EG clubs/owner etc

peterj

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Actually b20 block shorter by about 0.55mm from b18c block. It should be no problem at all.
For the oil sump, b16a and b20b oil sump basically the same.

Currently running homemade b20vtec few time reach 9.2k rpm and mostly 8.8k rpm
mean b18c should be 101% fit right?

madman: sorry bro, now budget constraining, just changed to new set T1R cost me round 1.4k (asked re002 in bridgestone shop they say need order,nid wait while i already bring my new set of rim in my car,and the old rim i used that fitted with 7 years plus sime tyres already kembang and crack...... ask r1r, dun have.. kumho more rare again...... no wonder my fren all early early pos the tyres from semenanjung:banghead: here really kampung:adore::banghead:) and new distributor since the halfcut i get is rosak already, now just feel the true vtec sound, previously even silent then a mivec.....:banghead: next thing gonna get the the hardrace front and rear adjustable chamber arm...... new tyres, dun wan make it suffer much...:smokin:
 

peterj

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headache, cause realise that ek9 lsd not pnp to b16a y21 gearbox:banghead: nid get the ek9 final drive also
 

mADmAN

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eh its not???

tried checking B18C-R LSD? then mebbe can get the 4.7 final drive one shot... best overall combo for B16A imho
 

virqai

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headache, cause realise that ek9 lsd not pnp to b16a y21 gearbox:banghead: nid get the ek9 final drive also
aiks...why cannot..?if g.box housing is non lsd and Fd 10 screw,i tot its need to trim some tulang2 only at casing,then ok...hemm:hmmmm:
 

shiroitenshi

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Apr 18, 2006
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EK9 LSD bolt holes not the same as Y21 Final drive's one. Hence he also needs the EK9/DC2R FD. not sure if s80 GSR gearbox FD boltholes are the same, I think so, but not really sure.
 

Civic eh5

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Jan 30, 2012
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salam to all,
im civic eg9 owner 1995(ckd),. i plan to convert my d16 auto engine to b18c type r from 1998 integra.. and this shop give me a quotation price rm15400.. the engine conversion include type r complete piping+ekzos with 5knuckles plus rim16 rim type r...is it ok this price? sifu or anybody can give any idea to me before i put my money on table..tq
 

shiroitenshi

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Apr 18, 2006
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salam to all,
im civic eg9 owner 1995(ckd),. i plan to convert my d16 auto engine to b18c type r from 1998 integra.. and this shop give me a quotation price rm15400.. the engine conversion include type r complete piping+ekzos with 5knuckles plus rim16 rim type r...is it ok this price? sifu or anybody can give any idea to me before i put my money on table..tq
Save some more and go K series?
 

mADmAN

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price is good for wat he giving u... especially if inclusive of registration... but K series can get a full conversion for about 20-25k inclusive hidden cost... only thing is..brakes n wheels dunno included or not
 

shiroitenshi

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price is good for wat he giving u... especially if inclusive of registration... but K series can get a full conversion for about 20-25k inclusive hidden cost... only thing is..brakes n wheels dunno included or not
nope, no brakes, but BB prelude disc/caliper conversion is just 1K (around there) away.
 

MiNiFans

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Aug 3, 2009
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I did ask about K series into EG...cost around 2xk,but was thinking B16A head + B20B block,dont know which build to go =(
Going to convert my D16A6 engine beginning of next year

Conversation price B16A- RM8k++ , then B20B add another 4k++

Headache,sometimes I feel it...is it worth to spend so much,is it still worth to convert? but 1 thing I have to say,my EG is not going to sell off,it stays with us for 20years....is a hard thing to let go,but current engine really giving a lot of weird sound and engine become weaker and weaker...

I still need to spend a lot more on it,a lot of parts never been replace for last 20years
1) Aircon bearing
2) Radiator rusting
3) Rear drum brake giving weird sound
4) Exhaust bocor
5) Nozzle wiper no more working and some small minor problem
6) Sometimes Clutch footstep doesnt back to position...quite danger ><


Current engine RM0.28/km....does anyone know what is the fuel comsumption for B16+B20 build and K20ar?
 
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shiroitenshi

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Apr 18, 2006
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I did ask about K series into EG...cost around 2xk,but was thinking B16A head + B20B block,dont know which build to go =(
Going to convert my D16A6 engine beginning of next year

Conversation price B16A- RM8k++ , then B20B add another 4k++

Headache,sometimes I feel it...is it worth to spend so much,is it still worth to convert? but 1 thing I have to say,my EG is not going to sell off,it stays with us for 20years....is a hard thing to let go,but current engine really giving a lot of weird sound and engine become weaker and weaker...

I still need to spend a lot more on it,a lot of parts never been replace for last 20years
1) Aircon bearing
2) Radiator rusting
3) Rear drum brake giving weird sound
4) Exhaust bocor
5) Nozzle wiper no more working and some small minor problem
6) Sometimes Clutch footstep doesnt back to position...quite danger ><


Current engine RM0.28/km....does anyone know what is the fuel comsumption for B16+B20 build and K20ar?
Woah, lots of repair incoming there. Mine also 20years already, EH2, born same day as I did when it rolled of the factory (hence the reason I keep it).

Still running strong, but I replaced everything. The only part I think remained is the chassis. Total I poured probably nearly 80K or, but that's for almost 20 years of use, and include 2 engine replacement... considering TCO, still cheaper than other cars. LOL.

If not going to sell off, then restore it properly. If the price is too steep for you, then just go B16A for now, and the remainder, replace all the rubber bits. Total I spend on the windows alone and their rubber seals is near 2K+ last time. (all four doors, front and rear windshield) The underchassis bushings and stuff also add up. Frankly I think it's going to kill you if you put a powerful engine in and neglect fixing all your rubber bushings and bits.

A powerful car with leaky windows and dodgy handling is not a car you'd want to keep. < THIS

Do remember that doing this doesn't increase your resale value, so if you are planning to sell it down the road, then no point doing the above. For me, I spent because I plan to keep it until the car falls apart from rust.

---------- Post added at 03:07 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 03:00 AM ----------

All the problems u mentioned are small problems and inexpensive to fix. Fuel consumption for my b20b is quite saving if i use ron95. Keeping rev below 3k rpm is key for fuel saving. I turn on vtec, don't even think 'about fc, lol.

Breakdown of price (estimated from my experience fixing mine, these are from various years, so can't be sure that the price is still like that.)
1) Aircon bearing
I replaced mine, less than RM100.
2) Radiator rusting
Plastic third party dual layer radiator (looks like OEM, but isn't) RM300 or so, single layer is cheaper, but not by much if new. Second hand the fins mostly bent or possibly leaking.
3) Rear drum brake giving weird sound
Drum brake hydraulic actuators cost less than RM200. (when I had drum brakes.. ah, the good old days)
4) Exhaust bocor. Welding is 10-100++bucks (depending on how good is the welder, what method of welding)
5) Nozzle wiper no more working and some small minor problem
Nozzle wiper, just buy from chop shop. If regular, they usually give you FOC. I got mine FOC.
6) Sometimes Clutch footstep doesnt back to position...quite danger ><
That's sounds like clutch pump already leaked/spoilt. Replace. Halfcut place is cheaper. New is sub RM200, I think. I've only replaced mine once maybe 3-4 years ago.
 
Last edited:

mADmAN

Senior Member
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Aug 5, 2004
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i think if ur changing the engine mainly coz its giving problems and if ur not seriously after power... then theres no need for the K20...

instead of the B20 hybrid.. why not look into B18C GSR. my mechanic in sri muda told me his package is 9.5k siap pasang... but dunno wats included la... but at least u get the torque of a 1.8 instead of the torqueless B16.

another option if ur not after power would be a simple B20B halfcut..non hybrid/non VTEC.. as in direct plonk in.. then u get the 2.0 torque.

i would go the GSR route and jalan...easy... best all rounder compromise imho... good power.. good torque.. not too expensive..

the balance money u have for the mods.. restore/repair all the stuff thats needed in ur car.
 

pwhyze

500 RPM
Senior Member
Mar 1, 2011
924
356
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Woah, lots of repair incoming there. Mine also 20years already, EH2, born same day as I did when it rolled of the factory (hence the reason I keep it).

Still running strong, but I replaced everything. The only part I think remained is the chassis. Total I poured probably nearly 80K or, but that's for almost 20 years of use, and include 2 engine replacement... considering TCO, still cheaper than other cars. LOL.

If not going to sell off, then restore it properly. If the price is too steep for you, then just go B16A for now, and the remainder, replace all the rubber bits. Total I spend on the windows alone and their rubber seals is near 2K+ last time. (all four doors, front and rear windshield) The underchassis bushings and stuff also add up. Frankly I think it's going to kill you if you put a powerful engine in and neglect fixing all your rubber bushings and bits.

A powerful car with leaky windows and dodgy handling is not a car you'd want to keep. < THIS

Do remember that doing this doesn't increase your resale value, so if you are planning to sell it down the road, then no point doing the above. For me, I spent because I plan to keep it until the car falls apart from rust.

---------- Post added at 03:07 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 03:00 AM ----------

All the problems u mentioned are small problems and inexpensive to fix. Fuel consumption for my b20b is quite saving if i use ron95. Keeping rev below 3k rpm is key for fuel saving. I turn on vtec, don't even think 'about fc, lol.

Breakdown of price (estimated from my experience fixing mine, these are from various years, so can't be sure that the price is still like that.)
1) Aircon bearing
I replaced mine, less than RM100.
2) Radiator rusting
Plastic third party dual layer radiator (looks like OEM, but isn't) RM300 or so, single layer is cheaper, but not by much if new. Second hand the fins mostly bent or possibly leaking.
3) Rear drum brake giving weird sound
Drum brake hydraulic actuators cost less than RM200. (when I had drum brakes.. ah, the good old days)
4) Exhaust bocor. Welding is 10-100++bucks (depending on how good is the welder, what method of welding)
5) Nozzle wiper no more working and some small minor problem
Nozzle wiper, just buy from chop shop. If regular, they usually give you FOC. I got mine FOC.
6) Sometimes Clutch footstep doesnt back to position...quite danger ><
That's sounds like clutch pump already leaked/spoilt. Replace. Halfcut place is cheaper. New is sub RM200, I think. I've only replaced mine once maybe 3-4 years ago.
Just wondering...the rubber seals for the windows, did you get them brand new?
 

peterj

1,000 RPM
Senior Member
Apr 27, 2010
1,321
258
1,683
Kuching
i think if ur changing the engine mainly coz its giving problems and if ur not seriously after power... then theres no need for the K20...

instead of the B20 hybrid.. why not look into B18C GSR. my mechanic in sri muda told me his package is 9.5k siap pasang... but dunno wats included la... but at least u get the torque of a 1.8 instead of the torqueless B16.

another option if ur not after power would be a simple B20B halfcut..non hybrid/non VTEC.. as in direct plonk in.. then u get the 2.0 torque.

i would go the GSR route and jalan...easy... best all rounder compromise imho... good power.. good torque.. not too expensive..

the balance money u have for the mods.. restore/repair all the stuff thats needed in ur car.
that phrase sometimes does hurt us b16a users.. but when talk a bout talk, i remembered one of ur pic u put.....then i transform my car :love:... then now u know why when u tell me 4.785, i silent silent:love:
 

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shiroitenshi

3,000 RPM
Senior Member
Apr 18, 2006
3,676
170
1,663
Just wondering...the rubber seals for the windows, did you get them brand new?
Well, of course I got new ones? All from halfcut newest is from 95 models, and how long ago is that?

Now my power windows move up smoothly like it's a new car. Not sure it's worth the 200+ pricetag of the rubber run-channels though.
 

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