Basic camshaft installation guide

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D7zul

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D7zul

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And the rawwwrrr the Hellokitty cam gives me when I hit the powerband is priceless! :biggrin:

Hellokitty can rawwwrr? hehe.. :biggrin:

anyways, any cams that's bigger/higher than the stock one will gives u more power.. u just need a proper timing and the street is yours :thefinger:

Gudluck :burnout:

(haiya.. when can i afford a bigger cam la??? :banghead:)
 

drexchan

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drexchan

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I don't find the need to use dial gauge and degree wheel necessary in most of the case for street tuning. It's 'a proper procedure' but it's not 'the only procedure'.

After all, it's the result that matters. As long as the valves don't hit each other or the pistons, the engine idles well, variable timing mechanism (if available) works without problem, the rest of the tuning is all about getting the desired powerband (which can be done by putting the car on the dyno roller, or roughly on the road).

Who cares if the cam is 'dialed to the spec' if the spec is not what I want? What if I just want it sightly off because i feel better with that?

Unless paying RM350 extra make extra 10 mental HP. I don't care if it's exactly 2.000 cam degrees retarded, all I want to know is how good it performs. I don't care if two lines is exactly 4.000 crank degrees, all I want to know is what kind of difference it makes.

So, dial gauge and degree wheels? Yes, give me an unknown cam I will use those to tell you the spec, just to tell you the spec, nothing else!
 

turbo10

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turbo10

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i am just asking Izso whether the installation needs those complicated procedure..if it's straight forward it's great for me because i am interested to install one in my 4g13 and for sure i am not be able to dial in my cam by myself..i am not questioning your setup and sorry if i offended anyone with my Q..it's just an honest Q..anyways thanks for the answer..
 

drexchan

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drexchan

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i am just asking Izso whether the installation needs those complicated procedure..if it's straight forward it's great for me because i am interested to install one in my 4g13 and for sure i am not be able to dial in my cam by myself..i am not questioning your setup and sorry if i offended anyone with my Q..it's just an honest Q..anyways thanks for the answer..
Sorry mate. No.. no.. no.. I think you are the one getting upset by my offensive reply. :knuddel:

That was actually a general comment not referring to your question although it was that that sparked my interest in such reply.
 

Izso

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Izso

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Drex... this is why you should leave the writing and responding to me. wtf... :thefinger:
 

1JZtezza

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1JZtezza

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I don't find the need to use dial gauge and degree wheel necessary in most of the case for street tuning. It's 'a proper procedure' but it's not 'the only procedure'.

Mild street cams no problem

After all, it's the result that matters. As long as the valves don't hit each other or the pistons, the engine idles well, variable timing mechanism (if available) works without problem, the rest of the tuning is all about getting the desired powerband (which can be done by putting the car on the dyno roller, or roughly on the road).

Who cares if the cam is 'dialed to the spec' if the spec is not what I want? What if I just want it sightly off because i feel better with that?

As usual we like to 'rojak' stage 1;stage 2 and stage 3 mods.(supporting mods for the cam)And newbies dont have the knowledge and/or experience and hence the cam card spec is usually the first reference point.


Unless paying RM350 extra make extra 10 mental HP. I don't care if it's exactly 2.000 cam degrees retarded, all I want to know is how good it performs. I don't care if two lines is exactly 4.000 crank degrees, all I want to know is what kind of difference it makes.

High lift cams with high comp pistons and big valves...different ball game here( interference engine some more)

So, dial gauge and degree wheels? Yes, give me an unknown cam I will use those to tell you the spec, just to tell you the spec, nothing else!
Just my 2 cents :beer:
 

Veloc

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Veloc

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Hellokitty can rawwwrr? hehe.. :biggrin:

anyways, any cams that's bigger/higher than the stock one will gives u more power.. u just need a proper timing and the street is yours :thefinger:

Gudluck :burnout:

(haiya.. when can i afford a bigger cam la??? :banghead:)
Haha... No... It will meow... But it cucuk it, it will scratch...
 

punk

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punk

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Tappet clearance adjustment: all you need are a good 12mm close-ring spanner, a flat-head screw driver, good ears and good eyes. Feeler gauge? I keep that in the closet and never use it for long enough that it some how rusted.



aiyo, taiko, no proper procedure for noob/beginner ah??:biggrin:
did some tappet adjustment at shop really not satisfying..:banghead:
 

drexchan

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drexchan

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aiyo, taiko, no proper procedure for noob/beginner ah??:biggrin:
did some tappet adjustment at shop really not satisfying..:banghead:
If have time, I will get izso to post something about that. But the info is already widely available in teh web so do some personal research first lah.. okay?
Not satisfied with a shop's work? I hope that it's not my shop LOL!!!
 

hamtaro00

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hi, any1 have idea on JASMA camshaft? i believe its the cheapest around, but somehow unable to get any feedback at the moment.

by the way,izso and other members who had installed Hello Kitty cam,does it sounds rough and for normal cruising drive, FC big diff?

rgds
 

lkeong88

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lkeong88

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I think you only need to change spring when you mess around with lift not highcam alone.

Anyway I think you can use rubber gloves especially those medical grade - there is no contamination of the gloves, and you protect yourself from cancer.

Another thing is, from what I know, minor knocks are inaudible, but you can see them when you hook up a standalone ECU that enables you to read the knock sensor (minor knocks may shorten the engine life but so does most modding)
 

Izso

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aiyo, taiko, no proper procedure for noob/beginner ah??:biggrin:
did some tappet adjustment at shop really not satisfying..:banghead:
Drex and I did some tappet adjusting on my car but it still needs some fine tuning so when I find the time, I'll try it again and post it up for show later. It's not hard to do, just to get the best feel it's trial an error imho.


hi, any1 have idea on JASMA camshaft? i believe its the cheapest around, but somehow unable to get any feedback at the moment.

by the way,izso and other members who had installed Hello Kitty cam,does it sounds rough and for normal cruising drive, FC big diff?

rgds
Erm.. no difference in FC... if I control my right foot :biggrin: It's quite addictive (the roar of Hello Kitty.. haha) so I tend to rev it quite a lot. Recently did 11km/L which is out of my usual 15km/L. :biggrin:

I've got no solid information on Jasma cams so I won't comment. But from what I've heard it's just a rebranded Piper regrinded cam. If that's true, then it's value for money if you're in the market for a regrinded cam.


I think you only need to change spring when you mess around with lift not highcam alone.

Anyway I think you can use rubber gloves especially those medical grade - there is no contamination of the gloves, and you protect yourself from cancer.

Another thing is, from what I know, minor knocks are inaudible, but you can see them when you hook up a standalone ECU that enables you to read the knock sensor (minor knocks may shorten the engine life but so does most modding)
True that on the gloves. But rubber gloves tear easily and since there about a thousand things that can cut you, I'd rather just go bare handed.

Good info on the knocking. In my case my VDO won't let it knock that badly / long anyway since it's adaptive.
 

punk

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punk

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If have time, I will get izso to post something about that. But the info is already widely available in teh web so do some personal research first lah.. okay?
Not satisfied with a shop's work? I hope that it's not my shop LOL!!!
okok..surely not ur shop..:biggrin:

so to make thing more clear ..i want to ask some question:
in the pic i upload the manual says no.1,no,2,no.3,no.4 should be piston number.


the second pic the marking to the Top Dead Center(TDC) should be piston no.1..
if i turn more 90degree clockwise should be piston no.2 ? another 90degree piston no.3 ? lastly 90degree more is piston no.4?
 
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1JZtezza

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okok..surely not ur shop..:biggrin:

so to make thing more clear ..i want to ask some question:
in the pic i upload the manual says no.1,no,2,no.3,no.4 should be piston number.

the second pic the marking to the Top Dead Center(TDC) should be piston no.1..
if i turn more 90degree clockwise should be piston no.2 ? another 90degree piston no.3 ? lastly 90degree more is piston no.4?
Hmm V engine??? V four???

DREX when you are not doing this :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: answer him!

:rofl:
 

1JZtezza

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1JZtezza

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Pistons 2 and 4 are 180 degree opposite on crank to piston 1 and 3

You adjust tappets when its 'free' NOT TDC
 

punk

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punk

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Pistons 2 and 4 are 180 degree opposite on crank to piston 1 and 3

You adjust tappets when its 'free' NOT TDC
so u mean piston no.1 & no.3 is on 3o'clock and piston no.2 and no.4 is on 9 o'clock ?
u mean it's free is when the valve doesn't go up is it??newbie here:biggrin:
 

gaza

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gaza

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hi, any1 have idea on JASMA camshaft? i believe its the cheapest around, but somehow unable to get any feedback at the moment.

by the way,izso and other members who had installed Hello Kitty cam,does it sounds rough and for normal cruising drive, FC big diff?

rgds
i think jasma camshaft increase horsepower too.but i have no idea is it tahan lasak or will kaboom your engine after couple year running with it.this blog give dyno chart after installing jasma camshaft.


Jasma Performance Camshaft 4G13 & 4G15
thx syazwan
 

drexchan

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drexchan

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:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:

When the cam gear is aligned to the marking, it marks the TDC of Piston #1 & #4, turn the cam gear by 180 degrees you will get TDC for pistons #2 & #3.

You only adjust the tappet when the rocker arm rollers are NOT being pushed by the cam lobes. This happens when the valves are close. So you only adjust the tappet for those valves that are completely closed.

If all valves are close at TDC - end of compression stroke.
If only intake valves are close at BDC - end of power stroke.
If only exhaust valves are close at BDC - end of intake stroke.
If no valves are close at TDC - end of exhaust stroke.

Step 1) Adjusting the first 6 valves
When you align the cam gear to the marking, you will get:
cyl. #1: end of compression stroke - all valves close (adjust all)
cyl. #2: end of power stroke - intake valve close (adjust intake only)
cyl. #3: end of intake stroke - exhaust valve close (adjust exhaust only)
cyl. #4: end of exhaust stroke - all valves open (do not adjust)

Step 2) Adjusting the next 6 valves
Then you turn the cam 360 degrees (after 2 strokes), you will get.
cyl. #1: end of exhaust stroke - all valves open (do not adjust)
cyl. #2: end of intake stroke - exhaust valve close (adjust exhaust only)
cyl. #3: end of power stroke - intake valve close (adjust intake only)
cyl. #4: end of compression stroke - all valves close (adjust all)

When aligned to the cam marking (without checking the crank marking), cylinder #1 can be either in the end of compression (all valve close) or end of exhaust (all valve open), so you may start with either steps first.

You'll realize that tappet adjustment is always done with piston #1 in the TDC, so that you can do all 6 closing valves at the same time.
 
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