Discussion On Your Daily Ride

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jebatdex

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jebatdex

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yea, i remember the Mark X shd be able to take Ron 95... but you can try 1 tank of 97 to see how big a difference it is and whether its worth it to pay more.



Lol yea...its quite normal for 2.0 or larger turbocharged engines especially the older ones to have FC of ard 7km/l.
ok will try.. sure
 

RENESIS VIII

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RENESIS VIII

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Toyota Camry Hybrid 2.5
Toyota Mark X
Volkswagen Passat GTi (psst the 2L, wet DSG one)
Mercedes C250
BMW 330e
Mazda CX-5 2.2D
Mazda 3
Honda CR-V 1.5T

The Passat, I wasn't ready to suffer the service centre and crap resale value. The Toyotas were too slow relative to the others at the top of the list. The Mercedes too expensive. The Mazdas not powerful enough, the Honda too uncle.



Which is why I mentioned UMW Toyota specifically, in their entire lineup other than the Toyota Camry Hybrid, the rest are utter rubbish. The CH-R is like poverty spec, no HID/LED, no adaptive cruise/auto brake, seriously... for the premium it commands over its segment peers. The Altis vs Mazda 3/Civic hahahaha, the Vios vs City.. etc.
And you went for 330e
 

vr2turbo

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vr2turbo

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yea, i remember the Mark X shd be able to take Ron 95... but you can try 1 tank of 97 to see how big a difference it is and whether its worth it to pay more.



Lol yea...its quite normal for 2.0 or larger turbocharged engines especially the older ones to have FC of ard 7km/l.
Not sure one tank makes any difference. Some say the ECU need to learn so best is 3 tanks, since first tank is not pure since have 95 balance in the tank, unless really empty.....hahhaha

Yah! old tech, old and worn engine some more.....drink like this..:pepsi:
 

marsha1l_v6

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Not sure one tank makes any difference. Some say the ECU need to learn so best is 3 tanks, since first tank is not pure since have 95 balance in the tank, unless really empty.....hahhaha

Yah! old tech, old and worn engine some more.....drink like this..:pepsi:
Give your vr4 new ECU...hahaha..

low boost @0.77b setup

my pv6lution 45L got me around ~500km...bhp gombak > pekan speedway + 2 run > bhp gombak ....left 1bar(fuel indicator..140kmh cruise @ ~4k rpm

daily drive klang > shahpadu highwah > nkve >damansara 20l only last me 4 trip/ 2days sahaja...haha

:driver:
 

vr2turbo

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vr2turbo

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Give your vr4 new ECU...hahaha..

low boost @0.77b setup

my pv6lution 45L got me around ~500km...bhp gombak > pekan speedway + 2 run > bhp gombak ....left 1bar(fuel indicator..140kmh cruise @ ~4k rpm

daily drive klang > shahpadu highwah > nkve >damansara 20l only last me 4 trip/ 2days sahaja...haha

:driver:
Mine only 0.6 leh.......hahhahhahaha
 

YellowFlash

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YellowFlash

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Not sure one tank makes any difference. Some say the ECU need to learn so best is 3 tanks, since first tank is not pure since have 95 balance in the tank, unless really empty.....hahhaha

Yah! old tech, old and worn engine some more.....drink like this..:pepsi:
Yea, the ecu may not adapt so quickly. Alternatively you can disconnect your battery for an hour to reset your ecu but then some of the settings in your car may run, your radio, steering control, ICE set up.
 

YellowFlash

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YellowFlash

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Yea, the ecu may not adapt so quickly. Alternatively you can disconnect your battery for an hour to reset your ecu but then some of the settings in your car may run, your radio, steering control, ICE set up.
Mine only 0.6 leh.......hahhahhahaha
Yet to get a boost control so far, so the only way to artificially control my boost is through the different SI-Drive modes which alter the throttle response affecting the boost level. The I-Mode which typically keeps my boost below 0.5 bar can feel quite sluggish to drive.
 

ixeo

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ixeo

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Yet to get a boost control so far, so the only way to artificially control my boost is through the different SI-Drive modes which alter the throttle response affecting the boost level. The I-Mode which typically keeps my boost below 0.5 bar can feel quite sluggish to drive.
Sports mode all the time man. Actually what does it alter? Boost and the power delivery to front/rear?
 

YellowFlash

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YellowFlash

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Sports mode all the time man. Actually what does it alter? Boost and the power delivery to front/rear?
There is 2 sports mode, one being just normal sports mode, the other is sports sharp which really brings the car alive, giving the raw brutal feel from the previous version STI where there is only 1 mode. Fuel consumption is about 10% lousier even when driving on the normal sports mode, gets much worse when switched to sports sharp.

The different modes vary only the throttle mapping which indirectly affects boost response/delivery.

As for the power delivery to front/rear, it is controlled by Subaru’s DCCD, sort of like the Evo’s SAYC or the Skyline’s Attesa system.
 

vr2turbo

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Never tried a manual with SI mode. The forester with CVT the S mode pushes the rev higher into the engine power range, therefore giving better throttle response and probably more fuel feed. Like cruising at 110kph I mode only 1.8k rpm, S mode is around 2.5k
 

YellowFlash

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Mark X compression is 12:1 but GDi engine, can drink 95 no problem. You can try 97 but IMHO not worth the price difference.



For Swift Sport is a bit misconception. The fuel Ron requirement is 95-98, so minimum can still drink 95 without issues. I have tried all ron but now I just use 95 for my son's Swift Sport. In UK, most people also just fill up 95 for it.
The modern ecu on most cars has the ability to adjust to lower Ron fuel by retarding the ignition timing however if the car’s manufacturer tuned it for higher Ron (per car handbook) then you are actually sacrificing some performance. The higher compression of these performance tuned engine can take advantage of advancing ignition timing to take extract more power but by using lower octane fuel, in context of RPG gaming (for illustration purpose) you’re basically like a level 20 character with a level 10 weapon. It’s always up to individual’s choice what they choose but I wouldn’t want to buy a high performance vehicle and then not enjoy it as much.
 

YellowFlash

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Never tried a manual with SI mode. The forester with CVT the S mode pushes the rev higher into the engine power range, therefore giving better throttle response and probably more fuel feed. Like cruising at 110kph I mode only 1.8k rpm, S mode is around 2.5k
Wow I didn’t know the ecu can alter the CVT’s ratio. For the manual, it basically just alters the throttle response, on the 6th gear at 110kph, rpm is about 2.5k.
 

6UE5t

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6UE5t

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The modern ecu on most cars has the ability to adjust to lower Ron fuel by retarding the ignition timing however if the car’s manufacturer tuned it for higher Ron (per car handbook) then you are actually sacrificing some performance. The higher compression of these performance tuned engine can take advantage of advancing ignition timing to take extract more power but by using lower octane fuel, in context of RPG gaming (for illustration purpose) you’re basically like a level 20 character with a level 10 weapon. It’s always up to individual’s choice what they choose but I wouldn’t want to buy a high performance vehicle and then not enjoy it as much.
Yes but the difference in performance for my NA cars are barely noticeable so doesn't justify the price difference between the 2 Ron. Maybe I am old uncle already so butt not that sensitive anymore to such marginal difference. If true high performance sports car and turbo cars surely should have much more difference
 

RENESIS VIII

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RENESIS VIII

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View attachment 572847


Yet to get a boost control so far, so the only way to artificially control my boost is through the different SI-Drive modes which alter the throttle response affecting the boost level. The I-Mode which typically keeps my boost below 0.5 bar can feel quite sluggish to drive.
Nice. You that's a GRF chassis WRX STI isn't it? Since you mentioned 2.5
 

vr2turbo

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Wow I didn’t know the ecu can alter the CVT’s ratio. For the manual, it basically just alters the throttle response, on the 6th gear at 110kph, rpm is about 2.5k.
ECU already controls the CVT, right? Step on the fuel rev goes up, then slowly pick up speed until final ratio. The paddle shifters also changes the CVT ratio....
 

ixeo

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There is 2 sports mode, one being just normal sports mode, the other is sports sharp which really brings the car alive, giving the raw brutal feel from the previous version STI where there is only 1 mode. Fuel consumption is about 10% lousier even when driving on the normal sports mode, gets much worse when switched to sports sharp.

The different modes vary only the throttle mapping which indirectly affects boost response/delivery.

As for the power delivery to front/rear, it is controlled by Subaru’s DCCD, sort of like the Evo’s SAYC or the Skyline’s Attesa system.
So if I understand you correctly the "sports mode" is just a boost controller + throttle controller. I assume your model its drive by wire already right.

ECU can control CVT ratio? Wow that's new. I never bothered about CVT cause I hate it with a passion.
 

gunnerzz

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gunnerzz

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So if I understand you correctly the "sports mode" is just a boost controller + throttle controller. I assume your model its drive by wire already right.

ECU can control CVT ratio? Wow that's new. I never bothered about CVT cause I hate it with a passion.
wah..u hated it so much till dont bother abt it. There are different programming too for example on the HRV it will shift to highest ratio as soon as it detect pedal lift of or cruising.It does this much quicker than the CVT on an Iriz. Newbie to CVT might mistaken it with normal autobox.

Not sure abt other make but on the Iriz the engine rev is limited in N.Newbie or haters like u will think its broken...heheheh
 

YellowFlash

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Yes but the difference in performance for my NA cars are barely noticeable so doesn't justify the price difference between the 2 Ron. Maybe I am old uncle already so butt not that sensitive anymore to such marginal difference. If true high performance sports car and turbo cars surely should have much more difference
Yea I guess unless you are going to the track, the difference may not be that noticeable. It may be more noticeable for higher hp cars. M
Nice. You that's a GRF chassis WRX STI isn't it? Since you mentioned 2.5
Yup, that's right, mine is the GRF, the 2.0 would be the GRB.

ECU already controls the CVT, right? Step on the fuel rev goes up, then slowly pick up speed until final ratio. The paddle shifters also changes the CVT ratio....
Just read up and found out that there is no fixed ratio for the CVT as it is just a pulley system and gear ratio can be electronically/artificially controlled. Learnt something new today, haha. I didn't really take note on CVT although one of my previous vehicle was on CVT.

Good article on CVT -> https://practicalmotoring.com.au/car-advice/continuously-variable-transmission-explained/

So if I understand you correctly the "sports mode" is just a boost controller + throttle controller. I assume your model its drive by wire already right.

ECU can control CVT ratio? Wow that's new. I never bothered about CVT cause I hate it with a passion.
Yea, its drive by wire. Only the much older versions were drive by cable and i heard the throttle response is definitely much better by cable.
I think the SI-Drive is more of a throttle controller rather than a boost controller but somehow by altering the throttle mapping, the boost is controlled.

Subaru SI-Drive -> https://www.greencarcongress.com/2006/04/subarus_new_sid.html
 

vr2turbo

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vr2turbo

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wah..u hated it so much till dont bother abt it. There are different programming too for example on the HRV it will shift to highest ratio as soon as it detect pedal lift of or cruising.It does this much quicker than the CVT on an Iriz. Newbie to CVT might mistaken it with normal autobox.

Not sure abt other make but on the Iriz the engine rev is limited in N.Newbie or haters like u will think its broken...heheheh
For town driving I actually like the CVT over my old 4 speed auto as 4 speed the ratio too far apart. If 6 speed auto then different story.....hhahhahah