My Snail Rebuild Integra DB8
- Thread starter ddv_nk12
- Start date
Thinking of RPF1 or J speed now. Hoping to get a buyer for my rims. Hehe.
Serviced my car yesterday. Trying out a new oil. Changed some things. More info later. Too tired to post now.
Oh ya!! Tested my car top speed already but still not satisfied. Conditions were not safe to push the car to the max.
Serviced my car yesterday. Trying out a new oil. Changed some things. More info later. Too tired to post now.
Oh ya!! Tested my car top speed already but still not satisfied. Conditions were not safe to push the car to the max.
My valve head rubber gasket gave way. I guess over time, the rubber hardened and oil leaked out.
At first, I thought it was the valve cover washers and screws that gave away because the leaks were only there. But upon further checking, that was not the problem.
So, what I did was to change all valve head rubber gasket, spark park well gaskets (again since it came together in a set) and the screws and washers (if that is what it is called) to the Type R ones.
According to my mechanic, the normal B16 screws are black and Type R ones are galvanised. I didn't know that. So, whatever it is decided to change them anyway.
Also, I needed to service my car. So, did that as well. Previously, I was using Amsoil Fully Synthetic. It was good for maybe the first 4000-5000 km. Then, it felt sluggish. So, at nearly 7000 km I decided to service my car. No fun driving it already.
This time I will be trying out Motul Turbolight 4100. It's semi synthetic I guess. I would have preferred fully synthetic but my mechanic only had this and Amsoil fully synthetic. I didn't want that. Let's hope Motul lives up to its expectation.
It has been a week now since I changed the engine oil. I find that it revs easier than before. Haven't really tried driving hard. Let you know later on.
Hoping to hit the tracks some time in April. Waiting for friends to join me.
The last time I opened my valve head cover, Izso said that there was a lot of varnish due to either extended the OCI too long or because of poorly broken oil.
Previously with Honda semi sythetic engine oil
This time with Amsoil fully synthetic
Iszo, waiting for you to see the difference. Is it any better this time? Worse? Same? I'm no expert in this. Others please comment on it as well.
I finally remembered to snap a pic of the Pivot Speedmeter V. Haha.
Dangerous act of trying to snap the pic while driving fast....
only to find out that it was not clear. Aihh.
Luckily it had this thing that could record the top speed driven from the time you start the car till you turn off the car in its memory. Once you turn off the car, the memory will be erased automatically. Is Apexi RSM the same?
Here is the pic of the Speedmeter displaying the top speed for my car.
Hope to touch 200km/h or more next time. Just need to make sure it's safe to do that. Haha.
Guess that's it for now. Until don't know when.... for the next update. After my wedding maybe.. Haha.
At first, I thought it was the valve cover washers and screws that gave away because the leaks were only there. But upon further checking, that was not the problem.
So, what I did was to change all valve head rubber gasket, spark park well gaskets (again since it came together in a set) and the screws and washers (if that is what it is called) to the Type R ones.
According to my mechanic, the normal B16 screws are black and Type R ones are galvanised. I didn't know that. So, whatever it is decided to change them anyway.
Also, I needed to service my car. So, did that as well. Previously, I was using Amsoil Fully Synthetic. It was good for maybe the first 4000-5000 km. Then, it felt sluggish. So, at nearly 7000 km I decided to service my car. No fun driving it already.
This time I will be trying out Motul Turbolight 4100. It's semi synthetic I guess. I would have preferred fully synthetic but my mechanic only had this and Amsoil fully synthetic. I didn't want that. Let's hope Motul lives up to its expectation.
It has been a week now since I changed the engine oil. I find that it revs easier than before. Haven't really tried driving hard. Let you know later on.
Hoping to hit the tracks some time in April. Waiting for friends to join me.
The last time I opened my valve head cover, Izso said that there was a lot of varnish due to either extended the OCI too long or because of poorly broken oil.
Previously with Honda semi sythetic engine oil
This time with Amsoil fully synthetic
Iszo, waiting for you to see the difference. Is it any better this time? Worse? Same? I'm no expert in this. Others please comment on it as well.
I finally remembered to snap a pic of the Pivot Speedmeter V. Haha.
Dangerous act of trying to snap the pic while driving fast....
only to find out that it was not clear. Aihh.
Luckily it had this thing that could record the top speed driven from the time you start the car till you turn off the car in its memory. Once you turn off the car, the memory will be erased automatically. Is Apexi RSM the same?
Here is the pic of the Speedmeter displaying the top speed for my car.
Hope to touch 200km/h or more next time. Just need to make sure it's safe to do that. Haha.
Guess that's it for now. Until don't know when.... for the next update. After my wedding maybe.. Haha.
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Yesterday, I visited my mechanic. He confirmed it was the Lost Motion Assembly (LMA) or commonly known as hydraulic lifters are the cause of that sound. So, I told him I wanted to get those changed.
He gave me the option to choose which type I want to use.
1) Use back the original B series LMA.
2) Go for aftermarket LMA, same function but different design.
Option 1, I can choose brand new or used B18C Type R LMA. These are really out of my budget. It is about RM100+ per piece and there are 8 pieces. It will come close to RM1000 with workmanship. However, used B18C Type R LMA for 8 pieces including workmanship will cost me 3 times cheaper.
Option 2, using aftermarket LMA. It seems the design is something like H22A lifters. Looks like a spring. I didn't see that as my mechanic didn't have any sample. This is RM45 per piece brand new. It's slightly more expensive than the used B18CR LMA but very much cheaper than the brand new B18CR LMA.
Decision time.. I don't know how to decide. Then, he told me that some of his customers are using the aftermarket LMA, so far no problem. But just his opinion, it seems the aftermarket LMA design looks to be weak. Not strong. It may cause them to break easily if I understood what he meant exactly. My mechanic and I have trouble to communicate, you see. Then, I asked about the used B18CR LMA knowing that the new ones are out of my reach. I asked whether used ones can last. He said he usually uses used ones only and no problems so far. Same answer??? Then, I looked at him for a while. He laughed and said don't worry. Just use the used ones.
Ok la. now that my mechanic has helped me to choose, he showed me the used LMA he has and asked to check. When you press the lifters, it is supposed to come up instantly, easily with any noise. He then showed me a faulty lifter. When I pressed this, it came up but with a "tak" sound and it wasn't smooth. Now, I know how to know why LMA makes noise. Haha.
So, he began to work on my car. I went for a drink. I came back and the head valve cover has already been pulled out.
He pointed at this and told me that the lifters are there.
I thought to myself. This will be quick. Just remove the camshaft and all those things there and can be done within 2 hours. But after a while, he was not working on my car. I waited. After about 20 minutes, he still didn't do anything. I asked him why. He said the engine needs to cool down first. Too hot to handle.
Ok la. So, I waited. An Evolution MR came. Snapped the pic of his disc brakes.
Damn big brakes. Almost the size of my rims.
This is the used B18CR Lost Motion Assembly/ Hydraulic lifters kept in a plastic container soaked in oil
Labelling your parts is very important
After an hour, the engine was cold and he started work again.
Camshaft taken out for the first time. I was hoping it was at least a Type R cam.
Stock cam pulley
Unfortunately, it is not a Type R cam. My mechanic told me that it's the B18 Black Top cam. From which car is it? Anyone?
You see that? That is the LMA that needs to be changed. Honestly, I didn't know that so many things need to be pulled out to change these.
Such a small thing and yet can really cause an irritating, intolerable sound.
Is this the valve spring?
More parts were taken out but I don't know what they are.
Anyway, here are the pics.
These parts here, have to be taken one one piece at a time. There will be a rod holding them. You need to push the rod a little to take a piece. Then, push it further to take the next piece.
LMA is out
Here they are in another container
By this time, I was hungry. So, I went out for lunch. Couldn't snap any pics. When I came back, it was ready.
Part 2 coming shortly.
---------- Post added at 12:02 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:35 AM ----------
When I came back, my mechanic was nice enough to wash my engine bay.
Upon further checking, I noticed he did not fix back the cover. The one which covers the cam pulley and timing belt.
Is it ok to leave it open like that? Most of the cars in his workshop are the same.
Then, the moment of truth. Started the car. No more noise. What a relief... Went for a test drive. Engine was quiet. Was really happy. I noticed my speedometer was not working. I thought to myself. One ok, another problem arises. DAMN!!!
Went back to the workshop and told my mechanic about it. He said maybe water went in the speed sensor. So, he blew dry and tried a few times. Still the same. In the end, he changed it for me. Best part, he didn't even charge me for that.
I went home as a happy customer.
Now, is it really ok not to cover that cam pulley? What are the pro's and con's of leaving it open? I still have the cover with me. Can water go in if it rains or when I was the engine bay? What about stones or anything like that?
My mechanic also told me to change my cam pulley next. So, it will look nice. Any brands that I should go for? Suggestions please.
He gave me the option to choose which type I want to use.
1) Use back the original B series LMA.
2) Go for aftermarket LMA, same function but different design.
Option 1, I can choose brand new or used B18C Type R LMA. These are really out of my budget. It is about RM100+ per piece and there are 8 pieces. It will come close to RM1000 with workmanship. However, used B18C Type R LMA for 8 pieces including workmanship will cost me 3 times cheaper.
Option 2, using aftermarket LMA. It seems the design is something like H22A lifters. Looks like a spring. I didn't see that as my mechanic didn't have any sample. This is RM45 per piece brand new. It's slightly more expensive than the used B18CR LMA but very much cheaper than the brand new B18CR LMA.
Decision time.. I don't know how to decide. Then, he told me that some of his customers are using the aftermarket LMA, so far no problem. But just his opinion, it seems the aftermarket LMA design looks to be weak. Not strong. It may cause them to break easily if I understood what he meant exactly. My mechanic and I have trouble to communicate, you see. Then, I asked about the used B18CR LMA knowing that the new ones are out of my reach. I asked whether used ones can last. He said he usually uses used ones only and no problems so far. Same answer??? Then, I looked at him for a while. He laughed and said don't worry. Just use the used ones.
Ok la. now that my mechanic has helped me to choose, he showed me the used LMA he has and asked to check. When you press the lifters, it is supposed to come up instantly, easily with any noise. He then showed me a faulty lifter. When I pressed this, it came up but with a "tak" sound and it wasn't smooth. Now, I know how to know why LMA makes noise. Haha.
So, he began to work on my car. I went for a drink. I came back and the head valve cover has already been pulled out.
He pointed at this and told me that the lifters are there.
I thought to myself. This will be quick. Just remove the camshaft and all those things there and can be done within 2 hours. But after a while, he was not working on my car. I waited. After about 20 minutes, he still didn't do anything. I asked him why. He said the engine needs to cool down first. Too hot to handle.
Ok la. So, I waited. An Evolution MR came. Snapped the pic of his disc brakes.
Damn big brakes. Almost the size of my rims.
This is the used B18CR Lost Motion Assembly/ Hydraulic lifters kept in a plastic container soaked in oil
Labelling your parts is very important
After an hour, the engine was cold and he started work again.
Camshaft taken out for the first time. I was hoping it was at least a Type R cam.
Stock cam pulley
Unfortunately, it is not a Type R cam. My mechanic told me that it's the B18 Black Top cam. From which car is it? Anyone?
You see that? That is the LMA that needs to be changed. Honestly, I didn't know that so many things need to be pulled out to change these.
Such a small thing and yet can really cause an irritating, intolerable sound.
Is this the valve spring?
More parts were taken out but I don't know what they are.
Anyway, here are the pics.
These parts here, have to be taken one one piece at a time. There will be a rod holding them. You need to push the rod a little to take a piece. Then, push it further to take the next piece.
LMA is out
Here they are in another container
By this time, I was hungry. So, I went out for lunch. Couldn't snap any pics. When I came back, it was ready.
Part 2 coming shortly.
---------- Post added at 12:02 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:35 AM ----------
When I came back, my mechanic was nice enough to wash my engine bay.
Upon further checking, I noticed he did not fix back the cover. The one which covers the cam pulley and timing belt.
Is it ok to leave it open like that? Most of the cars in his workshop are the same.
Then, the moment of truth. Started the car. No more noise. What a relief... Went for a test drive. Engine was quiet. Was really happy. I noticed my speedometer was not working. I thought to myself. One ok, another problem arises. DAMN!!!
Went back to the workshop and told my mechanic about it. He said maybe water went in the speed sensor. So, he blew dry and tried a few times. Still the same. In the end, he changed it for me. Best part, he didn't even charge me for that.
I went home as a happy customer.
Now, is it really ok not to cover that cam pulley? What are the pro's and con's of leaving it open? I still have the cover with me. Can water go in if it rains or when I was the engine bay? What about stones or anything like that?
My mechanic also told me to change my cam pulley next. So, it will look nice. Any brands that I should go for? Suggestions please.
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Ling Reiden
From Facebook
hmm from what i know is...since your mech not having back the below cover is easier for them or you to check on timing belt next time and let it cold down faster.....some even remove the upper cover *joint together with the valve cover 1* for them easy to change timing belt without removing the cover and replace gasket ....hopes it helps bro .
BTW bro...mind telling me where you spray your head to powder type coating...wanna spray like yours too
BTW bro...mind telling me where you spray your head to powder type coating...wanna spray like yours too
Ling: look for this fella
http://www.zerotohundred.com/newfor...351732-powder-coating-coated-by-dynatech.html
Ling Reiden
From Facebook
Ling Reiden
From Facebook
Thanks for the info bro.
When I bought my car, it was already sprayed but I don't think so it's powder coated. Mine also needs a to be powder coated but guess it can wait. No hurry.
Okay. I'm also worried to drive around without the cover. Just pray hard nothing happens.
Need an opinion. What do you think? Is it okay to respray an original rim with original colour to a different colour?
Vote please based only on the rim colour. Which looks better?
Do you prefer this:
#1 - My car with my white rims
Or do you prefer this:
#2 - Another DB from the Internet with the same gold rims
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