Change what engine???

UranusFoo

Junior Member
Senior Member
Oct 7, 2008
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My current car is Proton Iswara 2004 model.
Engine is 4G13p (NA engine) with carb.
All types of NA modification is done to the engine until ALL accessories shop I visit like Kakimotor, Powerzone, Powertech, Enos, etc can find nothing else to add-in....:banghead:
Still not satisfied with its' power especially when going up hill....
Can anyone suggest to me what type of engine to change without modification to my engine molding?
My requirement is 1.8cc, turbo charged, DOHC & fuel injection.
Thanks:wavey:
 

SkYwAlKeR

Over 10,000 RPM!
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Mar 12, 2005
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mind to share what modifications u had done to ur engine??... any horsepower figure to show us??...

without modifications to ur engine mounting??... 4g67 with vr4 internals and turbo unit will suit ur criteria.... 4g67 is a 1.8L engine... rebore the block to fit vr4 internals and bolt on vr4 turbo kit... so, basically u'll have a vr4 engine with a 1.8L block....
 

4gManiaC

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Jan 12, 2009
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other engine u can consider are 4g91,4g92 mivec/non mivec or 4g93 n/a or GSR turbo..mirage 1.6 n/a or turbo can perfectly put into ur engine bay but sure now hardly to find one..if got one sure the cost is too high..what's ur budget anyway?
 

jinkl

4,000 RPM
Senior Member
May 22, 2004
4,624
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Kuala Lumpur
My current car is Proton Iswara 2004 model.
Engine is 4G13p (NA engine) with carb.
All types of NA modification is done to the engine until ALL accessories shop I visit like Kakimotor, Powerzone, Powertech, Enos, etc can find nothing else to add-in....:banghead:
Still not satisfied with its' power especially when going up hill....
Can anyone suggest to me what type of engine to change without modification to my engine molding?
My requirement is 1.8cc, turbo charged, DOHC & fuel injection.
Thanks:wavey:
simple
4g67 , end of story :)
 

UranusFoo

Junior Member
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Oct 7, 2008
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I don't know how much is my horsepower now because I didn't do any dyno.
All I can tell is my engine currently is fitted with Piper Performance Cam, Arospeed Adj. Cam Pully & Zerone Lightweight Aluminium Crank Pully.
For airflow improvement, I've fitted with K&N Air Filter (with piping which inside also fitted with Cyclone & Twin Power Device Airflow), NKS airflow compressor (with airflow meter), Zerone Oil Catchment Tank & 4 unit of Air Power.
My gear box is standard stock but fitted with 1.6cc flywheel & Exedy 4 plate clutch pad.
I'm using double plated water tank.
My exhaust systems is 4-1 extractor, with large center bullet & twin muffer (of which 1 muffer is blowing direct with electronic control setting).
My spark is Iridium sparkplug with modified plug cable (using gold-tip audio cable), 90Amp alternator with voltage stabilizer & voltage enhancer.
My braking system is currently using Mit. Pajero master Pump with potted front & back solid disc. Front caliper is standard & back caliper is for Honda Accord.
Road handling is enhanced with Ultra Racing bars (full spec except for room bar), Monreo Front absorder with APM spring & spring boosh damper, back absorber is KAYABA with APM spring & spring boosh damper. Back absorber is lighted high with 4" boosh.
Rim used is 16" with Michelin tyres (size 205 x 55 x 16W).
I also fitted turbo timer because my engine jotted each time when i turned off the ignition.
With all these in, I can do at anytime easily 140 km/h with 4,000 rpm in 13 second.
My problem is each time I do up slope, I lose power.Any slope above 45 degree, need 1st gear if rpm is below 2,000.
Tried PnP my head but engine water overheated after 2 years usage (bad workmanship). Current this is my 3rd head & 2nd manifold. My carb already change 3 times... :banghead: Even my head casket burned 3 times... Now I'm using standard head & manifold & head casket. Engine water overheated problems resolved with double layer radiator & racing spec. water temperature sensor (standard stock sensor can only go 80 degree C but my current sensor do 120 degree C).
Now my engine temp pulak goes 100 degree C. Engine pressure also high... At anytime there are oil spilled at the engine oil cap.... :confused:
Sifu, 4G67 is a original turbo engine ka??? My budget (all in including inspection) is around RM7k to RM8k.
 

DonJuanDeMarco

Known Member
Senior Member
May 10, 2007
134
1
1,518
what do you mean nothing else to do..??

-convert injection with engine management system.
-use the high pressure fuel pump walbro or bosch
-custom cool air intake
-bolt on superchager or turbo chager..

if your car already fully NA tune up ,blueprint & stroker kit,,,,plus with this mod your car will fly2 away..
 

jeffayn

500 RPM
Senior Member
Mar 27, 2004
621
62
3,028
Klang
I dun think you don all the way up there yet...

there is still quite a large room to play if you wan to go NA
 

GoldenHawk

500 RPM
Senior Member
Aug 6, 2004
777
0
3,016
No offense, but it seems like you have a lot of money & too little experience. Else you wouldn't have:
1. Gone for a run-of-the-mill PnP
2. Installed the "Cyclone & Twin Power Device Airflow, 4 unit of Air Power" and so on
3. Heightened the rear end of your car
..and on and on.

You should listen to the likes of "DonJuanDeMarco" and a few other forum Elders, they might have a lot of experience under their wings. Most importantly, research before committing, don't just listen & do.

Yes, the shortest way to more horsepower is going up the displacement ladder (1.3 -> 1.8), but if you think you've done 'everything' for your 4G13, think again. From the look of things, you're nowhere 'near' maxing the capacity of your 4G13 :smile:
 

4gManiaC

Junior Member
Senior Member
Jan 12, 2009
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if ur budget is around 7-8k,maybe u should go for GSR..but need modification on engine mounting..i dun know if 4g67 is still around and easier to find..
 

tofu_manic

1,000 RPM
Senior Member
Jan 11, 2007
1,342
91
5,148
listen to da sifus here dude

throw in oversized pistons, or just plug in a 4g15 block + stroke to 1600cc, proper bench-flowed pnp, 3-angled valves, webers? dcnf, or dcoes, capacitive discharge ignition, ignition coil, ceramic coat valve face, ceramic coat piston head, combustion chamber too, coat piston skirt to reduce friction, lighten, balance, blueprint, methanol-water-injection, custom crank scraper, erm...forgot what other things liao LoL

u want torque without much hassles, bolt in a 4g15 block with the stroker kit...then u have torque...uphill no problem, downhill also no problem :biggrin:

if want hp, u wont find it from accessory shops....erm...well....mebbe a branded drop-in filter and a cold air intake but that's it hehe

did u really go to powerzone? they have sooo many things that they could do for you, like bringing ur 0-100 down to 7-8 secs, NA..

damn, no offence, but with the money spent for ur cyclones, twin power intake, airflow compressor, 4 units of power intake, you could have gotten twin webers, or a 4g15 block + pistons, or something a bit more substantial methinks...

i would think that u r running crazy lean with those many air-leak devices, unless u didnt open them up much, which defeats the purpose of putting them there in the first place...

i would think that there is a whole lot of restriction in ur intake system, especially at higher revs, try taking it out and see the difference

Cheers!
 
Last edited:

SkYwAlKeR

Over 10,000 RPM!
Senior Member
Mar 12, 2005
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Visit site
muahahaha.... datz why i asked for his modifications spec list....

even kamtelo hasnt finish modding his 4g15 even he has thrown more than 10k in his engine alone....

Bump:

I don't know how much is my horsepower now because I didn't do any dyno.
All I can tell is my engine currently is fitted with Piper Performance Cam, Arospeed Adj. Cam Pully & Zerone Lightweight Aluminium Crank Pully.
For airflow improvement, I've fitted with K&N Air Filter (with piping which inside also fitted with Cyclone & Twin Power Device Airflow), NKS airflow compressor (with airflow meter), Zerone Oil Catchment Tank & 4 unit of Air Power.
My gear box is standard stock but fitted with 1.6cc flywheel & Exedy 4 plate clutch pad.
I'm using double plated water tank.
My exhaust systems is 4-1 extractor, with large center bullet & twin muffer (of which 1 muffer is blowing direct with electronic control setting).
My spark is Iridium sparkplug with modified plug cable (using gold-tip audio cable), 90Amp alternator with voltage stabilizer & voltage enhancer.
My braking system is currently using Mit. Pajero master Pump with potted front & back solid disc. Front caliper is standard & back caliper is for Honda Accord.
Road handling is enhanced with Ultra Racing bars (full spec except for room bar), Monreo Front absorder with APM spring & spring boosh damper, back absorber is KAYABA with APM spring & spring boosh damper. Back absorber is lighted high with 4" boosh.
Rim used is 16" with Michelin tyres (size 205 x 55 x 16W).
I also fitted turbo timer because my engine jotted each time when i turned off the ignition.
With all these in, I can do at anytime easily 140 km/h with 4,000 rpm in 13 second.
My problem is each time I do up slope, I lose power.Any slope above 45 degree, need 1st gear if rpm is below 2,000.
Tried PnP my head but engine water overheated after 2 years usage (bad workmanship). Current this is my 3rd head & 2nd manifold. My carb already change 3 times... :banghead: Even my head casket burned 3 times... Now I'm using standard head & manifold & head casket. Engine water overheated problems resolved with double layer radiator & racing spec. water temperature sensor (standard stock sensor can only go 80 degree C but my current sensor do 120 degree C).
Now my engine temp pulak goes 100 degree C. Engine pressure also high... At anytime there are oil spilled at the engine oil cap.... :confused:
Sifu, 4G67 is a original turbo engine ka??? My budget (all in including inspection) is around RM7k to RM8k.
stuff dat is not needed...
- Cyclone & Twin Power Device Airflow
- NKS airflow compressor
- 4 unit of Air Power


4-1 extractor, with large center bullet & twin muffer
this is why u loose low rpm torque...


Back absorber is lighted high with 4" boosh.

u wanna kill urself with this??...


I also fitted turbo timer because my engine jotted each time when i turned off the ignition.

thats is not the purpose of turbotimer... if ur engine jerks when u shutdown ur engine, check ur ignition timing... mayb it is overly advanced.... worn sparkplug and wrong AFR mixture could also be the cause...

and all ur engine damage is due to wrong tuning of ur car... overly advanced timing... lean AFR mixture... serious knocking... etc... all will contribute to damaging ur engine even further....

jz for ur info, my stock standard 4g13 with pipercams, adj campulleys and single weber 32/36 dgv also can do 140kmh easily lah....
 
Last edited:

steven7810

mivec user
Senior Member
Oct 12, 2004
1,314
26
3,148
kuala lumpur
hi hi pal, steven from kl cheras. as i know your problem lost power went up hill.
i will suggest to u to convert engine to 4G91 1.5 DOHC,4G92 MIVEC,4G92 NON MIVEC last 1 is 4G93 but all are depend on your pocket la. turbo engine sure power but the maintaince are abit high la.

I already convert to 4G92 MIVEC BLACK TOP 4 years back since 2005.
my ride are PROTON ISWARA 1.3 MANUAL SEDAN 1995.
So far so good go GENTING HIGHLAND with 3rd gear all the way only change to 2nd gear is the last corner near the temple.last time use 1.3 up hill no power.

my engine : stardard mivec 1.6 DOHC BLACK TOP DYNO power 135 hp.
radiator : double layer honda eg9 alunminum with extra fan in case too hot la...
brake : master pump 1.8 double layer 4 disc all VR4. good braking.
tire & rims : 15' inch 195/50/15 yokohama prada 4 pcs.
out look : as original condition...

If u intersted to convert engine i recommand u go to MUN LEE PUCHONG,check the princing,because i do my corvert at mun lee.

thank u all the best & kong hee fatt choy
 

tofu_manic

1,000 RPM
Senior Member
Jan 11, 2007
1,342
91
5,148
[/b]
thats is not the purpose of turbotimer... if ur engine jerks when u shutdown ur engine, check ur ignition timing... mayb it is overly advanced.... worn sparkplug and wrong AFR mixture could also be the cause...

and all ur engine damage is due to wrong tuning of ur car... overly advanced timing... lean AFR mixture... serious knocking... etc... all will contribute to damaging ur engine even further....

jz for ur info, my stock standard 4g13 with pipercams, adj campulleys and single weber 32/36 dgv also can do 140kmh easily lah....
dats wat i thot, could possibly be running super lean with all the air-leak devices

140kmh...in 13-14 seconds...is really good if it was achieved with the threadstarter's mods

weber....must try weber.....carbs with racing heritage, used on exotics as well, like ferraris and lamborghinis...the rawness....the induction noise....hehe poison alert poison alert
 

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