hurm now should i retard it? cause i tried before, if advance, good low end throttle respond, press then go when start from 1k rpm... but if u running slow, like not pressing the pedal and tun at 1k rpm in 1st gear, the car feel not comfort cause tend to go forward and backward continuously......if retard, comfort, when car is slow, no continuously forward and backward motion, but slow response when low rpm like u start to press pedal at 1k rpm at 1st gear... my situation now is at the advance condition, good response but not comfy when running slow in traffic jam condition
---------- Post added at 10:21 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:09 PM ----------
and bro, looked back to my dyno graph again, notice that my air fuel graph was smooth, just that during a rpm range of 400rpm, at my vtec engagement point, fuel suddenly run leaner as compared to the other, normal running between 11.6-12.5 :1 .... when in this few hundred of rpm, air fuel gone from 12.5 to 13-13.25:1 .. is it normal?
The car rocking backward forwards at low speed is due to mounts. check your rear mount. Probably broken. It's possibly ALSO related to how the car is tuned in the ECU maps, so when you advance, the timing at 1K is giving quite a bit of power, but it really shouldn't, at 800-1000K rpm in the ECU tables, better set a bit conservative because coasting will suffer when in gear at low speeds at 1K rpm. I used to set mine like that. It feels powerful, but it kills your rear engine mount.
Distributor timing should always follow the tuner recommendation. Original honda is 16 BTDC, but since nobody/most tuners DOESN'T do the short SCS connector/lock ignition timing before setting distributor to eliminate compensation by ECU, you guess is as good mine as how much to advance or retard, and you're also using v-pro, so I don't know what kind of ignition timing the ecu is pushing out as set by tuner. Using the regular non-adjustable timing light, what you should see is the ecu timing, honda crank only show TDC and 16deg mark, which is in between the three marking close together. so without a dial back from zero timing light (the adjustable type), can't really know what static ignition you're running at idle rpm
If you have a dial back from zero timing light, can try advance one degree at a time until you get that sweet spot. It's not the best solution, since the best is still tuner recommendation.
yes, at vtec engagement point, usually become lean a bit, the sudden crossover means that more air goes in, but it's not normal for a 'tuned' car as in vtec crossover, the ecu should be set to dump more fuel just before vtec opens to eliminate that lean spike. With N/A, i say forget it, no worries. 13.25 -14 momentarily at vtec crossover won't blow engines. With turbo, looks like your tune in the VPRO is not so good, but if low boost, should be usable. all VTEC usually lean a bit at that point, but it should be a spike, not a flat lean line.
