1jz E36 BMW frankensteining

[6UE5t]

I'm happy you read the article, at least someone learned something ;)

You are absolutely right in your assessment. But all I am doing is arming you guys with knowledge, you would need to decide what's the best compromise for you. We're all running street cars not track cars, so you can't go to that extreme.

Are the benefits real? I am sure it is because science. Are the benefits meaningful? Well when you're not fighting for tenths of a second on a track I guess, no.

Sure, all the sizes you listed will fit. But whether its the best performing size, well, depends on the actual width on the actual tire. But as above, the benefits may not be significant.

I think the order of importance is
1. The tire itself, a perfect fitting ling long is still shit compared to ps4
2. The rim, fake taiwan shit is fake taiwan shit. I don't even want to say much about this. Choose the width that runs the size YOU want.
3. The ideal size to match between the tire and rim.

So using myself as an example. My target tire size is 245/40 R18 square. My tire choice in Malaysia is PS4, followed by PS4, and then its PS4. No PS4? maybe GY F1A3. If I'm poor, Kumho PS91 or Hankook V12 evo2

Rim size is 8.5jj
According to Tirerack measurement
245/40 R18 PS4 is 8.3" tread width, of course Malaysia may be different as these are German PS4, not sure where MY PS4 are made.
245/40 R18 F1A3 is 8.2" tread width, I know Malaysia ones are imported from Germany as well, so same as Tirerack
245/40 R18 V12e2 is 8.3" tread width, tire rack ones are made in Korea, so are the ones in Malaysia
245/40 R18 PS91 is 7.4" tread width, so this tire con9lan7firm will be shit sizing compared to the above 2 tires BUT

235/40 R18 PS91 is 8.3" tread width, so this tire would be ideal for my target rim size as well. Again, all PS91 is made in kimchiland, so the sizing should be same with tire rack. But at this size, it is SMALLER diameter than 245/40 R18 above, at 25.4" versus 25.7". So again, its a compromise.

So yes, quite interesting to KNOW that the tire width stamped on the tire is actually meaningless. When a 235 can be wider than a 245. But as you can see, out of 4 tires I shortlisted, 3 are actually ideal for the 8.5jj size.

OF COURSE, the tread width of the tire is subject to change base on the manufactured batch and place of manufacture. If let's say the 245/40 R18 PS4 is 7.3", lari by 1", I'd probably then just choose the Hankook v12e2, save some money in my pocket and call it a day.

Of course I read, no way I'd skip a good article about tire performance! :lol: Tire is arguably the most important yet easiest mod that we can do to upgrade our car, so yeah I'd read all that.

Agree with your prioritization, the tire first, so choosing the best tire model you can afford is the most important.

I think the author forgot to consider or note that using different widths will in most cases also change sidewall height and stiffness which also affects handling and comfort level. He did not mention or provide analysis about this.

Btw now you're using big 18x8.5jj rims but also yet to unveil anything about what car is using that rims leh! ;)

 

[Izso]

2. Hehehe, water temp high in jams has nothing to do with oil temperature. Something wrong with the radiator cooling system. Come out yum cha i tell you story of water temp overheat for my sampan... the solution you will laugh until tears come out.

Seriously? Good ah.. I need to fix it.

 

[Nightstalker1993]

Seriously? Good ah.. I need to fix it.

Told you 100x edi buy the SPAL duwan listen

 

[Izso]

Told you 100x edi buy the SPAL duwan listen

I told you I wanted to buy!! Just that budget doesn't permit at the moment. So living with it for now.

 

[Izso]

Guys question :

I have found that my IACV is deleted (aftermarket TB and intake manifold), using a Nissan Q35 TB (cable) and a FICD which are obviously all non standard. The TB itself seems to have a funky adjuster screw which moves after a move (possibly when it's hot cuz cold it seems to be tight). Right now my idle when cold is good. When hot it hunts 100-200rpm between 800 to 1000 rpm which annoys the hell outta me.

I plan to Loctite the screw to stop it from moving and maybe swap out the FICD just in case it's faulty. Is there anything else I should look at to resolve this? Tuner earlier said the ECU cannot seem to keep up with it to compensate and suspects the TB is not good.

 

[^pomen_GTR^]

dont loctite...

dab a smack of grey rtv to seal and prevent the idle screw from moving

 

[Nightstalker1993]

I told you I wanted to buy!! Just that budget doesn't permit at the moment. So living with it for now.

Sell the boost controller which you don't seem to need anymore and buy that SPAL before your engine overheats and seizes and 5 figure goes down the drain man. Don't be penny wise pound foolish.

Guys question :

I have found that my IACV is deleted (aftermarket TB and intake manifold), using a Nissan Q35 TB (cable) and a FICD which are obviously all non standard. The TB itself seems to have a funky adjuster screw which moves after a move (possibly when it's hot cuz cold it seems to be tight). Right now my idle when cold is good. When hot it hunts 100-200rpm between 800 to 1000 rpm which annoys the hell outta me.

I plan to Loctite the screw to stop it from moving and maybe swap out the FICD just in case it's faulty. Is there anything else I should look at to resolve this? Tuner earlier said the ECU cannot seem to keep up with it to compensate and suspects the TB is not good.

the original IACV is stepper motor type or a PWM controlled valve? If your idle is hunting even when there is no idle valve, then maybe your ecu settings on idle is funky. Tuning idle isn't as straight forward as it is man, took me bloody long to make my car idle like standard.

 

[Izso]

Sell the boost controller which you don't seem to need anymore and buy that SPAL before your engine overheats and seizes and 5 figure goes down the drain man. Don't be penny wise pound foolish.

the original IACV is stepper motor type or a PWM controlled valve? If your idle is hunting even when there is no idle valve, then maybe your ecu settings on idle is funky. Tuning idle isn't as straight forward as it is man, took me bloody long to make my car idle like standard.

Yeah, gonna do that. Sell and buy. But right now the engine only reached max 96 on stop-go traffic and I switch off the aircon to further reduce it. Btw, I wanna ask - is it more efficient to have one pull fan only rather than one pull and one push? And then remove the oil cooler out of the path and to use those foam to "guide" the air?

IACV is stepper motor type. But it's no longer there so no use. Also I suspect the cams is bothering the tune as well. Biggest issue is this idle issue only comes out when engine is above 80 deg C. Cold there's no hunting. What parameters did you adjust to manage the idle?

 

[vr2turbo]

Have you tried idling speed with air con off and on. FICD is to compensate when air con on...

 

[gunnerzz]

Yeah, gonna do that. Sell and buy. But right now the engine only reached max 96 on stop-go traffic and I switch off the aircon to further reduce it. Btw, I wanna ask - is it more efficient to have one pull fan only rather than one pull and one push? And then remove the oil cooler out of the path and to use those foam to "guide" the air?

IACV is stepper motor type. But it's no longer there so no use. Also I suspect the cams is bothering the tune as well. Biggest issue is this idle issue only comes out when engine is above 80 deg C. Cold there's no hunting. What parameters did you adjust to manage the idle?

IMHO the most important thing is to get the fan supplying 'fresh' air instead of recycled air from the engine bay.

Take my sister humble Kenari for example.I install additional fan infront to push air assuming it will help improve aircond performance during stop and go driving.The result is almost nothing improved. What i did is custom made covers to block any path or opening which allow hot air from the engine bay to be recycled thru the radiator again.Its damn tedious but result is there.

 

[Izso]

Have you tried idling speed with air con off and on. FICD is to compensate when air con on...

It works well without aircon. But hot-start (water temp > 85 deg C) it just dies off shortly after firing up. Takes a few restarts for it to settle down.

IMHO the most important thing is to get the fan supplying 'fresh' air instead of recycled air from the engine bay.

Take my sister humble Kenari for example.I install additional fan infront to push air assuming it will help improve aircond performance during stop and go driving.The result is almost nothing improved. What i did is custom made covers to block any path or opening which allow hot air from the engine bay to be recycled thru the radiator again.Its damn tedious but result is there.

So now your sis' kenari has two fans with proper flow? how do you mean recycled? Got sample?

 

[vr2turbo]

So now your sis' kenari has two fans with proper flow? how do you mean recycled? Got sample?

I think he means the engine bay hot air not escaping out, so sort of recycle thru' radiator again, but I doubt since radiator is up front. Probably no circulation, but yours have raised bonnet already right?

 

[ixeo]

Izso. So what gunnerzz said is in line with what I told you. I don’t think there’s anything wrong with your radiator or fan. Just a single properly working original pull fan, with the radiator shrouded and blocked off from recycled hot air.

It’s funny cause if it’s original shroud and sponges all in place it should work fine.

 

[gunnerzz]

It works well without aircon. But hot-start (water temp > 85 deg C) it just dies off shortly after firing up. Takes a few restarts for it to settle down.



So now your sis' kenari has two fans with proper flow? how do you mean recycled? Got sample?

Previously yes,now already removed the additional pusher fan after installing blocking plate.i dont have the pics.

When car is moving our radiator will get fresh air as air from outside the front bumper is push in by the foward motion of the car itself.The effect is better cooling.U can see this from lesser aircond compressor running time and radiator fan running time.Not sure u will notices this in a car with good sound dampening like yours.

For example on my BLM Campro ( u can google any Campro engine bay picture ), notice there is a gap between the top radiator cover and the metal piece frame where the bonnet latch locked when u close the bonet.There is at least 1 inch gap there all along the rediator length. During stationary, hot air from the engine bay or after being sucked by the radiator fan will find its way back to the front of the radiator hence reduced cooling. The top part is the easy one to solve or fabricate the blocking plate.The left and right are difficult.

The best OE design i saw is on my dad Pajero LO.The radiator is placed in square metal frame and this coupled with the hood rubber seal and no other opening ensure the radiator always gets fresh air and not hot air from the engine bay.

 

[Izso]

I think he means the engine bay hot air not escaping out, so sort of recycle thru' radiator again, but I doubt since radiator is up front. Probably no circulation, but yours have raised bonnet already right?

It's during jams it heats up to 96-100 deg c. So I think there's some sort of recirculation going on there.

Previously yes,now already removed the additional pusher fan after installing blocking plate.i dont have the pics.

When car is moving our radiator will get fresh air as air from outside the front bumper is push in by the foward motion of the car itself.The effect is better cooling.U can see this from lesser aircond compressor running time and radiator fan running time.Not sure u will notices this in a car with good sound dampening like yours.

For example on my BLM Campro ( u can google any Campro engine bay picture ), notice there is a gap between the top radiator cover and the metal piece frame where the bonnet latch locked when u close the bonet.There is at least 1 inch gap there all along the rediator length. During stationary, hot air from the engine bay or after being sucked by the radiator fan will find its way back to the front of the radiator hence reduced cooling. The top part is the easy one to solve or fabricate the blocking plate.The left and right are difficult.

The best OE design i saw is on my dad Pajero LO.The radiator is placed in square metal frame and this coupled with the hood rubber seal and no other opening ensure the radiator always gets fresh air and not hot air from the engine bay.

My bimmer has a top radiator blocking plastic thing already so that's not the issue. Issue is from the sides so will need to think of a way to fabricate some sort of blocking plate for the sides that won't get in the way of my intercooler hoses and relocate the oil cooler in a way it doesn't get in the way of the blocking plate and intercooler hoses.

Izso. So what gunnerzz said is in line with what I told you. I don’t think there’s anything wrong with your radiator or fan. Just a single properly working original pull fan, with the radiator shrouded and blocked off from recycled hot air.

It’s funny cause if it’s original shroud and sponges all in place it should work fine.

My sponges are missing. The shroud together with the main radiator so that works but the recirculating is what I'm thinking about now. I need to find flexible aluminum plates and try to fit some in for my car front without affecting my cars super duper idiotic sensitive wiring.


Latest update : Over the weekend I tried to sponge up the front and do what you guys suggested. But something else failed and my car can't start. Starter is weak, it won't ignite and I cannot figure out (along with 2 other mechanic friends) what is causing the issue. So now it's going to be towed to a friends workshop who does BMW-JZ conversions with their eyes closed for further troubleshooting.

- Found melted relays controlling the fan (who connects two high powered fans to one relay!?!?)
- Starter drawing too much current until the whole car is struggling to start
- After jump starting it won't stay idle
- There's a huge puddle of black oil leaking from one of the braided oil cooler lines

Seriously contemplating stripping the car for parts and going with a stock 1JZ auto engine. Apparently the R154 manual 5 speed is a gold mine and my HKS cams are sellable. Aftermarket intake manifold and stand alone ECU can go and after I sell all that it can fund a stock standard 1jz auto.

But having spoken to a lot of friends including nightstalker I've spent too much time and $ to back out now. Let's see how this progresses. For all I know ZTH may never get to see the end product. Sigh.