Coil-On-Plug(Non CDI, PNP type)

[PabloIceman]

for Okada Plasmas, it does not work with standalone ECU. that's what i heard.
just in case if u change to standalone in future.

err, i am running on Okadas and also on Standalone ECU ...

 

[H22-C]

err, i am running on Okadas and also on Standalone ECU ...

thx for the clarification. btw, what ECU r u using ?

 

[PabloIceman]

thx for the clarification. btw, what ECU r u using ?

Previously on Power FC D-Jetro. Now on LINK G4

 

[pangyau]

Update,

Tested with other stock coil/plugs/cable plugs from a friend.
Still having problem during WOT or at RPM 7k.
Exhaust produce popping sound around & small black smoke for around 2-3 seconds.
Sounds like miss firing...

Please advice me what other thing to do.

 

[ahloy74]

bro,

You said i/cooler piping already checked and changed. Did you do boost leak check?
I also having the problem like the car jerking when you crusing suddenly you want to accelerate.
After doing the boost leak check, i ended up changing 2 i/cooler hoses and several clamps.
Now it improves alot with boost 1.3 bar. With 1.5 bar suddenly accelerate, still got this kind of jerking but not much.

 

[pangyau]

ahloy74,

After changing the I/C piping (3inch) resulting the fuel kinda rich.
The cosumption seems high getting less then 350km on full tank (no blasting)
While on stock I/C piping I manage to get around 350-370km...
The piping been checked... all OK

Things I might need to do/check:-
1- Re-tuning
2- Checking the fuel pump... need more fuel...Maybe

After all, the problem happened since the car in super stock condition (same until now).
Will update later... now just drive slow2 only...

 

[H22-C]

pangyau, i also had the same problem like yours, that time my evo8mr was "super stock" condition except decat and rear exhaust.
i brought my car to dyno, it was running too rich at high rpm, at 1.3~1.4 bar, too rich so it could not burn.

you can bring your car to dyno, and see the AF in the dyno chart.

u can do reflash, it should solve your problem.

---------- Post added at 08:59 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:56 AM ----------

H22-C,
Any review could you share about the unit?
Just PNP & remove the existing coil?... How about the wiring/socket?
Saw a few E owners at my place, their Okada burn due to few reasons.
As the unit is expensive, so I need to be careful on choosing.

Standalone for stock ride...? some said is wasted modded to me...
As the ECU are expensive...

yes, 100% PNP. no need to worry about wiring/socket.

i m using stock ECU, it makes difference. never regret. worth it.

 

[dawg]

I replaced plugs and had an ECUFlash and the problem doesn't exist any more.
Maybe you can check on the following areas.

1) Spark plugs, correct gap
2) O2 Sensor condition (mine works, but the reading was off)
3) Throttle body
4) ECUFlash or any ELM327 bluetooth + torque app or Dashcommand to read your ECU for faulty codes.

I didnt need to change plug cables at all, and I suspect it could be due to the throttle body and O2 not working well, so the car doesnt enter close/open look properly hence the high rich fuel injection at high rpm (always seems to be around 5k rpm for me)

My O2 sensor is not in good condition so the mechanic recommended to run full time open loop if I didn't want to fork out $ for a new O2. and full time open loop has it own advantages as well. Previously I can only hit around 350km - 380km per tank, and with the new servicing + tuning, I am able to get 420km (red light appears) - 450km (empty) (light foot 50:50 city/highway driving). I'm still monitoring my fuel consumption to feedback to the mech so that he can adjust his tuning once I get on a dyno.