ZTH KuChiNG zone

[alphangadan]

Series: Drag is fun alright... the adrenaline rush when you feel a 250hp - 400hp motor. The g-force is awesome... You feel like you're force back/stuck to your seat when you accelerate from 0 - 180km/h in a quarter mile. But for rwd cars, there's that advantage that you get when you wanna burn and waste tyres...

 

[series5401]

alphangadan: bro, yea best.. but no gforce in my car la bro.. just like to play arround and rev high.. eheheheee.. for drag what car do u prefer?/ ehehehe..

 

[alphangadan]

I have been with 4agte - AR60 turbo boosting 1.5bar... The gforce is awesome.

So far I would say 4 wheel setup is the best if it's boosted >1.5bar... You really can feel the G's.... Next would be rwd setup. The push factor from your rear wheel makes the front bonet lifted. If VTEC are rwds or rear engine (there was one ek in Indonesia who placed the engine at the bonnet - turbo channel), the push factor would be awesome too.....

 

[tofu_manic]

Tofu: I need your advise. Are you familiar with HKS F Con? Compare to tuning my SR20DET with say M7? HKS F Con/M7?

Not really. Wud be p.it.a. to find a tuner with all software/tools/knowledge to tune that one. Orca from this forum is selling one unit f-con IS i think.

M7 / emanage blue is good bang for buck. Has essential features that we need. Better than Neo. Used it for about 2 years, no issues. Just that i had a weird rpm 'stumble' during idling that happens like once a week, never really managed to figure out what caused it. But didnt bother me hehe

alphangadan: morning bro.. ic, drifting is interesting.. bcoz of the technique needed to take the corner.. but, now still loving drag.. just know how to shift gear la bro.. ehehe..

hehe when u get bitten by the drift bug....susah bro...lol

 

[series5401]

alphangadan: vtec rear engine?/ but bro, if rear wheel, wont is swirl to the left and to the right.. i saw a celica with 2jz i think, cant drag la bro..

tofu: bro, will play drifting when u bring me abroad in your s15 and teach me to drift.. eheheheee.. yesterday, just got back from stadium.. try to play hard with the little machine.. ehehehe.. then met u on the road from stadium, i though ur back from stadium drifting la bro.. ehehehe..

 

[alphangadan]

Tofu: Thanks bro. In that case I'll buy the M7 as the emanage blue has fake in the market. And totally agree with you Tofu. Drifting gets you hooked like dope... hehehehehe

Series: That's the typical problem with old school rear wheel drive cars. But quite a number of dragsters found the solution already le... hehehehe those Bong - motul (KE70 powered SR20det) with slick tyres... almost perfect lacunhing. Peng Electrical 400hp 4agte - perfect launching not forgeting Ah Siang - rwd toyota starlet, 3sgte - perfect launching. You need to have lsd axles, your rear suspension must be stable/stiff and the most important element are your bushings. Rear axle bushings that connect to your panhard rods, long arm and short arms. With those bushings, you can drifit easily. If the car rear wheel goes bouncing, you can't drift what more to drag. You need to have real drifting/drag bushings. Super pro or the likes from Australia. They are rigid but stiff bushing. Value for money hehehehehehehe...... bought the bushings from one of those pro sellers here. Look for SP Tuning... He knows best.

 

[on_saja82]

hi guys..long time no surfing this website.to all sifu's hi again from me..im newbie here.. =)

 

[Jac83]

Tofu & alpha: Guys, what type of meter/gauge is compulsory to have for a turbocharge ride other than boost meter? Any idea? For low boost. Any good meter/gauges to intro? Thinking of going for nrg brand.

 

[peterj]

if going for nrg, get fuel pressure,oil temp and oil press since oil and fuel are critical for turboed car......

 

[rex79gt]

boost, ext temp, air/fuel meter
if u wan i stil hav stock for autogauge which i use the same series in my car as well n working fine

---------- Post added at 11:24 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:22 PM ----------

mind if i say, nrg is only a so called US branded yet its same factory wif autogauge which comes with pre set warning n non adjustable

 

[Jac83]

Thanks for the feedback Peter n Rex. I'll consider adding an oil pressure, temperature and an afr gauge.

Rex: fill me in with the details, items new? Price for the above mentioned gauges?

 

[tofu_manic]

i agree with the others, those are important things to monitor

though id like to add that first few gauges id get is boost, water temp, oil pressure, fuel pressure then air fuel ratio (make sure it is wideband, like those from innovate, plx, but costs around rm8xx....those cheaper narrowband from autometer/autogauge/nrg etc.etc. are not so accurate)...and in the order above

id get water temp after boost bkos id wanna monitor my temp levels (which will definitely change) esp. after adding more power = heat...stock temp gauge wont cut it...my stock temp gauge barely moves..but blitz gauge showed 100 degrees celcius...mebbe now u whack it kaw kaw temp go up a bit...but with the turbo u whack it a coupla times the temp may go up a bit more

just my opinion, but i feel if u have water temp then oil temp will be nice to have but not essential bkos if water overheats...safe to assume oil temp is high too..i think its unusual to have cool water but hot oil and vice versa

 

[alphangadan]

Tofu: Great explaination... Boost gauge and air fuel ratio is a must for serious mods... By the way the cheapest I found innovate wideband is RM990. Do you know where I can get cheaper - for the complete set?

Currently I rely on Ah Yong's wideband to determine my af ratio.

 

[tofu_manic]

http://www.zerotohundred.com/newfor...nce/378430-innovate-products-mtx-and-lm2.html, seems to be a reputable seller, with big taikor Blackhowling having bought from him too

 

[rex79gt]

jac, ugpm

for A/F ratio, wideband sure better than narrow band which directly get the info from o2 sensor
for wideband, the o2 sensor has its life spam like 500hr? not sure bout this tho

boost: to monitor yr intake pressure, the air flow stability, prevent overboost by monitoring
ext temp: engine kaboom(blown) o not depends on this info, u wont wan yr engine to stay 500'c during idling o over 1000'c when boosting
a/f: more fuel > more carbon > less power > lower temp
less fuel > less carbon > more power?(not sure bout this) > higher temp
oil temp: like tofuman said, more power > heat, the higher temp for yr oil temp, it actually cooks yr oil which u decrease the life spam of yr oil(assuming there is life for oil, who knows?), additional oil cooler can lower yr temp, increase yr oil's durability, bad thing is, some claim additional oil cooler can lower yr oil pressure
oil press: leave to the pros to explain as i'm not too sure bout this