4g93T gsr engine rebuild, need advice

[chrissyong]

Emanage Blue can boost 1 bar with 530cc injectors ? I thought standalone only safe for boost 1 bar or more ?? Correct me If I'm wrong ~ Thanks ! :wavey:

stand alone ecu can do everything u want,like the the anti lag direct control the injector cycle duty degree and initial coil or crank timing and degree and rev cut aux point,that thing piggy back ecu can not do,and never can do~~~

 

[veilsideboyz]

stand alone ecu can do everything u want,like the the anti lag direct control the injector cycle duty degree and initial coil or crank timing and degree and rev cut aux point,that thing piggy back ecu can not do,and never can do~~~

Wow...Thanks !!
But..my budget only go for Piggyback :rolleyes:
By the way..hope Emanage Blue enough to get around 300whp !! :proud:

 

[amel666]

1.6 bar no need standalone lerr.. e-manage enough edy.evo's maf + e-manage for gsr quite good combination edy,can try to hack the maf :)
wut turbo r u using? td05 20g + e-manage + 560cc injector + evo maf enough edy.. no need to pening2 with standalone unless ur going for bigger turbo(gt series), bigger injector( 1000cc above) then u can opt for standalone la.

my project on going laa and it's not 2.1 ltr lerr..

I was thinking of boosting higher (2 bar max) coz wanna utilze the gt28's flow capacity...
injector 510cc but still use MAF 609 la coz use e-manage blu.
That's why i'm afraid if e-manage can't cater to higher than 1.6 bar of boost..

Anyway, wat ems are u using bro? Got haltech cheap wanna sell?

 

[chrissyong]

I was thinking of boosting higher (2 bar max) coz wanna utilze the gt28's flow capacity...
injector 510cc but still use MAF 609 la coz use e-manage blu.
That's why i'm afraid if e-manage can't cater to higher than 1.6 bar of boost..

Anyway, wat ems are u using bro? Got haltech cheap wanna sell?

microtech lt10s brand new want?

 

[goo_61t]

I was thinking of boosting higher (2 bar max) coz wanna utilze the gt28's flow capacity...
injector 510cc but still use MAF 609 la coz use e-manage blu.
That's why i'm afraid if e-manage can't cater to higher than 1.6 bar of boost..

Anyway, wat ems are u using bro? Got haltech cheap wanna sell?

haiyaa sold my sprint500 edy.. i'm running megasquirt lerr anyways e-manage blue can boost 2 bar lerr no hal.. evo MAF can still withstand the gt28 air flow(CFM) at 2 bar i think or perhaps u need to hack ur MAF abit :)
e-manage tune by throttle point vs RPM so no worries.. injector 510cc mebe sufficient but dun knw bout the duty cycle though..but if u ask me " x rugi" if u change to bigger injector..
it's all in the tune bro :),neway who tune ur car?tune "gune idung" or got tuning aid or tools?

 

[thesyko]

Guys from reading this whole thread right up till now I gather that;

But before hand let me tell you that I'm running a 4G93T with TD04 that is modded with bigger FIN, 38mm wastegate, ECU that has rev-cut set to 10k rpm and no speed-cut.
My target that I would like to achieve is a modest 250whp.

1) Its safe for me to use standard GSR (4G93T) internals and boost till says not more than 1.4/1.5 bar (20.30/21.75 psi) with proper fueling and tuning. How reliable is the 4G93T internals?

2) Will E-manage be sufficient? Since this is a road use car so i guess it will be okay. Maybe it'll see 1 or 2 track days (if my wife permits la :p)

3) I currently have a 1.8mm metal gasket that is taken from my old 4G92 DOHC Turbo. Can I reuse it back here on the 4G93T? or is 1.8mm a little bit too much?

4) I'm planning to dump in a 269 degree camshaft. From my user standing that 268/269 is street-racing cams, am I rite? Or what do you guys recommend.

5) I'm planning to perform an engine balancing. My question is, what do I give the balancing shop? The block, crank, flywheel, clutch cover and clutch plate, conrods and pistons only rite? Or do I need to give them the new main bearings, piston rings and also conrod bearings?

6) For engine head port and polish, what do I need to give them? Engine head and new camshaft rite? Do I need to grind in new valves also and do I provide them the intake manifold so they can port and match in to the intake part of the engine head?

7) Last question, how much will the engine balancing and port & polish cost me? I want a good and reliable mechanic / shop to do it for me, any recommendations? Do I need to also lighten my crankshaft or lighten my flywheel?

Thanks for your answers in advance :)

 

[contreasjun27]

Guys from reading this whole thread right up till now I gather that;

But before hand let me tell you that I'm running a 4G93T with TD04 that is modded with bigger FIN, 38mm wastegate, ECU that has rev-cut set to 10k rpm and no speed-cut.
My target that I would like to achieve is a modest 250whp.

1) Its safe for me to use standard GSR (4G93T) internals and boost till says not more than 1.4/1.5 bar (20.30/21.75 psi) with proper fueling and tuning. How reliable is the 4G93T internals?

2) Will E-manage be sufficient? Since this is a road use car so i guess it will be okay. Maybe it'll see 1 or 2 track days (if my wife permits la :p)

3) I currently have a 1.8mm metal gasket that is taken from my old 4G92 DOHC Turbo. Can I reuse it back here on the 4G93T? or is 1.8mm a little bit too much?

4) I'm planning to dump in a 269 degree camshaft. From my user standing that 268/269 is street-racing cams, am I rite? Or what do you guys recommend.

5) I'm planning to perform an engine balancing. My question is, what do I give the balancing shop? The block, crank, flywheel, clutch cover and clutch plate, conrods and pistons only rite? Or do I need to give them the new main bearings, piston rings and also conrod bearings?

6) For engine head port and polish, what do I need to give them? Engine head and new camshaft rite? Do I need to grind in new valves also and do I provide them the intake manifold so they can port and match in to the intake part of the engine head?

7) Last question, how much will the engine balancing and port & polish cost me? I want a good and reliable mechanic / shop to do it for me, any recommendations? Do I need to also lighten my crankshaft or lighten my flywheel?

Thanks for your answers in advance :)

for me stock internal can go until 1 bar max only with proper fuelling...
if you want to go for 1.4/1.5 bar you definately need stronger conrods and forged piston to withstand it in order for your engine to run healthy.
Besides that 1.8mm metal gasket is too thick I think is it better for you to measure the accurate compression ratio before deciding on how think you should use on the metal gasket.

 

[speed2horizon]

Guys from reading this whole thread right up till now I gather that;

But before hand let me tell you that I'm running a 4G93T with TD04 that is modded with bigger FIN, 38mm wastegate, ECU that has rev-cut set to 10k rpm and no speed-cut.
My target that I would like to achieve is a modest 250whp.

Specify more on your TD04. Bigger fin means which fin..? What size..?

1) Its safe for me to use standard GSR (4G93T) internals and boost till says not more than 1.4/1.5 bar (20.30/21.75 psi) with proper fueling and tuning. How reliable is the 4G93T internals?

Answer is YES, if U mentioned proper fueling and tunning with proper data logging done during the tunning to avoid knocks. Reliability wise, not an issue to worry.

2) Will E-manage be sufficient? Since this is a road use car so i guess it will be okay. Maybe it'll see 1 or 2 track days (if my wife permits la :p)

E-manage blue is sufficient if u are not upgrading ur injector to 150% bigger than your stock 390cc. Track is also not a problem. But maybe an oil cooler is recommended.

But of course, standalones rulez for street and track... The ability to fully control your injector and your ignition unit and map according to ur engine customization... Bare in mind, there are limit of what u can do with your emanage...

3) I currently have a 1.8mm metal gasket that is taken from my old 4G92 DOHC Turbo. Can I reuse it back here on the 4G93T? or is 1.8mm a little bit too much?

YES. everything is the same. But it's not so adviceable to use a used gasket. 1.8mm, U'll be getting CR around 8.0:1. traffic jam land launching not so nice. But still acceptable due to the 1834cc capacity.

4) I'm planning to dump in a 269 degree camshaft. From my user standing that 268/269 is street-racing cams, am I rite? Or what do you guys recommend.

252/264/272/288 can all be used for street... It's Malaysia here. It all depended on how much one individual can take the bad iddle due to high duration cam.

Also note, E-manage blue does not have cam correction. So, prepare for bad iddling when u have too high duration cams.

269 is only 3 degree lower than the 272 which is recommended for track use. Well, I guess it's ok... Maybe ur idle sounds like "Mesin kuda"... hehee...

5) I'm planning to perform an engine balancing. My question is, what do I give the balancing shop? The block, crank, flywheel, clutch cover and clutch plate, conrods and pistons only rite? Or do I need to give them the new main bearings, piston rings and also conrod bearings?

Actually, overall dynamic balancing is only done on the moving part of the engine. And all the bearings and rings are already well balanced before they are on the market.

-Block(Option)
-Crank
-Flywheel
-Clutch + cover
-Conrod
-Piston
-Bearings(no)
-Rings(no)

6) For engine head port and polish, what do I need to give them? Engine head and new camshaft rite? Do I need to grind in new valves also and do I provide them the intake manifold so they can port and match in to the intake part of the engine head?

For port and polish, u don't need to give them the cams. If' u are going to dismental everything, just give the the engine cylinder head kosong.

Better to give them the manifold too.

Unless u are doing a valve job, like 3 angle/5 angle/oversizing... Else, keep the valve.

If u want to have a clean balance porting job, send it to the profesionals. Recommended shop are Matspeed or Nasty Port. They have the benchflow test machine.

7) Last question, how much will the engine balancing and port & polish cost me? I want a good and reliable mechanic / shop to do it for me, any recommendations? Do I need to also lighten my crankshaft or lighten my flywheel?

Engine balancing will cost u around RM500-RM800 without labour of dismentling ur engine. Port and polish will cost you RM500-RM1000. All depend on where u are sending your stuff to...

Recommendation:
Head port and polish as mentioned above.
Engine balancing, there's alot of engineering shop in Sunway and USJ that does a decent job.

Thanks for your answers in advance :)

You are welcome. But there's just a few more recommendation.

1) Since u are dismentling ur engine, skali change to racing bearings. U'll never regret.

2) For higher boost application, u can look for TOYOTA 4AGZE pistons. They are tougher than stock GSR pistons.

3) U mentioned about 10krpm. By the time U rev to 7500krpm, U'll be experiencing valve float and will see dynograph going down. Get urself a set of valve spring with higher spring rate.

for me stock internal can go until 1 bar max only with proper fuelling...
if you want to go for 1.4/1.5 bar you definately need stronger conrods and forged piston to withstand it in order for your engine to run healthy.
Besides that 1.8mm metal gasket is too thick I think is it better for you to measure the accurate compression ratio before deciding on how think you should use on the metal gasket.

Yakah..? My friend's old GTI boosting at 1.4 bar with stock internals and methanol, achieving 270WHP just before the valve float phenomena took place... EMS is Hlatech E6X of course.

My foreman boosted 1.6bar with RON97 fuel with emanage. But iddling out la... Damn 9 rich...

Another GSR achieving with stock internals boosting at 1.5-1.6bars running with methanol + microtech 280WHP...

With bad tunning, Forged pistons + H Beam conrods also can melt...

What do you think..?

Hardware or software..?

 

[veilsideboyz]

Walao...reply so much !!
Good answer !!
You all should spent Speedhorizon taiko for teh tarik + Buffet !!

 

[contreasjun27]

Yakah..? My friend's old GTI boosting at 1.4 bar with stock internals and methanol, achieving 270WHP just before the valve float phenomena took place... EMS is Hlatech E6X of course.

My foreman boosted 1.6bar with RON97 fuel with emanage. But iddling out la... Damn 9 rich...

Another GSR achieving with stock internals boosting at 1.5-1.6bars running with methanol + microtech 280WHP...

With bad tunning, Forged pistons + H Beam conrods also can melt...

What do you think..?

Hardware or software..?

sifu memang sifu already said so much...
hehe i guess is the software problem gua haha
btw all ur stock internals also got standalone thats why can make the tuning perfect mah...
if emanage can meh?

 

[goo_61t]

Yakah..? My friend's old GTI boosting at 1.4 bar with stock internals and methanol, achieving 270WHP just before the valve float phenomena took place... EMS is Hlatech E6X of course.

My foreman boosted 1.6bar with RON97 fuel with emanage. But iddling out la... Damn 9 rich...

Another GSR achieving with stock internals boosting at 1.5-1.6bars running with methanol + microtech 280WHP...

With bad tunning, Forged pistons + H Beam conrods also can melt...

What do you think..?

Hardware or software..?

We are talking bout pump fuel, ur fren running 1.5 - 1.6 bars on methanol..
compare the knock threshold between pump fuel and methanol.

no doubt we can run 1.6 bar on standard internals provided it's properly tuned and i doubt it can run with the stock ecu ignition mapping,the ignition mapping must be cut down a bit in few areas where the engine tend to knock.. with safc can;t do anything bout it..but can be touched up with e-manage, less ignition = less power u can achieve much more power with stronger internals

it's not boost that kill an engine, it's detonation that kill's engine.

 

[contreasjun27]

We are talking bout pump fuel, ur fren running 1.5 - 1.6 bars on methanol..
compare the knock threshold between pump fuel and methanol.

no doubt we can run 1.6 bar on standard internals provided it's properly tuned and i doubt it can run with the stock ecu ignition mapping,the ignition mapping must be cut down a bit in few areas where the engine tend to knock.. with safc can;t do anything bout it..but can be touched up with e-manage, less ignition = less power u can achieve much more power with stronger internals

it's not boost that kill an engine, it's detonation that kill's engine.

I love your your quote hehe " It's not boost that kill an engine, it's detonation that kill's engine "

 

[jinkl]

I love your your quote hehe " It's not boost that kill an engine, it's detonation that kill's engine "

very true
who said u cant run 3bar daily drive, can laaa
use compression 6:1 lol lariii lariiiii

 

[contreasjun27]

very true
who said u cant run 3bar daily drive, can laaa
use compression 6:1 lol lariii lariiiii

funny lah you Jinkl!!!

 

[goo_61t]

very true
who said u cant run 3bar daily drive, can laaa
use compression 6:1 lol lariii lariiiii

ahahaha..daymmnnnn...
6:1 compression huhu sudden recall my wiseco that i sold last time..so damn low the compression hakhakhak can make it as ash ray bai ahahahaha