yala 2.6cc ma...summore rotaryI got to know a new friend recently who owns a FC3S RX-7. According to him, his drive from KL to Ipoh using highway cost him RM100 for petrol. Quite a bad fuel consumption.
Haven't bought anything yet thankfully. Just checking out options & experienced reviews on the car. Aiming for a 2 seater RWD car. RWD would be the priority though. Really having a tough time looking for one. Sorry if i'm giving of bad vibes mate.
Trust me when I say you'll get burnt by the FD if you aren't prepared for it. To buy it's cheap RM70k thereabouts. Looks wise not many cars in that price bracket look that damn good. Power wise I personally like the twin turbo variant. And for 1.3L roadtax not much to pay for. But like what someone has said, maintenance especially the Apex seals will set you back easily 1k every two months (averaged out). Bloody fantastic car to drive but maintenance is not for the weak hearted and the empty wallet.Both of those two are completely out of my budget. Though aren't they basically the same car with different badges I miss the days when there were plenty of affordable RWD cars in the market.
Really? A FC that cheap? Road worthy?beemer e30 with SR20?
---------- Post added at 04:50 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:42 PM ----------
u thought savanna ah? that 1 rm2-5k can get.
Erm... 2.6L or 2.6cc? 2.6cc damn small wei. Pippette size.yala 2.6cc ma...summore rotary
Trust me when I say you'll get burnt by the FD if you aren't prepared for it. To buy it's cheap RM70k thereabouts. Looks wise not many cars in that price bracket look that damn good. Power wise I personally like the twin turbo variant. And for 1.3L roadtax not much to pay for. But like what someone has said, maintenance especially the Apex seals will set you back easily 1k every two months (averaged out). Bloody fantastic car to drive but maintenance is not for the weak hearted and the empty wallet.
And to make things worse, it's very very very hard to find a stock form manual FD. Autos I've come across 2 in ZTH but manuals are usually tricked out quite a bit and usually that means higher maintenance costs than stock.
Affordable RWD? Got ah. Innova, Unser, KE30, Silvia, BMW Z4, Starlet. I'm sure there's more but I can't think of them right now.
Really? A FC that cheap? Road worthy?
Erm... 2.6L or 2.6cc? 2.6cc damn small wei. Pippette size.
Agree with this, though I like 180SX better..heheWalaowei , RWD some more cheap... Top... Definitely Silvia lah.
No need to think. S14 S15 nice.
Fast And cheap. Banjir with spare part compared to your rx7.
Did you call or sms bro? Try calling. But from what I see on those goodies he is giving, I'm not sureLooked around for a decent Silvia, though not sure if I can maintain it. Let alone pay the petrol of a 2.0 litre...\
I'm refocusing my attention to the Satria Neo. Though i'm hunting for something like this Satria neo S2000 FLOAN 1.6 R3 with full BODYKIT - Cars for sale Kuala Lumpur - Mudah.my
Unfortunately the guy isn't responding...
Yea I called, and within the span of 20 seconds of starting the conversationt the dude just ran of to a meeting. Talk about timing, hahaha.Did you call or sms bro? Try calling. But from what I see on those goodies he is giving, I'm not sure
how true it is. Also S2000 Neo for sale? Really never heard of it before.
Best call to find out.
Your two cents!? Dude you sound like a rotary GODHere is my 2 cents on rotaries. I owned one for many years and moded them and take the advise from me.
1. Most rotaries will last any where from 25,000km to 120,000km. Depending on how its taken care of. At 100,000km the apex seal are quite worn already and it wont take much to break them.
2. If running turbo rotaries, change oil 1500-2500km. Because there is a shit load of fuel dilution to the oil even though it looks clean. With fuel diluted in the oil, it cannot lubricate well under stress and wear the seal. Even at 1000km take the dip stick out and smell the fuel, it'll smell like its been heavily mixed by petrol.
3. Never start and drive a rotary straight away (like we all do in piston cars) when its cold and engine oil is not up to temp. Its easy to break and wear the apex seals. Always allow it to idle to 60C before driving away and drive away GINGERLY shifting at 2500rpm and never drive in boost only at -200 vacume and drive until engine oil reaches 80C then only you can start driving normally and whack the car. Thus its 100% important to install an engine oil temp and boost gauge. You will notice when whacking engine oil will reach 110C very fast thus you need to cruise and cool down. Got money get a big oil cooler.
4. Normal driving in town can use mineral engine oil and on track days you can use fully syn.
5. Spark plugs have to change every 10,000km as they get worn and fouled up. The spark plugs fires 3x more vs regular 4 banger.
6. FC series engine, gets flooded easily and cannot fire up when hot. Like park car then shopping for 20mins then come back cannot fire up. You need to cut power to ecu or fuel pump crank engine for 10 sec and then power up ecu or fuel pump and it will start. Problem gets worse when the engine is old or worn as compression is even lower. Problem as been greatly minimized in the FD series about 99%.
7. Cooling is of maximum importance in rotaries, it will over heat if you don't take care. Don't get the auto version as the auto trans cooler is in the radiator (like all auto cars) and puts extra heat load on the cooling system even more. Thus get a manual or die die disconnect auto trans cooler and use an external oil cooler. More over the auto trans is not strong and cannot handle torture and anything more than 280hp reliably on both FC and FD.
8. If you buy RX7/8 get ready money for spare engine.
9. Basically its takes money, love and care with great amount of discipline to own a rotary.
If not better buy S13 or s15 silvia. Easy 350-400hp and can drive until the cows come home and potong kereta got plenty of spares and tuning shops are filled with all the SR20DET parts. Another option is Supra with 2JZ.
S15 and Supra can't really be compared with. But then if there is a budget, I would take S15 too. Performance wise, 3.0L Supra is indeed a monster if one can afford to turn it to one.Yea I called, and within the span of 20 seconds of starting the conversationt the dude just ran of to a meeting. Talk about timing, hahaha.
Good news is that my dad plans on chipping in so the Proton Satria Neo is completely out of the window. He likes quality...
So the budget is probably gonna go up though I'd like to put a max at RM100K.
I really like the Nissan Silvia S15 idea. Found one Nissan Silvia 2.0 R Type For Sale in Others by June Yong. What do you guys think?
Though, it would be nice to get a stock car so me and my dad can happily toy around with it.
If any other car suggestions are out there, these are an absolutely must:
1) Manual Transmission
2) Maintainence and moding parts must be decently available
3) RWD
I was also thinking of a Supra, but the car is a bit heavy. Would prefer the Nissan Silvia S15 over that.
Thanks so much guys, this community rocks!
Your two cents!? Dude you sound like a rotary GOD
Seriously appreaciate the time you took to lay this out for me. I knew a rotary was troublesome but wow..... that's really troublesome, hahaha
Anyone seen any other Nissan Silvia S15's out there for sale?