1. Hello! We've made major changes to both the Forums and Marketplace section recently. Please join the discussion and tell us your feedback! Read Here for urgent matters, send an email to forums@zerotohundred.com | Update: User Like count is back | Current Progress: Adding improvments to The Marketplace
    Dismiss Notice

All about Vantex/Mantex/HSP/HY/HL/Clone RC Cars...

Discussion in 'Radio Control Machines' started by bullet_nos, Mar 23, 2010.

  1. bullet_nos

    bullet_nos Senior Member
    Senior Member

    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2004
    Messages:
    1,198
    Likes Received:
    47
    Hey guys!

    Sorry, I am very new to the 'professional' RC field...long ago i used to play with modified QD's...haha

    But now I tot of entering the RC Drift scene...not for competition, but just syok sendiri la...

    So i've been doin some research...and found that there are clone/copies of branded RC cars such as Tamiya, HPI, Xray, etc...

    Sorry if i offend the Hardcore fans of original brands, but i guess i dun hv the budget to afford the Real-Deal.

    Hence, my choice range wud be like the thread title...n i noticed the Vantex models r quite popular...

    But Vantex itself has several types...from what i gather, the popular model is the Alloy chassis belt-driven one.

    Question is, can this particular model do good drifts out of the box? i dun expect like high speed and all...but can it do the job? what about the other clone brands' mentioned?

    speed wise, how fast roughly can it go? box says 60kmh...that's pretty fast...but is it true?

    btw, i find that most prefer belt-driven than shaft-driven. what's the reason?

    i dun wanna spend too much dough on it as i just tot of hvin simple fun trying to drift RC...QD's cant do it for sure.

    Teng Kiu Sifu's in advance!

    Cheers
     
  2. Jin_Jat

    Jin_Jat 5 Year | Silver

    Joined:
    May 2, 2009
    Messages:
    167
    Likes Received:
    14
    Hi dude! im an ex-rc drifter...now i stopped playing rc becoz i think instead of playing the rc why not make the real scale one...hehehe ^_^...anyway i can give u some opinions on how to go for the first rc drift car model...

    if ure a first timer, getting a shaft driven rc is better because this type of rc can actually train ur rc drifting techniques but if ure quite experience with drifting simulations or games..such as battlegear 1,2,3 & 4, D1 Granprix on PS2...then u can trust urself whether to get a belt of shaft driven...

    a shaft driven rc car tends to spin out if ure not good with ur hands because these type is not a spool ( like a lock welded axle in real life) differential car unless u know how to do the mods to it...but if ure buying a yokomo brand then its already easy to drift...but with the shaft driven, u can easily clip a corner (clip means from entering a corner u attacked near it and have ur front tires near to the inner corner until exit) and u will need experience to do a brushing clip ( means clipping the rear of ur rc to the opposite of ur inner corner)...

    For a belt driven, its really amazing because of the traction of the rc and the response of all the 4 wheels, depending on how u set them...the belt driven rc car is known as the king of sideways... for as long as u keep in the throttle, the rc will 'long drift' as long as u can maintain the pace and handling...

    For me i prefer the belt driven because of the smoothness of the drift it makes but not to say the shaft ones cant...As for ur question, Vantex/Mantex/HSP/HY/HL/Clone RC which is better for u right? If ure low in budget better get a vantex@HY and not to say others are not compatible drifters but they will make u take more time to master techniques of rc drift...

    I used to have a HL touring car and changed all four tires with a poly pipe to drift...and it all only took me a glance of below than 15 minutes to master drifts with this rc...it still does the job!! but nowadays there are rc drift tires everywhere in an rc shop so wouldnt be a problem for u...

    U can also go to some rc track and ask the ppl there too for opinion...QDs can drift...just need motherload of modification...but not to be tested by first timers cause it will cost u so much money instead of buying the RTD ( ready to drift )ones...

    Get a minimal budget of RM400++ and u should get what u need to rc drift...but be warned! better get ur pockets ready to replace any faulty electronics or parts because the CHINA made RCs are not of the same quality as the Japan Made ones...Just a friend's concern to u thats all...

    BTW if u have extra budget for lets say RM600++, u should check out the SPRINT 416, its the copy of the TAMIYA TRF416...the parts are exactly to TAMIYAs so u can just go to TAMIYA UNDERGROUND in 1 Utama for parts and upgrades....any balance of cash u had after buying the rc, u should get ur car pimped or powered up!

    hope that i helped u...any questions regarding RC DRIFTING u can ask me or other taiko here! CHeerS!

    ---------- Post added at 04:33 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:24 AM ----------

    Its kind of true!! but after u plug in the drift tires, the speed will be gradually reduced due to the slippery surface of the tires...and also the surface of the track u play in...but upgrades are always next step to you...just ready up some cash and ull be fast and furious!
     
  3. bullet_nos

    bullet_nos Senior Member
    Senior Member

    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2004
    Messages:
    1,198
    Likes Received:
    47
    :adore::adore::adore: thank u for your informative reply taiko!

    ok, so my action plan: get a Vantex Model...btw, Sprint 416 is it the same as the HY clone TRF416 carbon fiber chassis model? price around RM500-600 or somthing rite?

    btw, Vantex model, u mentioned since from china, the electronics sumtimes faulty...usually it's the ESC? Servo? Controller? wat other important electronics r there in this type of RC?:confused:

    hm, i Think i noe abit of the basics of drifting...like how to initiate a drift...bt of cos, not really pro la...so mebe i mite go for a belt driven one terus instead of having to change again next time. i think some now selling ard rm300 or so...

    btw, i oredi hv a QD...747 old model...but modified oso la...but i dun tink can drift le cos i noticed most rc drifters are 4wd...QD = rwd (altho perfect for real scale):hmmmm:...besides, the steering takda servo...1 speed...if can drift mmg skill...hehehe

    btw, got 1 forummer selling his ORI tamiya ta05 r prokit RM1k mebe nego...so poisoning! haha
    but i baru amateur, btr dun spend so much on such a good rc car n ltr rosakkan it...haha

    teng kiu sifu!:adore::biggrin:

    lain lain sifu, pls put in feedback oso ya...:wavey:
     
    #3 bullet_nos, Mar 25, 2010
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2010
  4. lixor

    lixor 15 Year | Platinum

    Joined:
    Nov 14, 2005
    Messages:
    42
    Likes Received:
    0
    rule of tumb, start slowly, then hop up according your skill, then up grade base on your budget. Its an expensive hobby but if you take good care of your vehicle, then it will last at least 10 years.(Except electronics)
     
  5. bullet_nos

    bullet_nos Senior Member
    Senior Member

    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2004
    Messages:
    1,198
    Likes Received:
    47
    yea, so thats y mebe i'll go for knock-offs first...

    btw, vantex oso got Xray belt models...ok ka? or 416 clone btr?
     
  6. Jin_Jat

    Jin_Jat 5 Year | Silver

    Joined:
    May 2, 2009
    Messages:
    167
    Likes Received:
    14
    ok in this type of rc, these are about the main electronics = esc, receiver, motor, transmitter(remote), servo, and battery pack...

    the problem which usually occur is from the Esc and Servo...but other electronics parts can sometimes be faulty too...and also after u bought a RTD, remember to save up more money because there will always something lose or broken (dog bone, diff, damper, etc2)
     
  7. Jin_Jat

    Jin_Jat 5 Year | Silver

    Joined:
    May 2, 2009
    Messages:
    167
    Likes Received:
    14
    U should!! unless ure a rich guy with money to burn! at least these copies really imitate the real-deal rc chassis at a lower cost but u should inspect the chassis before playing such as tighten a little all the screws on the chassis such as the gear box (also same with diff housing), body post, shock tower etc2...because my friends and I experienced it before where one of my friends HY lost its rear right arm and shock tower screws while drifting! and at that time i was night time so couldnt find them until the next morning...some issues~

    For me i would go for the 416 rather than xray because of parts...



    ---------- Post added at 02:52 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 02:48 PM ----------

    this QD i mentioned is the 4WD QD...

    ---------- Post added at 03:08 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 02:52 PM ----------

    yea around RM500++ ~ 600++ or so so, quite same the chassis but make sure before buying, inspect any missing screws, jammed diffs, etc2...

    any of china made brand rc cars that u mention are already worth it! u said ure getting a vantex, well done nice choice, and getting a belt driven is also a good choice into professionalism, at this stage ull be able to feel the smooth drift that i told u earlier in the post...but make sure u take care of the chassis properly, as it is a belting, small rocks tends to get sucked into the belt vee and will ruin ur diff! so better play at a safe surface...its ok to play on normal road but becareful...

    Is the TA05 R he sells is a RTR(ready to run) or just the kit? if he's selling only the kit, u better get a new kit because new TA05 R is only about RM1500+ or less i dunno because long time didnt keep track of these rc chassis price...if RTR, make sure u check the electronics parts and option parts he had upgraded...check how old are all the items and wat will u get other than the TA05...maybe tools, spare parts, etc2...body wise, its not really a big deal, rc body u can buy anytime and satisfy urself by buying ur favourite car make and paint...

    The TA05 R is one of my favourite chassis...i really loved it because of the equal distribution of power from the motor to the front and rear diffs...quite wonderfully balanced with its center position motor...

    but budget is everything, my advise to u is, get wat is within ur budget first...after upgrading step by step, u can always buy a new chassis (probably a pro kit) and transfer ur electronics to it...the older chassis maybe u can keep to make a spare if anything happens or to keep for ur children to play...ahhaha
     
    #7 Jin_Jat, Mar 25, 2010
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2010
  8. bullet_nos

    bullet_nos Senior Member
    Senior Member

    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2004
    Messages:
    1,198
    Likes Received:
    47
    er, unfortunately, im just yr average joe that gian wanna drift rc bt limited budget...haha

    btw, the ad:

    http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/automotive-wear-and-ware/326912-tamiya-ta-05-r-pro-kit.html

    dunno whether includes transmitter o not...

    btw, got 1 guy selling in lelong the vantex 416 clone with carbon fiber chassis for rm490...btw, the transmitter uses wat type of battery?

    is it advisable to get 2nd hand vantex?

    thx for the detailed advice man...if i do get 1, must jaga...

    btw, my 'QD' is er...New Qi Da...:rolleyes: but mod kau kau la...hehehe

    but i oso hv a very old QD from Tamiya...but its 2wd oso...Buggy.

    so, u dun own any more rc cars? or just collecting dust somewhere?

    cheers
     
  9. Jin_Jat

    Jin_Jat 5 Year | Silver

    Joined:
    May 2, 2009
    Messages:
    167
    Likes Received:
    14
    i dun own anymore rc, i sold them all already after stopping...2nd hand? dun..unless the 2nd hand is worth buying because of the upgrades...but better buy new...
     
  10. bullet_nos

    bullet_nos Senior Member
    Senior Member

    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2004
    Messages:
    1,198
    Likes Received:
    47
    yea, wear n tear very dangerous...thx for yr advice n tips man! ltr maybe i drop by tamiya 1 utama poison myself abit...hehehe

    cheers man! owe u teh tarik...haha
     
  11. Jin_Jat

    Jin_Jat 5 Year | Silver

    Joined:
    May 2, 2009
    Messages:
    167
    Likes Received:
    14
    No problem man, just being a friend thats all, anyway i think u should head out to local rc tracks to find out more info about rc drifting...maybe u could gain knowledge over there...but dun be poisoned by some rc dudes at the tracks as they will poison ur mind to get the expensive stuffs hahahaha...after all, it all comes back to you whether u have the budget or not...

    another piece of advise is that u should consider doing it step by step, dun simply see ppl use, u also want to use...this will make u spend more money without hesitating...especially with the electronics parts...like i said before...save some money to replace first before thinking of upgrading...

    P/s if want to upgrade better make sure the best of quality products...
     
  12. bullet_nos

    bullet_nos Senior Member
    Senior Member

    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2004
    Messages:
    1,198
    Likes Received:
    47
    earlier i dropped by 1U to check out the Tamiya shop...wah, the TT01-D E-type RTR looks quite tempting...is it a good body to drift? cos i see the chassis is made of plastic...but at lis nama Tamiya la...hehehe
     
  13. Jin_Jat

    Jin_Jat 5 Year | Silver

    Joined:
    May 2, 2009
    Messages:
    167
    Likes Received:
    14
    hahaha very tempting indeed and yea its made of plastic...thats y first timers always get their hands on the China made first bcause its not that different than the original 1, only minor faulty parts...even if u bought the original, it doesnt mean the electronics parts will not be faulty, if not careful...but it is at better quality of course....

    either way...it is up to you though...its not wrong to get the original 1 because they are made according to higher quality standards as they are known around the world for it...

    but make sure u really choose the chassis properly, otherwise will let u down later...such as chassis made of silly materials, unavailability of opt parts, etc2...the tt01 is known as the 'have to upgrade a lot' chassis since the parts in it are mostly plastics...
     
  14. bullet_nos

    bullet_nos Senior Member
    Senior Member

    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2004
    Messages:
    1,198
    Likes Received:
    47
    aiks...ok, den since im still a noob, btr dun get the branded stuff just yet...

    btw, i noticed that the copy of 416 got got some parts made of plastic while the ori 416 made of alloy, such as the bulkhead (i tink that's wat it's called..:hmmmm:)...are these parts susceptible to damage? also on the adjustable camber and arm area...the adjustable nut/screw is made of alloy...but the 'holder' on both ends is plastic...will it last?
     
  15. Jin_Jat

    Jin_Jat 5 Year | Silver

    Joined:
    May 2, 2009
    Messages:
    167
    Likes Received:
    14
    these plastics on the copy brand will last u for months if u are careful enough...and the option parts are available in 1U as they resembles quite the same...in the mean time before these parts go boom, u will already have spare money to get urself better parts...

    thats y the ori 416 kit cost u a fortune...they are better at quality and the parts given are mostly hop-ups already...the china brand is not that bad though...its just that u just have to hop-up parts urself instead of getting it out of the box...atleast u get to run it out of the box rather than to have to assemble and buy electronics parts after buying the kit...

    and dont worry to much about the china brand stuff...just be kind to it and try to play as carefully as possible as we all know the quality of the make...dun do dare devil stunts! hahahha, even the ori will have a problem with that...hahahaha

    u can slowly upgrade the UJ, motor mounting, shocks, arms, etc2 later when u have concluded another budget regarding the chassis...as for electronics parts...just slowly plan ur way...if ure getting the feeling of being an enthusiast...try getting hold of a brushless w/ esc, then upgrade ur receiver and remote (i suggest u target a 2ghz remote which comes with a servo)...then battery pack (a li-po will blow ur mind away)...

    P/s...u should get urself the tools to tinker with ur chassis and a brush to clean ur chassis after playing...CheeRS!
     
  16. bullet_nos

    bullet_nos Senior Member
    Senior Member

    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2004
    Messages:
    1,198
    Likes Received:
    47
    hehe! of cos not man...if buy one of these, wun dare to try any crazy stunts...for that, i have my old Tamiya QD buggy...hahahatools, i tink i got some oredi...maybe get more along the way if needed...my progression for these mini cars started from tamiya mini 4wd...then move on to tamiya QD...then go to the uber-cheap Qida 747...then moded...then now wan to move to RC Drift.btw, i noticed there is also the hpi e10 model...are they any good? the price for a used one ard rm500+ only...looks quite new (3 months old?)hop-up wise...and drifting/performance...ok ka?just wanna make sure i make the rite choice...hehethx!
     
  17. Jin_Jat

    Jin_Jat 5 Year | Silver

    Joined:
    May 2, 2009
    Messages:
    167
    Likes Received:
    14
    The HPI e10 model if not mistaken is a front mounted motor chassis shaft driven, this actually have larger weight in front instead of having it on the rear or balanced mid motors. ive only tested this chassis once and its ok to drift, as for the hop-ups for this chassis, it is also expensive but compared to yokomo, this one is still considerable...HPI e10 is an ok buy for first timers too. but i think u should consider looking for a new one instead unless the 3 months old have done some hop-ups and opt electronics...U can seek a HPI e10 in rc shops, the price for new one is quite cheap if ur budget isnt limited to some range below the price...but then again, if u are considering to buy the 3 months old chassis u should really check any flaws, scratches, cracks, faulty parts and lose screws...

    There are some O-tai people in the R/C drift community already mod some HPI chassis to counter-steer (CS) drift like in the real world...this cs i think can be done on a Cyclone@Cyclone S HPI brand...maybe u should consider buying a cyclone if ure interested in CS mod...by reducing the rear diff ratio and spool it up, then get a one-way diff for the front diff to apply similarly as handbrake in the real world.

    This is the webbie for some info Rcdriftrevolution.com or u can just watch some vids in youtube to gain more knowledge of CS...type 'counter steer drifting'....or any similar quote...

    P/S This CS mod will make u even mad about R/C drifting...

    CheeRS!!:biggrin:
     
  18. bullet_nos

    bullet_nos Senior Member
    Senior Member

    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2004
    Messages:
    1,198
    Likes Received:
    47
    wah! CS is serious man!!! wud be super chun la...bt i beginner only, dunno boleh capai o not...btw, how much wud a cyclone costs? does it come in a kit only form or got RTR versions? 4wd also? or like real life RWD? wahaha

    yea, i saw the HPI E10 the other day in Toy City, going for about RM 699...maybe outside can get cheaper...yea, so i guess those 2nd hands aint a bargain.

    i tink start with China wan first lo...bt also not that cheap...416 need around 400++...
     
  19. Jin_Jat

    Jin_Jat 5 Year | Silver

    Joined:
    May 2, 2009
    Messages:
    167
    Likes Received:
    14
    yea...if ure getting a china brand its ok too...just make sure u choose the prefect 1 for u...also get the 1 that copies original with many reasonable hop-ups....then when u are fed-up with it, u can just proceed to mod into CS...u will not feel as painful as using an ori 1 right...just search any other chassis that can easy be modded to CS and later in the future u might have 1 for urself... CheeRS
     
  20. bullet_nos

    bullet_nos Senior Member
    Senior Member

    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2004
    Messages:
    1,198
    Likes Received:
    47
    i tink all points to the 416 clone for now...i tink i might start with that.

    btw, can 416 be modded to do CS?

    thx man...u've been a great help to me! cheers
     

Share This Page