Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Car Talk' started by Izso, Jul 12, 2017.
Might as well change it. The negative is grounded to the car chassis right?
Or just add more cables to earth the battery......
Use the same 500Amp cable (if u have balance) for negative too. Just connect to any chassis bolts around trunk.
Like sifu's mentioned.
Just done it today. Hope the electricity supply is constant stable now.
Just done it, hope no more weird electrical issue from now on.
You make it sound like your cars a disco at night when you drive. Hahaha!
Haha !! My car is gauge free !! I don't even know what boost am i running currently. My weird electrical issues before are dimming lights, slow rolling power windows, weak response, RPM constantly died on itself. Now all the above sort of solved, headlights still dimming, my mechanic recommend me to convert to LED as old style Halogen takes alot juice.
no no nonononoonononono...
dont shove any aftermarket led/hid bulb into stock halogen headlamp....
a very big no...
gain glare for not improving any of your actual driving light needs....
do atleast projector retrofit..even the cheapest mini H1 bi-xenon (hi-low) projector would be a much better upgrade than replacing halogen bulb with led/hid...
Yah! halogen reflectors does not work with led bulbs..........
Not quite, i installed it on my Lancer with H7 Halogen reflector, the brightness and distance covered is great and passed every JPJ roadblock at night !
u never knew how many ppl in the car from oncoming traffic cursing you..
try drive up to a flat wall and see your headlight beam pattern...was it on the left or the right kind of beam pattern in this picture
even on halogen reflector...the oem original good condition headlight still do have obvious "cut-off" line visible like on the right... and good hotspot in the middle near the cut-off line...
if the cut-off line is blurry and many light streak shining upwards, means thats the glare...and total not acceptable to be used on the road...
**cut-off line pattern depends on LHD/RHD and or EU or DOT pattern...
**example of cut-off line pattern:
1- RHD EU \___
2- LHD EU ___/
3- RHD DOT -----\____
4- LHD DOT ____/-----
this applied to reflector based and projector based headlight...
Also what color temp light you using? 4.3K below should be fine, higher I am sure cannot pass. My friend use halogen bulb 6k already kena.....lol
4.3k :) ... the beam is tilted slightly downwards ... i don't need range but wide angle of the beam.
It's been quite a while since my last post, good news to bring is i have rectified the RPM cluster intermittent turned off issue, just some messed up wire connections, but paid 150 smackers to get it all fixed up.
1.) Front, 343 mm disc rotor with OEM M3 brake caliper, rear stock system but upgraded brake pad and disc rotor with made in Germany brand (forgot the damn name)
2.) Front 26 mm adjustable ARB, rear 23 mm adjustable ARB (should be Eibach due to i got it out from a junked E46).
1.) TPS readjust and realigned - higher and more stable idiling, better throttle response and slightly improved acceleration
1.) Braking power is superb and no visible sliding at the rear, most people with upgraded front brake system will experience this if they leave the rear brake system untouched.
2.) Steering turns sharper with higher precision into and out from corners, lesser oversteer symptoms and very stable rear end. High speed turning is like on rail eventhough i am on shitty tyres.
3.) Acceleration improved again, turbo boost seems to be more optimized for some reason.
1.) Enable sequential mode - 800 smackers
2.) Better tyres - Unknown smackers
Sorry to reply this late, i think its more to the right but a little to the left, i would say 70% look like the right beam. I even looked at it while having my Lancer driving behind me to check the beam, it seems pretty acceptable and not bright as shit like old times HID.
Tyres if okay, use until you feel uncomfortable with them.......lol
Got budget smackers and wallet clearer also......hahhahhaha
This freaking tyre is all good but with minor vibrations on steering wheel, this sort of tyre need onwheel balancing which around my area doesn't have and i am too cheap to pay for balancing the tyre for over 20 bucks. Haha
Are your rims a perfect fit to the hub? Did you install center cone?
Previously I had this problem also. The tyre shop boss where i do my balancing, he always centralized the rims for me. Later on he manage to measure and find me some center cones. Nowadays no problem at all with balancing vibration.
On wheel balancing is good, but problem is, every time you need to remove your wheels for any repairs, the balancing runs and need to re-balance. Now on Off wheel balancing, I have no problems at all.....
I am using BMW original rims for E46, and no i didn't install any center cone. Some tyres like Falken Ziew 914 will never be balanced off wheel, it has to be done on wheel. This shitty Membat Passion tyres are good for grip but shitty in terms of comfort.
ZE-914 are Falken Ziex mid tyres only, should try Falken Azenis range FK510