Car Alternator or Battery Issue

Mitevo7

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Dear All,

Got a reply from said supplier of the voltage booster, they do not make anything for my model so i can scrap the item. Guess i need to go with bigger amp alternator to solve my power issue. We retuned the idling screw and now the engine idles at 800 rpm with A/C and radio on, voltage is at 13.6, however when the fan kicks in, it will rob the electricity to about 13.1 v. I can say the feel is better but we need another 0.5 v to ensure all systems get proper power supply.

Thanks,
Ken
 

Mitevo7

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Dear All,

I should mention also the battery is located at the back of the car, where as stock 1JZ is at the front, my gut feelings tell me my issue also something to do with the battery locations, which i am using thicker copper wires to connect from the alternator to the battery at the back, there might be voltage drop due to the length of cable?

Thanks,
Ken
 

gunnerzz

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Dear All,

I should mention also the battery is located at the back of the car, where as stock 1JZ is at the front, my gut feelings tell me my issue also something to do with the battery locations, which i am using thicker copper wires to connect from the alternator to the battery at the back, there might be voltage drop due to the length of cable?

Thanks,
Ken
Yes if u are using inferior cable.

Its just like those cheap jumper cable we can buy at hypermart. Most of them just simply wire 120amp at the packaging but when u try to jump start a car, its hardly working and u need to rev the jumper car to assist starting the dead car in order to overcome the cable resistance. I experienced this and decided to buy welding cable and used them as jumper. Now no need to rev anymore unless the dead car is totally dead.

Correct me if i am wrong but that is why TNB uses kV when transmitting power over the distance and reduces it back to 240v for our home to use.
 

vr2turbo

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Yes if u are using inferior cable.

Its just like those cheap jumper cable we can buy at hypermart. Most of them just simply wire 120amp at the packaging but when u try to jump start a car, its hardly working and u need to rev the jumper car to assist starting the dead car in order to overcome the cable resistance. I experienced this and decided to buy welding cable and used them as jumper. Now no need to rev anymore unless the dead car is totally dead.

Correct me if i am wrong but that is why TNB uses kV when transmitting power over the distance and reduces it back to 240v for our home to use.
Those cheap jumper cable looks thick but if you look at the wire attached to clamp, the wires very thin only, meaning the rubber is thick making the whole wire looks thick.....lol
 

sweelt

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Dear All,

I should mention also the battery is located at the back of the car, where as stock 1JZ is at the front, my gut feelings tell me my issue also something to do with the battery locations, which i am using thicker copper wires to connect from the alternator to the battery at the back, there might be voltage drop due to the length of cable?

Thanks,
Ken
If u slice cross the excess cable (if u have any left over), see what color of the cores. Can roughly see is copper plating or pure copper.
I use welding cable 300A pure copper during battery relocation. Price like double the copper plating cable. All about trying reduce the resistance from battery to everywhere.
 
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parakey

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Dear All,

Got a reply from said supplier of the voltage booster, they do not make anything for my model so i can scrap the item. Guess i need to go with bigger amp alternator to solve my power issue. We retuned the idling screw and now the engine idles at 800 rpm with A/C and radio on, voltage is at 13.6, however when the fan kicks in, it will rob the electricity to about 13.1 v. I can say the feel is better but we need another 0.5 v to ensure all systems get proper power supply.

Thanks,
Ken
Would a bigger battery help?
 

Mitevo7

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Those cheap jumper cable looks thick but if you look at the wire attached to clamp, the wires very thin only, meaning the rubber is thick making the whole wire looks thick.....lol
Doesn't seem like cheap jumper cable, since those used ground cables have transparent casing and i can see that the copper wire inside is thick, for the clamp wise, i am not so sure whether its up to your expectation, may be let me take another photo and put it here.

Thanks,
Ken
 

Mitevo7

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Should be worse since alternator not giving out enough charge......
Its the opposite, before changed to larger battery, all my electronics are shite, dimming lights, cluster lights up like Christmas tree, power window took ages to roll up (more than 10 seconds), engine not idling properly, A/C not work on time. After changed to larger battery, all works close to normal, except for windows still roll up slow (6 seconds), A/C works better but still sometimes missed its timing to release freon into the system.

Thanks,
Ken
 

Mitevo7

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If u slice cross the excess cable (if u have any left over), see what color of the cores. Can roughly see is copper plating or pure copper.
I use welding cable 300A pure copper during battery relocation. Price like double the copper plating cable. All about trying reduce the resistance from battery to everywhere.
This i need to check, probably the resistance is from the plating as it still looks like normal plating.

Thanks,
Ken
 

vr2turbo

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Its the opposite, before changed to larger battery, all my electronics are shite, dimming lights, cluster lights up like Christmas tree, power window took ages to roll up (more than 10 seconds), engine not idling properly, A/C not work on time. After changed to larger battery, all works close to normal, except for windows still roll up slow (6 seconds), A/C works better but still sometimes missed its timing to release freon into the system.

Thanks,
Ken
A bigger battery helps to feed enough power to your electrical system, but the alternator must be powerful enough to charge it back up. And in most cases the alternator usually takes over the running of the car electrical once it has started up
 
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parakey

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A bigger battery helps to feed enough power to your electrical system, but the alternator must be powerful enough to charge it back up. And in most cases the alternator usually takes over the running of the car electrical once it has started up
His issue is at idling speeds. If at higher rpm, he doesn't have this issue. So alternator is able to provide enough charge to run the car & still have enough for charging his battery. If not so, the battery will be drained flat. A bigger battery will help during idle as the alternator at such speeds isnt capable to provide enough.
 

vr2turbo

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His issue is at idling speeds. If at higher rpm, he doesn't have this issue. So alternator is able to provide enough charge to run the car & still have enough for charging his battery. If not so, the battery will be drained flat. A bigger battery will help during idle as the alternator at such speeds isnt capable to provide enough.
Actually at idling speed is not a problem, we don't idle all the time unless he drives a lot in jams. However his voltage drops further when his fans cuts in. As mentioned my hyundai charging at around 13.6v and VR 14.4v. Morning start my hyundai cranks much slower, and the crank is stronger in the afternoon after running for a while. VR crank is very strong....
 
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Mitevo7

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His issue is at idling speeds. If at higher rpm, he doesn't have this issue. So alternator is able to provide enough charge to run the car & still have enough for charging his battery. If not so, the battery will be drained flat. A bigger battery will help during idle as the alternator at such speeds isnt capable to provide enough.
Our suspicious is still with the alternator, does not provide enough power at lower RPM due to its lower amp. For ICE guys who installed powerful sound system, they do change to higher output alternator to compensate the lack of voltage during so-called idling rpm, especially for guys whose' battery is relocated to the trunk to accommodate larger battery.

Actually at idling speed is not a problem, we don't idle all the time unless he drives a lot in jams. However his voltage drops further when his fans cuts in. As mentioned my hyundai charging at around 13.6v and VR 14.4v. Morning start my hyundai cranks much slower, and the crank is stronger in the afternoon after running for a while. VR crank is very strong....
Both morning and afternoon, the 1JZ cranks very strong, i think mechanic and me can conclude that we need higher output alternator, either by purchasing a modified unit or we modify the existing one. Before adjusting the idling screw, at cold start the engine will not hang at 1K+ rpm for more than 5 seconds, and RPM stayed below 700 rpm. With the newly setup, the engine seems to be hanging on 1K+ rpm at cold start, and goes back to 800 rpm until the temperature reaches desirable range. In conclusion, adjusting the idling helps with the alternator to work better at idling, but its no sufficient.

Thanks,
Ken
 
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parakey

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Actually at idling speed is not a problem, we don't idle all the time unless he drives a lot in jams. However his voltage drops further when his fans cuts in. As mentioned my hyundai charging at around 13.6v and VR 14.4v. Morning start my hyundai cranks much slower, and the crank is stronger in the afternoon after running for a while. VR crank is very strong....
Bro, he has idle issues. Alternator not supplying enough during idle. Like I said earlier, if alternator consistently undercharging, the battery simply goes flat very soon
 
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