hahahahaha.....thats coming from an ex-B16A user... thats why kekekekthat phrase sometimes does hurt us b16a users.. but when talk a bout talk, i remembered one of ur pic u put.....then i transform my car ... then now u know why when u tell me 4.785, i silent silent
u can get them from LHS Jalan Ipoh or Exceptional in Glenmarie...Really? Where did you buy them?
Exceptional. LHS is nearer if you're in KL.Really? Where did you buy them?
mine also, the driver side window keep "derail"Well, of course I got new ones? All from halfcut newest is from 95 models, and how long ago is that?
Now my power windows move up smoothly like it's a new car. Not sure it's worth the 200+ pricetag of the rubber run-channels though.
i heard another more fancy word... torqueless wonder for the b16ahahahahaha.....thats coming from an ex-B16A user... thats why kekekek
Derail is fixable, if your rubber run channel still soft, just need to loosen the rail screw and realign. Body shop can do it for you if you not diy type.mine also, the driver side window keep "derail"
Well, when you want high hp from small cc, have to sacrifice torque due to rod ratio. The boosted torques are fun, but I dislike the throttle lag.i heard another more fancy word... torqueless wonder for the b16a
Time to change then, and decide if RM200+ each window is worth doing. LOLmine driver side, the rubber when out of shape dy, harden mayby.... there even 1 spot of the rubber crack and pop out, when my window almost gone top and closed, the poped out parts made it derail.. damn
Woah, lots of repair incoming there. Mine also 20years already, EH2, born same day as I did when it rolled of the factory (hence the reason I keep it).
Still running strong, but I replaced everything. The only part I think remained is the chassis. Total I poured probably nearly 80K or, but that's for almost 20 years of use, and include 2 engine replacement... considering TCO, still cheaper than other cars. LOL.
If not going to sell off, then restore it properly. If the price is too steep for you, then just go B16A for now, and the remainder, replace all the rubber bits. Total I spend on the windows alone and their rubber seals is near 2K+ last time. (all four doors, front and rear windshield) The underchassis bushings and stuff also add up. Frankly I think it's going to kill you if you put a powerful engine in and neglect fixing all your rubber bushings and bits.
A powerful car with leaky windows and dodgy handling is not a car you'd want to keep. < THIS
Do remember that doing this doesn't increase your resale value, so if you are planning to sell it down the road, then no point doing the above. For me, I spent because I plan to keep it until the car falls apart from rust.
---------- Post added at 03:07 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 03:00 AM ----------
All the problems u mentioned are small problems and inexpensive to fix. Fuel consumption for my b20b is quite saving if i use ron95. Keeping rev below 3k rpm is key for fuel saving. I turn on vtec, don't even think 'about fc, lol.
Breakdown of price (estimated from my experience fixing mine, these are from various years, so can't be sure that the price is still like that.)
1) Aircon bearing
I replaced mine, less than RM100.
2) Radiator rusting
Plastic third party dual layer radiator (looks like OEM, but isn't) RM300 or so, single layer is cheaper, but not by much if new. Second hand the fins mostly bent or possibly leaking.
3) Rear drum brake giving weird sound
Drum brake hydraulic actuators cost less than RM200. (when I had drum brakes.. ah, the good old days)
4) Exhaust bocor. Welding is 10-100++bucks (depending on how good is the welder, what method of welding)
5) Nozzle wiper no more working and some small minor problem
Nozzle wiper, just buy from chop shop. If regular, they usually give you FOC. I got mine FOC.
6) Sometimes Clutch footstep doesnt back to position...quite danger ><
That's sounds like clutch pump already leaked/spoilt. Replace. Halfcut place is cheaper. New is sub RM200, I think. I've only replaced mine once maybe 3-4 years ago.
I also started with b16a long time ago. It's torqueless, but it's fun to drive. For daily driving, FC not that good if you keep maintaining 3-4K for the usable torque. 1-3K rpm, the torque will lose out to wira 1.6. One thing about B16A, well maintained, it is seriously lasting even after abuse. I've put 200000+Kms on that engine without overhaul. Right now it's in my storeroom, still with 81mm bore. Lol.Bro shiroitenshi,thanks a lot for the guide and info
Hehe,erm so far all my rubbers are in good condition~
As for the bushings, I replaced for numbers of set for the front part , ended up send to TungChun they recommended use Genuine bushing....and I really feel the different between Genuine and Aftermarket, Aftermarket bit soft not reliable...it last me 4-6 months
However,Genuine last me more than 6months now and I still feel hard and stable when come to hard corner...
As for my exhaust,it has been welded for 2-3 times I dont think im going to weld it to cover up the hole again....really drives me crazy the sound >< irritating sometimes
What's Im going to upgrade is the engine,stabilizer bar(I feel floating when high speed around 170-180 on uneven road,any recommend? ),change the rear drum brake to disc brake....
My mechanic said that just buy a halfcut EG9 settle most of the problem Im facing now...but dont know roughly how much I have to spend for whole thing :rolleyes::rolleyes:
K20AR definitely, if your engine still in good condition, fix up everything for handling and keep saving up, so when the time comes to plonk in a powerful engine, you won't find your car handling lacking.Bro Madman,
Erm,honest speaking I am serious about the power
Have to admit I like speeding ONLY when no many road users on the road,always cant control my right foot well
Now I am thinking transplant B16A halfcut everything into my car than go for JPJ inspection,after that only I start my B20B project....
OR transplant K20AR 1 shot =(
Hard to decide
EG with white rim.. Silver is out. I had mine in silver with EK9 wheels. For me white rims only stand out when the car is black colour.tq for information... i plan to spend 20k for my eg... including new painting and new fabric for interior..with this money i can only go for b18cr...which colour better for eg9 with white rim?..im thinking of subaru blue
My current D16 engine 220k mileage ++ gosh underpower+ fuel comsumption is like huhu....0.3x sen/km crazyI also started with b16a long time ago. It's torqueless, but it's fun to drive. For daily driving, FC not that good if you keep maintaining 3-4K for the usable torque. 1-3K rpm, the torque will lose out to wira 1.6. One thing about B16A, well maintained, it is seriously lasting even after abuse. I've put 200000+Kms on that engine without overhaul. Right now it's in my storeroom, still with 81mm bore. Lol.
For handling,
EK9 shocks is the cheapest nice handling shocks, relatively comfy too. Need to mod the rear lower arms, but with aftermarket lower arms/Singapore civic LCA. Very nice fit for B16A, but when you start going with higher hp, it's too soft. I run Omni monotubes now. 10kg Fr/8kgs Rr.
Brakes wise, I've run EK9 knuckles and trailing arms, but after the swap, I have offset issues which limit my wheel choices. Go for Prelude BB brakes conversion for better braking.
Strut bar makes chassis stiffer, but for me doesn't improve handling that much. Rear anti roll/stabilizer bar is one of the best upgrades for handling IMO, it's relatively cheap to get a DC2 anti roll bar, and if can't find the u brackets to use thicker bar on your car, can use fake subframe brace. I use original ASR, but my friend uses the fake one. I asked him to rebore a bigger hole on the subframe brace at the LCA hole so he can reuse the original honda LCA bolts. I don't trust that fake taiwanese bolts. I'm using the ori 10.1 ASR bolts atm, but I'm going to do the same with mine when I replace the LCA next month. I trust honda bolts more. LOL. I'm using 24mm for performance, but the 22mm one is good enough for most people.
I got an old bordermax304 in the storeroom that's not leaking, and modded for EG sedan. Too noisy now for me since I got older, LOL. Also I'm running 2.5" exhaust now.
Bushings OEM genuine is one of the best. I also tried hardrace, and they're quite good as well.
Right now I'm only running pillowballs on my trailing and hard poly on my upper arms front and rear. Lower arms still rubber, contemplating spericals now. Goodbye comfort, LOL.
K20AR definitely, if your engine still in good condition, fix up everything for handling and keep saving up, so when the time comes to plonk in a powerful engine, you won't find your car handling lacking.
you can't use front, endlinks are different. To use front dc2 stabilizer, you need to use front dc2 subframe. probably can mod, but never tried.
enjin lantai is cheaper, but cannot start, so can't identify problems. Anyway, halfcut also never mind. My friend bought halfcut, but only took engine and harness. The rest the shop took back, like dashboard, brakes, etc.
Camber kit dunno, because I'm on skunk2 from day one. I've been using them for like 4-5 years, before hardrace became popular.
Hmm strange, maybe my friend is a regular. He got discount since he didn't take the dashboard and other stuff. Still more expensive than enjin lantai though, about 3K more, but he's satisfied because he wanted to hear the engine run.Ok noted.
Erm from what I think,I dont think most of the shop wanna to take back the leftover item...Even though they want to take they wont reduce from the total fee,
Let's wait for others forumer do they have any opinion on hardrace rear camber kit or not =(