Installing an Active Electronic Crossover.

Yong_5290

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ice cube..throw away ur passive...u not onli can run active...u can now run ur system FULLY active...got band pass...

ohh...unker soong dun need RTA..nvm loh...next time tune 4 me yah...i SPL 1 wor...heheehe :D
 

edgar_raphael

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Originally posted by pisces@Mar 1 2005, 23:53
Icecube, yes, your crossover can run the system FULL ACTIVE and do away with the passives.
Note that under your MID, there are a LPF and HPF for the mids.
LPF + HPF for the mids=bandpass.

Hahahahaha!! mnkh, you really understand me!!! :lol: :lol:
So basically the bandpass is actually frequencies between the low pass cut and the high pass cut ? If correct, then now i know how this basically works.
 

Yong_5290

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yup...band pass is the midrange freq 4 ur 6.5" mid...
so is inbetween lowpass n highpass...
 

normality78

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Originally posted by icecube@Mar 1 2005, 02:12
The other guy at the assesories shop told me if i want to install the electronic crossover, i am actually installing an "amplifier crossover" thus the passive crossover is still need as that is a "speaker crossover" ........

wahh... this installer u better aviod kao kao la....

i even met 1 installer, he said my tweets spoilt liao coz canot hear vocal coming out frm tweets, all went to centre. whahahahaah
 

icecube

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Originally posted by Yong_5290@Mar 2 2005, 02:10
ice cube..throw away ur passive...u not onli can run active...u can now run ur system FULLY active...got band pass...

oh thanks mr.yong.. will put aside the passive crossover and go FULLY active.

Just thinking that the caliber 1600w 4ch is way too powerful for just the 6.5" and tweeter....
 

normality78

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icecube,

u check the amp. im very sure it mention it said MAX 1600w x 4. not norminal power. whahaha. so expect only 1/3 of the power is only real and that still have to divide by 4
 

icecube

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Originally posted by normality78@Mar 3 2005, 00:05
icecube,

u check the amp. im very sure it mention it said MAX 1600w x 4. not norminal power. whahaha. so expect only 1/3 of the power is only real and that still have to divide by 4
ya i think its around 200rms perchannel maybe..coz i blast my b52 (ori one mind u) and cant turn the gain to full becoz the sound start to crack already and i cannot bear the bass already......... LOL.... [btw,i bridge the 2 channel to whack the sub]
 

pisces

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Originally posted by icecube+Mar 2 2005, 23:23 --></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (icecube @ Mar 2 2005, 23:23 )</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> <!--QuoteBegin-Yong_5290@Mar 2 2005, 02:10
ice cube..throw away ur passive...u not onli can run active...u can now run ur system FULLY active...got band pass...

oh thanks mr.yong.. will put aside the passive crossover and go FULLY active.

Just thinking that the caliber 1600w 4ch is way too powerful for just the 6.5" and tweeter.... [/b][/quote]
No worries!!
I think that Caliber amp is way over rated and somemore it is rated at Max.
The more realistic rating shall be in RMS, or in continuous power output.
So in real life your amp will most likely be just about 4 x 110W RMS.
Remember though, set you amp input sensitivity gain to Min and the HPF for your tweeters to be above 3,500HZ before you start to play and tune, or else you'll end up with 2 smoked tweeters!! :lol:
If you need any help on the tuning part, just let me know.
 

normality78

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wahahaha, i think dun even ahve 110w
 

icecube

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Originally posted by pisces+Mar 3 2005, 00:11 --></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (pisces @ Mar 3 2005, 00:11 )</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'>
Originally posted by icecube@Mar 2 2005, 23:23
<!--QuoteBegin-Yong_5290
@Mar 2 2005, 02:10
ice cube..throw away ur passive...u not onli can run active...u can now run ur system FULLY active...got band pass...


oh thanks mr.yong.. will put aside the passive crossover and go FULLY active.

Just thinking that the caliber 1600w 4ch is way too powerful for just the 6.5" and tweeter....
No worries!!
I think that Caliber amp is way over rated and somemore it is rated at Max.
The more realistic rating shall be in RMS, or in continuous power output.
So in real life your amp will most likely be just about 4 x 110W RMS.
Remember though, set you amp input sensitivity gain to Min and the HPF for your tweeters to be above 3,500HZ before you start to play and tune, or else you'll end up with 2 smoked tweeters!! :lol:
If you need any help on the tuning part, just let me know. [/b][/quote]
Set the gain to min, and HPF to above 3.5k ( will set to 5k)....

any specific tuning suggestion? would need ur help if i cant tune it nicely... thanks alot bro...

cheers!
 

Zenn

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sorry the mohawk website doesnt provide specs of the crossover.
 

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