Airtrek Turbo (CU2W) Engine (4G63T), tranny and drivetrain swap to Lancer 2008

Mitevo7

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Problem with BOT, is the internal may not last.....:driver:
Agreed ... i rather do low boost style like the older days Volvo and Audi, i am more worried of the CVT box. Boost pressure has to come in very gentle and linear, a high end electrical boost controller by RPM is a must. Last time i went to junkyard, a used and seems good condition Volvo S40 2.0T light pressure turbocharger cost me about MYR350. Below is my checklist for turbocharging the Lancer if i really needed that power without swapping shit:

1.) S40 I 2.0 Low pressure turbocharger = MYR 350
2.) Custom exhaust manifold = MYR 600
3.) Used Intercooler = MYR 400 for decent size
4.) Custom intercooler piping = MYR 1,200 depending on length, material and workmanship, my 1jZ custom intercooler and exhaust piping complete is about MYR 2600
5.) Used EBC (M7 model) = MYR 700
6.) Used con shape airfilter = MYR 150
7.) Recirculated BOV = FREE, used my existing one but must reroute the intake
8.) Coolant supply lines for turbo = Unknown but i budget in MYR 300
9.) Samco hoses = budget in MYR 600 for all necessary fitting
10.) Dastek Unichip Q+ = MYR 1,500 including tune
10.1) OPTIONAL = Remap using stock ECU using Openport 2.0 = MYR 1,000
11.) Last but not least, INSTALLATION = MYR 1,000 for good friend's price

I looks like i will need sub 10K to get my car turbo'ed, at least if i am keen, i can pick those parts one by one without having to give one shot like how i did for my 1JZ. Fucking expensive.

Thanks,
Ken
 

6UE5t

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Agreed ... i rather do low boost style like the older days Volvo and Audi, i am more worried of the CVT box. Boost pressure has to come in very gentle and linear, a high end electrical boost controller by RPM is a must. Last time i went to junkyard, a used and seems good condition Volvo S40 2.0T light pressure turbocharger cost me about MYR350. Below is my checklist for turbocharging the Lancer if i really needed that power without swapping shit:

1.) S40 I 2.0 Low pressure turbocharger = MYR 350
2.) Custom exhaust manifold = MYR 600
3.) Used Intercooler = MYR 400 for decent size
4.) Custom intercooler piping = MYR 1,200 depending on length, material and workmanship, my 1jZ custom intercooler and exhaust piping complete is about MYR 2600
5.) Used EBC (M7 model) = MYR 700
6.) Used con shape airfilter = MYR 150
7.) Recirculated BOV = FREE, used my existing one but must reroute the intake
8.) Coolant supply lines for turbo = Unknown but i budget in MYR 300
9.) Samco hoses = budget in MYR 600 for all necessary fitting
10.) Dastek Unichip Q+ = MYR 1,500 including tune
10.1) OPTIONAL = Remap using stock ECU using Openport 2.0 = MYR 1,000
11.) Last but not least, INSTALLATION = MYR 1,000 for good friend's price

I looks like i will need sub 10K to get my car turbo'ed, at least if i am keen, i can pick those parts one by one without having to give one shot like how i did for my 1JZ. Fucking expensive.

Thanks,
Ken
Why EBC M7? Last time I was considering it also cuz cheap but my tuner doesn't like it (he said not as easy to use and setup) so I follow his recommendation to use Profec.

For rm150 you can get new cone filter. I bought Works/Simota 4 inch for just rm120 if not mistaken.

Why Dastek? If can direct remap ECU maybe better.

Installation only rm1k? So damn cheap!
 

Mitevo7

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Why EBC M7? Last time I was considering it also cuz cheap but my tuner doesn't like it (he said not as easy to use and setup) so I follow his recommendation to use Profec.

For rm150 you can get new cone filter. I bought Works/Simota 4 inch for just rm120 if not mistaken.

Why Dastek? If can direct remap ECU maybe better.

Installation only rm1k? So damn cheap!
M7 i have direct supply, its right there in my friend's shop, Profec how much ah ? For use it on CVT its a must to have variable boost across RPM but matching engine torque with the characteristic of CVT.

Same goes to Dastek, its ready at the shop for me to pickup, but i have opt for direct tune on openport 2.0. Cut down the installation charges.

Installation 1K is friend's price, i gave my friend about 50K business during my quest for power and maintaining all my personal vehicles.
 
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6UE5t

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M7 i have direct supply, its right there in my friend's shop, Priofec how much ah ? For use it on CVT its a must to have variable boost across RPM but matching engine torque with the characteristic of CVT.

Same goes to Dastek, its ready at the shop for me to pickup, but i have opt for direct tune on openport 2.0. Cut down the installation charges.

Installation 1K is friend's price, i gave my friend about 50K business during my quest for power and maintaining all my personal vehicles.
The old discontinued Profec B v2 used is already around rm600+. The new OLED Profec is around rm1.5k new, 1k used. I use the older Profec. Very easy to use and able to control boost stable but maybe not based on rpm but on throttle input, so it can quickly reach full boost at mid rpm. But if you want the boost to be softer engagement, then the Set Gain value can be set lower hence the boost starting more progressive.

Your friend is familiar with Evos or not? :)
 

Mitevo7

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The old discontinued Profec B v2 used is already around rm600+. The new OLED Profec is around rm1.5k new, 1k used. I use the older Profec. Very easy to use and able to control boost stable but maybe not based on rpm but on throttle input, so it can quickly reach full boost at mid rpm. But if you want the boost to be softer engagement, then the Set Gain value can be set lower hence the boost starting more progressive.

Your friend is familiar with Evos or not? :)
I think throttle input might be the best way in boosting CVT due to the gearbox revs also react to drivers throttle input. What's your suggestion ?

He's done up a few Evo 7 and 3s, what are you looking at ?
 

Izso

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I was told by a reliable source that the Greddy Profec boost controller is not reliable. When new it'll work well but over time it'll start to cause boost spikes and overboosting issues. One case he showed me was a skyline showing 1bar boost but the ecu was reading over 1.5bars of boost! The supposed best way to manage boost control is via the ECU, just use the profec as a display for extra cool-factor points
 

lsm1991

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I was told by a reliable source that the Greddy Profec boost controller is not reliable. When new it'll work well but over time it'll start to cause boost spikes and overboosting issues. One case he showed me was a skyline showing 1bar boost but the ecu was reading over 1.5bars of boost! The supposed best way to manage boost control is via the ECU, just use the profec as a display for extra cool-factor points
wait wut......
 

6UE5t

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I think throttle input might be the best way in boosting CVT due to the gearbox revs also react to drivers throttle input. What's your suggestion ?

He's done up a few Evo 7 and 3s, what are you looking at ?
But if you floor it from mid rpm then you will get full boost at just mid rpm too. Actually for my Profec setup, I can even get full boost at just 70-80% throttle maybe. But again this is because I set my Set Gain value as close as possible to the target max boost which what the recommended setup if using this Profec.
I was told by a reliable source that the Greddy Profec boost controller is not reliable. When new it'll work well but over time it'll start to cause boost spikes and overboosting issues. One case he showed me was a skyline showing 1bar boost but the ecu was reading over 1.5bars of boost! The supposed best way to manage boost control is via the ECU, just use the profec as a display for extra cool-factor points
Hmm so far what's indicated in my Profec still matches what's shown on my mechanical boost gauge and also ECU when we did on road tuning. Based on what I read, the most important is setting the Set Gain, make sure that you start from lower value (4psi lower than target max boost) then progressively increase while testing. Once you see the boost starts to spike past your target max then you have overdone it and need to decrease it until it holds the boost at target max but not spiking over. So far on mine, my high boost setting is at 80% with Set Gain 1.45b, ends up holding max boost at 1.67b. Btw I'm still using internal actuator wastegate rated at 1.3b. I don't experience any boost creep either meaning I haven't overboost my turbo.
 

Mitevo7

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But if you floor it from mid rpm then you will get full boost at just mid rpm too. Actually for my Profec setup, I can even get full boost at just 70-80% throttle maybe. But again this is because I set my Set Gain value as close as possible to the target max boost which what the recommended setup if using this Profec.
The objective of my swap or mods, it is to get up to speed without having to full throttle or rev the crap out of it, unless i am racing somebody. Even in my 1jz i don't usually floor it unless i have to. I am looking into a steady and smooth boosting. Eh wait ... what happen to my swap topic ? Why it became BOT thread ? Please come back to main topic.

Bad or good news, mechanic friend said don't bother with Airtrek turbo swap, the engine mount from 4g63 to the body is totally in different places. Gearbox also is entirely different too and none of it can be bolt on the chassis without cutting it up.

"Dream" shattered. Hahaha.
 

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