D16A Turbo EG8

Discussion in 'Forced Induction & Engine Management' started by veil4G63, Feb 23, 2010.

  1. veil4G63

    veil4G63 Senior Member
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    Ok.. to all the brothers or sisters in ZTH, some questions from junior here

    Have anyone BOT a D16A engine before?

    I plan to go for it, but only wanted to get on low boost lets say around 0.6-0.8 bar maybe.

    I just bought a manual gearbox with LSD for D16A and i get an Exedy racing clutch already.

    so i was planning who has the experience for the SOHC VTEC Turbo. please let me know.

    1) What piston and conrod to upgrade to?
    2) what injector to use? 250 cc? 450cc?
    3) What turbo maybe be applicable for better response and low boost?
    4) how to save cost?
    5) where to get the turbo manifold?
    6) on low boost do i have to upgrade my bearings?
    7) piping size?
    8) etc, please share your experience.

    P.S. Just want a normal turbo ride, not for DRAG or Show off, i just love turbo and driving. :driver:
     

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  2. donCityZ

    donCityZ Senior Member
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    I read somewhere that d series conrod is too thin can break. but since u boosting low, not sure whether need to change or not.
     
  3. SYeNi69

    SYeNi69 Senior Member
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  4. speed2horizon

    speed2horizon Senior Member
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    As mentined above, VITARA pistons and Eagle Rods.U can stick back to your standard conrods if u are not targetting high horses. Ur crank is ready for 500HP monster. Conrods, within 200hp, Still can take it..

    Go for 390cc from 4G93T. but make sure u instal resistors into ur injectors module of ur engine wiring. Else, it'll either fry ur distributor or ECU.

    450cc for higher boost. Also need to install resistor pack.

    For low boost application, <0.7bar
    Garrett T25/MHI TD04L

    For moderate slightly higher boost application, >0.7bar and <1.2bar
    TD05 14B from VR4 RS/Garrett GT2560

    For high boost application, >1.2 bar to 2bar
    Garrett GT28/GT30

    There's no actual way of saving cost in BOT. The best cost saving solution is to do everything right at the first place. It can reduce ur injuries.

    DIY is a good option.

    Customize at AH HENG/JIAN HANG/IJAL

    Or get it from Drift House aka Garage R for the infinite turbo manifold. But the flange is T3 if I'm not mistaken. Maybe u may need to add on a customize adapter to match the turbo flange.

    Order oversea.

    D16 turbo manifold A

    D16 turbo manifold B

    D16 turbo manifold C

    Google it. There's plenty.

    Like mentioned above. It's not necessary. But why not do it at the same time since u are opening ur engine.

    2" > 2.5" for low boos application.


    Piggyback is necessary. Cause without piggyback, ur engine will stall when the MAP sensor detects anything above +ve pressure.

    E-manage/SAFC/Standalones...

    U may opt to go for the non VTEC head. That's what most overseas D16 monster does.

    Just to share something that may trigger ur interest. Hehe...

    YouTube- dirty d series compilation GT30R

    Hehe...
     
    #4 speed2horizon, Feb 24, 2010
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2010
  5. Syahz

    Syahz 5 Year | Silver

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    From Base on engine can boost max 1bar.250whp no dramas with EMS.
     
  6. Turbo676

    Turbo676 Senior Member
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    4) How to save cost

    if you cant afford eagle conrods, then try n find some conrods from the b20b i.e. from the CRV.these fit right onto the d16 crank and match the stock length of the d16 conrods.

    u'll need to notch your block as the thicker rod from the b20b will graze the block. same thing if u use eagle rods.

    also, your stock honda map sensor only reads to 0.7 bar / 11psi. the stock rods can take up to 0.7 bar. (it'll throw a CEL code if u run boost on a stock ecu - need a rechip at least)

    so unless u plan on running higher boost with a aftermarket map sensor & EMS, stick with the stock rods.

    4) How to save cost.

    instead of an EMS, try chipping your ecu i.e. uberdata, chrome etc

    4) How to save cost.

    go to : Honda | Acura Research, Reviews, Performance Parts, Owners - Honda-Tech.com
     
    #6 Turbo676, Feb 26, 2010
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2010
  7. veilsideboyz

    veilsideboyz Senior Member
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    Bro..If just boost 0.5 bar.. the intercooler piping and Throttle Body piping better keep all 2 " ??
    For an auto car .. :rolleyes:
     
  8. speed2horizon

    speed2horizon Senior Member
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    Are you trying to say that U're gonna use 2" [i[i all the way from IC to TB..? Can... To achieve the response... But 2" TB.... ? kinda small though... It's only 50mm..
    Are you sure..?

    If you are using anything more than that, U need to do an expansion to suit back ur TB> If u use an expanding Silicon hose also can...
     
  9. veilsideboyz

    veilsideboyz Senior Member
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    Ok... I just follow the diameter same size as TB..which is 2.5" :)
    and the Air filter to Turbo T28 I will use 2.5" also :wavey:
     
  10. speed2horizon

    speed2horizon Senior Member
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    Hoho... For the air intake to the turbo compressor inlet, the bigger the better... The shorter, the better. Normally follow ur MAF size... Or if MAP, follow the the filter size, or no filter... Keke...

    For ic to tb, u can use 2", then expand it to 2.5"... Reputated ic piping installer know what to do... I just left it to JH, they settle everything for me... No need mahfan. Let them do the mahfan...
     
  11. veilsideboyz

    veilsideboyz Senior Member
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    Bigger better but I dont think is shorter... I think about 1meter long the piping from air filter to Turbo....
    You mean ic to tb better keep 2.5" right ? JH at batu cave ?? sunday got open ??
     
  12. speed2horizon

    speed2horizon Senior Member
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    Shorter better... conform.. direct air intake... For ppl whom use MAP sensor they have the luxury to leave the turbine covered by just 1 mesh... Very good spools up... Longer piping increases the friction and head loss in the piping itself... But u don't have a choice... Cause ur ut turbine is at the back facing the fireewall...

    IC pipin, for response u can use 2" until TB Right before TB, expand.. High boost, application, then go for 2.5".
     
  13. veilsideboyz

    veilsideboyz Senior Member
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    Ok ~ Then I leave all the piping to 2".. ?
    If next time wanna boost high only go for 2.5 " ??
    Becoz next project , I will only boost 0.5bar... :(
    Shorter better... conform.. direct air intake
    But I have no choice... So the air filter piping to turbo put 2.5 " ok ar ? long 1 meter :biggrin:
     
  14. stupiddog

    stupiddog Senior Member
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    is not how much boost u wan to determine the built... is how many horsepower u wan...
    if u are boosting o.5 bar.. is not neccessary to change the piston or the conrod... a stock d16 conrod and piston can take up to 250 whp with a good tune if ur aiming for 200hp or over is advisable to change piston and conrod... if u wan cant afford better fuel management u can go for safc with 450cc injectors...with safc and 450cc injectors can give only bring as far as 200whp.... as for manifold there is a cheap route..not need worry about ur bearings... d16 with 200h[ over still using stock bearings..
    u can use a d16 stock manifold and modify it... if i not mistaken the manifold belong to the older d16 series on eg or before that just weld a flange that suites the turbo u wan to install[​IMG]
     
  15. speed2horizon

    speed2horizon Senior Member
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    450cc can gives u more than 200whp... Tested so far 230whp on safc with 80% duty cycle...
     
  16. stupiddog

    stupiddog Senior Member
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    can also.. but need to do something with the ignition timing .... install a safc will advance the stock ignition timing... somemore safc cant control the timing... or just retard the distributor
     
  17. fandy0211

    fandy0211 5 Year | Silver

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    Saw 1 Honda turbo kit cost RM6.8k,for me is worth..but excluded "air filter","injector","fuel pump"..tuning included but not stated which ECU used 4 it..sweat...not complete yet,still gonna buy here buy there...(-.-")
    http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/engine-and-performance/81740-honda-turbo-kits-11.html

    Ur quest:
    1) vitara 1.6 98' piston new-RM650
    http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1437597
    b20b conrod-RM500
    http://www.zerotohundred.com/newfor...-b16a-b18c-type-r-and-b20b-part-for-sell.html

    CONCLUSION:cheap and save..for budgeted owner like us..hehe:proud:

    2)depend what horsepower u aim,250cc can go 250hp+/-,450cc can go 300hp++
    250cc(used)=RM350:mad:
    http://www.mudah.my/4AGE+250cc+injectors+n+Vacum+Sensor-6362226.htm

    450cc=RM200:burnout:
    http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/engine-and-performance/130761-450cc-injectors.html

    CONCLUSION:450cc cheaper than 250cc??WTF!!!so go for 450cc,remember fuel pump,n fuel regulator~~~:biggrin:

    3) TD04(cheap,wide,low RPM responded)=200-280hp+/- RM390
    TD05-18g(mid RPM responded,preferable 4 VTEC manual,if auto,go 4 TD04 is better)=280-350hp+/- RM1400
    http://www.lelong.com.my/deadbolt-turbo-td05-18g-X246999-2007-01-Sale-I.htm

    CONCLUSION:s u mention 0.6-0.8bar,TD04 ok edy,but i recommend TD05 coz can produced more HP if needed,control ur right leg 4 economical requirement,or else u waste ur M/T gearbox and EXEDY clutch change 4 a waste..hehehe,no offend:biggrin:

    4) CONCLUSION:Turbo kit can save a lot,if the kit is complete with all things,u can DIY,but ECU better leave to expert to tune,or else u'll get blow blow blow~~~~~~~~~~~~engine!!!!:bawling::bawling::bawling:


    5) cast iron-RM499
    http://www.mudah.my/Infinite+D16+Cast+Iron+Turbo+Manifold+Clearance-5597924.htm

    Stainless steel-RM300
    http://www.lelong.com.my/turbo-manifold-honda-civic-1-6-62513389-2010-08-Sale-P.htm

    CONCLUSION:go 4 the cheaper 1,S. steel is lighter than iron...hehe...:love:

    6) Nope,depends on u,can change if got extra $$$$$ for longer use period

    7) for the piping size,u can accept what "speed2horizon" opinion....

    8) etc, please share your experience.
    CONCLUSION:Limit urself,like u mentioned "Just want a normal turbo ride, not for DRAG or Show off",so stick 2 ur plan,dont go deeper n deeper unless ur $$$$ is unlimited:mad::mad:..then other money can go for body,ICE,paint n many more...:biggrin:
    As J's Racing motto stated,The X'tream Honda Ride,go for a perfect where u got everything in ur car(^_^)~~i dont prefer a "naked" body in my honda without carpet,aircon,HARD DIE suspension,ICE and so on....all in is better~~(^_^)...juz share my own opinion....hehe
     
  18. dneilmotorsports

    dneilmotorsports 5 Year | Silver

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    At low boost u no need to fix a piggyback, just remapping ur ecu chip.Only upgrade to turbo chip, can save ur costing. hheee,by the way u must change ur map sensor. The most important thing u must fix a block guard, to keep ur engine not become overhate.. Good luck to u:hmmmm:

    ---------- Post added at 11:15 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:09 AM ----------

    Just fix the Apexi ITC 5button to retard the ignition timming. can cut $$$ ma..:mad:
     
  19. e-jump

    e-jump Senior Member
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    a noobie with stock D16-nonVtec (w/ emanageBlue)reporting in, reviving old thread

    I just went to GarageR to inquire some parts, and their manifold fits T3 turbo.
    Bro S2H pretty much help me with the turbo infos (http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/tech-forced-induction/16252-bot-bolt-on-turbo-236.html)

    Here are the estimate parts that i may need(do correct me if im wrong)
    - infinite d16 manifold rm500
    - turbine sr20 or rb25 (that fit the banana tapak) rm500
    - tial imit. wastegate rm300 (maybe i should go for original?)
    - bov rm150
    - FMIC kit rm1k
    - boost ctlr ?
    - injector/fuelrail combo (not sure price, still scouting)
    - fuel pump n fuel regulator ?
    yup, installer n tuner also important which i dont know who is willing to tune a rojak turbo.
    my aim is just low boost 0.3 while using my existing 2" piping n stock internals for now.
    Also, is D16 non-vtec conrod is too weak to support under 0.5 bar boost application?

    thanks in advance
     
  20. speed2horizon

    speed2horizon Senior Member
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    -The RB25 turbo is T3 flange. So, it's a plug n play.
    -The turbo comes with internal wastegate. So, tial is optional.
    -BOV, my friend and I have personally tried synapse imitation. As good as the the originals. And still holding strong at 35 psi.
    -FMIC, JASMA or China ACR will do. Forget about the big big intercooler if u are looking for response -and torque. The GSR front side mount is good. Or, the Mitsubishi V6 Twin turbo is good and they both cost <RM300 complete wit piping. Just mod the piping.
    -Boost controller is built in on the internal wastegate actuator. There's a screw to adjust. The aftermarket boost controller is to increase boost and not decrease.
    -The non Vtec is as good as the Vtec rods.
    -Injectors and fuel rail. Ur stock fuel rails are more than good for ur proposed application. regarding the injectors, u can opt for the Mitsubishi 4G93T injectors(390cc) which require a resistor pack u can purchase from Jalan Pasar. Just get the resistor for alternative current(long square white color) 10W 10ohm.

    Hope this helps....
     

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