A32 3.0L Water Heater

12savefuel

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Dec 10, 2008
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Hey guys, my water heater pipe finally broke after 14years. Anybody know how much does a new one cost and if places like Sim Ghee has them. Or is my old one repairable and changable to metal pipe.

Anybody got any experience on this matter. Currently I just blocked the two holes from the engine so I can drive the car but the climate control now doesn't really work as there is no hot air to regulate the temperature.
 

doraemon98

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12savefuel said:
Hey guys, my water heater pipe finally broke after 14years. Anybody know how much does a new one cost and if places like Sim Ghee has them. Or is my old one repairable and changable to metal pipe.

Anybody got any experience on this matter. Currently I just blocked the two holes from the engine so I can drive the car but the climate control now doesn't really work as there is no hot air to regulate the temperature.
Cannot modify by cutting away the bocor part, then use ordinary copper pipe to join them back?
 

autocrosser

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This is Malaysia with temp in the 30c's. Why do you need the heater? I don't quite understand.:confused:
Anyway, if it is not the heater core itself and it is just the hose, i think you can just find the correct size hose and replace it. Or any decent garage should be able to rig something up.
Personaly, I really don't see the need to have a functioning heater in this part of the world. My two cents.
 

12savefuel

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Ok let me enlighten you. There are two types of A/C systems.

1. Regular A/C systems which temp is controlled by compressor duty cycle. Most of our local cars have this system.

2. Climate controlled A/C system is where the temp of the air coming out is regulated by mainly mixing hot and cold air. So when you remove the hot water from the engine to the heater, the system doesn't have the ability to regulate the air coming out. So the air will always be max 18deg setting until such time the system sees that its too cold then only will it shut the compressor off. With my car now the tempreture is only one setting max 18deg. if you put 22, 25, 28, it will still have the same temp coming out until you manually cut the A/C or the system automatically does it (but the system is only set to cut when its below the 18deg mark). With the system properly running I usually use 23-24 deg. Now its just one temp and I have to adjust the temp by blower speed or manually cutting the A/C. Its really cold in the morning at 7am even at blower 1 speed and 18deg, because the heater section is kaput and the a/c cannot regulate the air coming out.

That is why I want to get it fixed. It also seems like a hell a lot of work to get the stupid heater out as the blower, evaporator and all the middle ducting have to be removed to get to the heater.

So all cars with climate control A/C system mixes hot and cold air to get the right temp. This is uauslly found in higher end models. Most of the heater pipe is made of plastic and it usually lasts 10years. Mine already 14yrs so that considered good. But why can they make it of of metal. Always want to find ways to make money la, this OE companies.
 
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autocrosser

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Well, thanks for the info. I do know how difficult it is to remove the heater core. I have seen it done and it is not a pretty sight.
If it is just the hose itself, you don't have to remove the core, do you? I hope not. Good luck and hope you fix it.
To the other dude, there is no need to give me a "dislike" for my slightly off-base comment. That's uncalled for!
 

12savefuel

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Well, thanks for the info. I do know how difficult it is to remove the heater core. I have seen it done and it is not a pretty sight.
If it is just the hose itself, you don't have to remove the core, do you? I hope not. Good luck and hope you fix it.
To the other dude, there is no need to give me a "dislike" for my slightly off-base comment. That's uncalled for!
I think this job better go back to TCSC to do it la, since its a major job. Actually I should have been more clear. Its actually the heater pipe is broken as its made of plastic. Not the heater hose which is rubber. So have to open up the heater to see if they can cut away the plastic part and weld a copper pipe to it. Fingers crossed. Also at the same time will do a complete oil seal change for the car as its never been and its leaking like hell from everywhere. Cannot image what the bill going to be. But what to do, the VQ30 such a nice engine cannot tahan to give up. Some more no value now also.

Thanks guys for all your 2cents.
 

weikee

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Jul 16, 2006
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My heater hose burst, now temporary bypass. Sim Gee do sell the local made hose, but no stock.

Yes, with water heater, temperature is much better. When we set to 22c, the temperature is constant at around the temperature. Without it, you feel sudden chill, than not cold and come back chilled again.

I think the heater condenser (I think this is what we call), can find at chop shop. Give it a try.
 

12savefuel

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My heater hose burst, now temporary bypass. Sim Gee do sell the local made hose, but no stock.

Yes, with water heater, temperature is much better. When we set to 22c, the temperature is constant at around the temperature. Without it, you feel sudden chill, than not cold and come back chilled again.

I think the heater condenser (I think this is what we call), can find at chop shop. Give it a try.
I also changed heater hose (before my heater pipe broke) from Sim ghee (non original) it was cheap but not sure if reliable because I notice the hose quite soft and expands until quite fat when hot as compared to the ori nissan. But the non ori hose still new so don't know how long it will last.
 

12savefuel

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Guys up date on my water heater problem. As you guys knoe my heater pipe broke. So as a temporary fix I bought 2x 18mm Rubber stopper to plug the coolant supply and return pipe from the engine. There is top pipe and lower pipe. The first time I did it after just 2 days it started leaking. So I bought another one as I might have accidently just nicked the rubber and weaken it while installing it. The 2nd one spring a leak just the next day. and it was the same lower pipe and it never happened on the top pipe.

So I thought about it. The lower hose must be the supply/pressure pipe and the top must be the ruturn and the stopper can't hold the pressure.

So I went back to the spare parts shop and asked them to show me what I could use as a bypass "U" hose. We luckily found one. It was labeled "Ford Ranger Part Number WL51-15-261B. Cost was RM13.00. So I went home and looked at how to install it. Finally found that the hose is slightly too long, so you would have to cut off about 4-5cm for the top pipe and the lower pipe about 2cm. I didn't cut the bottom hose as I installed it first and didn't want the hassle of opening it up again.

So I only cut about 5cm for the top hose. It still has a small kink in the hose as I didn't cut the lower portion. But the hoses more or less expanded out when ever the system built up in pressure.

Hope this will solve the problem. Any hope this helps any one who has the same problem in the future.

For those who are not DIY guys and this happens and you don't want to get the heater fixed and the mechanic just plugs the supply/return pipe up. Tell him it doesn't work and its going to be a return job and ask him to pay for it and towing charges if the car breaks down. Get them to use a return/bypass "U" shaped hose. Size of the hose can be 18-19mm for best fit, the Ford ranger hose was 19mm. I would go 20mm max as anything will be abit to big and loose.
 

Kevertz

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I face the problem too. I ask the ac shop to dismantle the heater coil out n i send it to the welding shop to replace the plastic pipe to aluminum pipe then install back.. the aluminum welding just cost me bout RM100.00 n fixing back the heater RM 150 with R134 gas.. Total 250.00..
 

12savefuel

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Great info Kevert thanks. Will do the same when I get some time.
 

Jason_10

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Kevertz,

I have an A33 Cefiro. Is the process the same for my car? My heater pipe cracked. Heater is bypassed right now. Can the heater core be accessed by removing the cooling coil? I read before you have to remove the entire dash for this.
 

sb3

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Guys up date on my water heater problem. As you guys knoe my heater pipe broke. So as a temporary fix I bought 2x 18mm Rubber stopper to plug the coolant supply and return pipe from the engine. There is top pipe and lower pipe. The first time I did it after just 2 days it started leaking. So I bought another one as I might have accidently just nicked the rubber and weaken it while installing it. The 2nd one spring a leak just the next day. and it was the same lower pipe and it never happened on the top pipe.

So I thought about it. The lower hose must be the supply/pressure pipe and the top must be the ruturn and the stopper can't hold the pressure.

So I went back to the spare parts shop and asked them to show me what I could use as a bypass "U" hose. We luckily found one. It was labeled "Ford Ranger Part Number WL51-15-261B. Cost was RM13.00. So I went home and looked at how to install it. Finally found that the hose is slightly too long, so you would have to cut off about 4-5cm for the top pipe and the lower pipe about 2cm. I didn't cut the bottom hose as I installed it first and didn't want the hassle of opening it up again.

So I only cut about 5cm for the top hose. It still has a small kink in the hose as I didn't cut the lower portion. But the hoses more or less expanded out when ever the system built up in pressure.

Hope this will solve the problem. Any hope this helps any one who has the same problem in the future.

For those who are not DIY guys and this happens and you don't want to get the heater fixed and the mechanic just plugs the supply/return pipe up. Tell him it doesn't work and its going to be a return job and ask him to pay for it and towing charges if the car breaks down. Get them to use a return/bypass "U" shaped hose. Size of the hose can be 18-19mm for best fit, the Ford ranger hose was 19mm. I would go 20mm max as anything will be abit to big and loose.
Bro u got that right! I hv been using the u pipe for many years no problem!
 

12savefuel

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Guys a quick update. I searched online for the plastic replacement pipe and most sites sell them as complete units with the heater even though its a separate part in the parts catalog. So to solve the problem permanently I decided to fully by pass the heater and use a bypass hose as described above.

Since my A/C compressor was worn including the bearing inside I changed to a rebuilt compressor. Then I got the guy to install an electronic thermostat to shut the compressor so I can regulate the temp. Its not the best way but its a permanent solution. Now the A/C is no longer climate control version but a regular version like we have on many cars where the compressor is cycled on and off to regulate the temp.
 

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Hi guys,

i was just wonderin' wer i can get those PU mounting & how much will it cost me & wat will a normal wan cost? i can choose not 2 change all the mounting at once rite?

any1 did diy mounting b4?
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