi 1 la ...damn expensive RM650++ ..now looking for the Taiwan product ...any1 know ?