4g93 Mivec Turbo Waja project(Many pictures be warned)

[sweelt]

Nightstalker dude : The 150A circuit breaker is essential ke? I think I need to add this

I use ANL fuse during relocate battery to rear. Circuit breaker more user friendly.
Cable shorts, BBQ the car.

 

[Nightstalker1993]

Nightstalker dude : The 150A circuit breaker is essential ke? I think I need to add this

If your battery is behind and you're running a looong line to the front(which is confirmed), then you will definitely need some kind of fuse to protect from short circuit in case the long line gets severed in a crash or wear and tear due to chafing etc and cause a short circuit. Those large cables combined with the low internal resistance of our lead acid battery, will cause it to pull like more than 1000amps(in theory) if it short circuits and will produce god loads amount of heat within the battery itself and the cable probably causing the battery to explode or fireworks show at the cables causing fire in a worst case scenario.

The reason I chose a circuit breaker is because it have a lower resistance than a comparable 150amp fuse and I can easily disconnect the electrical system in case I want to do maintenance relating to the electrical system. Alot easier than removing the reinstalling the terminals.

nice build! may i know where you bought the welding cables, the battery and the circuit breaker and roughly how much the price is?

Thanks! I bought the welding cables here, the '500A' version which as you can see in the specs provided it's 70mm^2 cross-sectional diameter which puts it at an equivalent of a 00 gauge cable which should be 67mm^2. Don't believe those amperage ratings as they are all purely marketing. If the cables are copper, the load carrying capacity is solely dependent on the cross-sectional diameter of the cable and nothing else.

Battery is from a company called 'Gama Alliance' in puchong and the battery is an MSB MS12-65 ULTRA which I see one person selling in Lelong as well, but I remember purchasing from that company slightly cheaper. These are high quality AGM VRLA cells and not your normal car battery, these are meant for deep discharge which was why i opted for the larger size to compensate slightly as deep discharge batteries have a higher internal resistance compared to your usual car batteries which is designed for high current supply for a short period of time. Crimping and terminal lugs is done by a company called 'Conway' in Klang and he charged me a decent price but he told me he don't usually offer crimping services as their core business is selling the terminal lugs and crimping tool.

Circuit breaker was bought on eBay here. Don't get those china circuit breaker which can be bought for like rm20-50 or so as they're pretty crap, already broke one and another one i swapped to this as I was not confident in the China unit.

Hope this helps! Took me very long to source the batteries, cables, terminal lugs/crimping and circuit breaker when I was planning it last time though.

 

[marsha1l_v6]

nice build there....and thanks for the sharing..

how long does it take to rebuild since you engine spitted out piston?

 

[Nightstalker1993]

nice build there....and thanks for the sharing..

how long does it take to rebuild since you engine spitted out piston?

Thanks!

Engine spat out it's piston on late October 2015 if I remembered correctly. First startup was July 2017, so almost 2 years. Engine actually went into the car in late 2016 so it was sitting there after I assembled it for almost a year before starting which is why it rusted so bad. In between that I rode motorbike. Anybody interested in a Suzuki VS125? :rolleyes:

I use ANL fuse during relocate battery to rear. Circuit breaker more user friendly.
Cable shorts, BBQ the car.

Yeah that's the more common option. But circuit breaker have lesser resistance than an ANL fuse of comparable amperage rating so that's another reason as well. My car starts as if the battery is in front, very strong start everytime

 

[Izso]

Yeah that's the more common option. But circuit breaker have lesser resistance than an ANL fuse of comparable amperage rating so that's another reason as well. My car starts as if the battery is in front, very strong start everytime

Where'd you buy the breaker from? I think I need to get one.

 

[Nightstalker1993]

Where'd you buy the breaker from? I think I need to get one.

There's a link at post #32. I installed the breaker ar the negative side as I don't want the terminals to be live and possible of shorting

 

[sanekit]

There's a link at post #32. I installed the breaker ar the negative side as I don't want the terminals to be live and possible of shorting

I dont see the links.. :hmmmm:

 

[Nightstalker1993]

I dont see the links.. :hmmmm:

I linked it in the word 'here', as in I bought it 'here'

 

[parakey]

I dont see the links.. :hmmmm:

Nah. HERE < https ://www.ebay.com.my/itm/Stinger-R-SCBM150-Marine-Circuit-Breaker-150-Amps-/253000151030?hash=item3ae7fbeff6

 

[sweelt]

Thanks!

Yeah that's the more common option. But circuit breaker have lesser resistance than an ANL fuse of comparable amperage rating so that's another reason as well. My car starts as if the battery is in front, very strong start everytime

i can see you use black color pure copper cable. Yup engine start easily.
Orange color welding cable not that cunn in long run, just copper plating. No harm to invest more.

 

[punk]

how u tighten the flywheel bolt without slip?

u using airgun or by hand?

i slip one of my bolt using 17mm hexagon socket.

Or i should using inch socket?

 

[Nightstalker1993]

Nah. HERE < https ://www.ebay.com.my/itm/Stinger-R-SCBM150-Marine-Circuit-Breaker-150-Amps-/253000151030?hash=item3ae7fbeff6

Should had bolded the link in the original post, have to squint eyes to find back the 'here' word if never read the whole post properly

i can see you use black color pure copper cable. Yup engine start easily.
Orange color welding cable not that cunn in long run, just copper plating. No harm to invest more.

Colour of the sleeve can be anything, orange also can be pure copper, but I guess in our market there seems to be higher amount of cheap cables with the orange insulation thus making people think orange insulation = not pure copper.

Also another extremely important factor is the cross-sectional diameter/AWG of the cable. Most local welding cable seems to be graded by 'amp' like 300a, 500a etc which is ridiculous and have no standard at all. I went to the welding shop and compared different cables rated '500a' and they differ in AWG wildly, also prices. It's like advertising 'watts' in audio amps, but the actual wattage is no where near the real RMS watt the amps can push out. Since the positive cable is uaully 4-5m long, our car battery system operates at a relatively 'low' 12v and starters usually pulling around 50-100amps, the higher AWG cable(thinner cable) will greatly increase the resistance of the cable and cause a voltage drop during cranking given V = IR representing voltage drop. So in short, longer cable/smaller diameter cable will cause an increase in resistance in the overall cable and increase voltage drop during cranking, which means there is less available voltage at the starter and thus causing 'weak' starter. The cable I chose has a 70mm^2 cross-sectional diameter which is roughly equivalent to 00 AWG cable.

Then again my battery system is greatly overkill as I've heard people running great with only 4AWG cable. Also my battery is rated to discharge 100A for 10 minutes from a full charge, so technically my battery can survive cranking the starter continuously for 10 minutes, just probably not the starter

how u tighten the flywheel bolt without slip?

u using airgun or by hand?

i slip one of my bolt using 17mm hexagon socket.

Or i should using inch socket?

I use an airgun with a 6-sided impact socket and need to make sure the socket sits properly as even a slight misalignment can cause it to slip. You can try inches see if it fits better or not, but I'm not sure of the effectivity of that

 

[Nightstalker1993]

Anyway, just did a shakedown up Ulu Yam 2 days ago and the car performed quite well, datalogs of AFR, fuel pressure and oil pressure were good. The only issue was overheating power steering pump which presented itself with a whining sound as if my car had a supercharger when I reached the guardhouse, PS fluid boiling and overflowing and thermometer gun showing 130c when i first checked, probably hit 140-150c at the hottest. Tires were better than expected considering they are 2014 RE002's in 205/50/15. Still need to get used to the way the LSD handles but feels great being able to throttle into and during the corner as well without wheelspinning and/or understeering

This was showing 130c when i first measured

And when I reached home, found out this

Next up on to-do list would be power steering fluid cooler, now just need to find out where i can fit it. All the space in my engine bay had already been used up

Because apparently the Lancer CK4A MIVEC RS came with power steering cooler

 

[parakey]

The only issue was overheating power steering pump which presented itself with a whining sound as if my car had a supercharger when I reached the guardhouse, PS fluid boiling and overflowing and thermometer gun showing 130c when i first checked, probably hit 140-150c at the hottest.

Why would power steering oil overheat? Is it related to the oil as in they havent been changed in a long time, or maybe contaminated with water? Or is your hydraulic system overheating from overpressure?

Rust issue also a bit wierd. My car also left idle in open parking for a long time. Havent encountered such rusting before.

 

[vr2turbo]

Oh! you joined the Saturday morning drive......