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sanekit

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pangyau

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Re: (Hypothetical) Wanna buy an Evo

Izso,

Nothing wrong can be judge from the advertisement and a good priced offered.
U can't escaped to have an issue after having an EVO.

Problem and faulty will came by sooner unless the car has been 100% rebuild inside/out.
AYC, valve seal, turbo, power steering, leaking etc it can be fix.

As long the chassis/body having and major accident history, it will be good.
Chassis the main key...

Good luck in hunting session.
 

RENESIS VIII

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Re: (Hypothetical) Wanna buy an Evo

Engine bay din't look that well cared for from the photos.
 

peterj

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Re: (Hypothetical) Wanna buy an Evo

Cash woh! no more loan.....:smokin:
our boss rich ma:biggrin: i still wonder why he no beep me even i gave him my number, now i know he open thread here dy so no need my help:biggrin: jkjk

look for chassis defect if any(spare tyres compartment etc) , when buying this kind of car, chassis is the no.1 point to look for, other can be buy and build but not the chassis, when have perfect chassis, look for engine condition,pull the engine dip stick and see the engine oil condition,if it is very dark like black ink, mean the owner didnt take good care of it,at least for the moment he overdrive the car for a period of time or mileage..open radiator cap when cold to check the coolant condition as well..

when in start condition, open little the engine oil cap to see, dont fully open, just little, to see is any smoke pouring out, lot of smoke indicate there are too much blow by and might be indicating wear of piston ring or worst, ring groove crack...after that listen to the engine idling sound, is it like little loud sewing machine? if yes then mean hydraulic lifter might be worn out already, but this one no serious problem can change, common issue for 4g63:biggrin:

after checked engine good, when test drive, i will not cover testing on the suspension bushing etc condition, that one i believe u know about it... i not sure the owner let you test the car hard enough of not, but first during test drive, test for smooth engagement of gear in all gears to test the transmission, that one is normal driving, if the owner allowed you to redline it, i will suggest you do a short 2nd-3rd-4th pull, mean 2nd drive till high rpm if can to the redline, change to 3rd and 4th, if all go in smoothly mean good gb with good synchro, my last time is problem when 2nd to 3rd when high rev tend to stuck,and the gear go in like "grok", it is sign of wear synchro

after that, during the test drive, also, remember drive the car to mid speed, rpm more than 4k, in 2nd or 3rd gear, accelerate or hold the throttle till the rpm rage and let go totally the throttle, listen care fully any gear grinding ,humming or whining sound during the car decelerating it self,some cases are during acceleration, if no mean good transfer case and rear gearbox, if got noticeable loud grinding or whining, high possibility transfer or rear gb problem, as far as i know, evo 4 and above which has ayc will not have loud whining and grinding during deceleration, unless is rs model or is e3 and below which use 1.5way plate lsd at rear(e1 gsr use viscous so no sound also)..

next, as we know,e7 and above has acd, three modes, tarmac,gravel and snow, basically rumor stated that for tarmac, 70% rear 30% front power distribution, gravel 50\50, snow 70% front 30 % rear, i do not really know how to take the acd unit for the test, but on my e10, in tarmac mode, u feel the smoothness of the ride, but if u use gravel mode on tarmac(i accidentally pressed the button and didnt notice), you feel something is dragging or holding the car down to the floor, like u are pulling a car behind you, maybe this is one short way to test it out the acd really does the torque and power splitting:nurse:

for ayc, i think no owner willing to let you try it since you need to whack corner with higher speed to feel the inner wheel is slowed down and outer wheel is helping you slide your car through the corner,but if the owner willing to,try it out, good empty road with a little bit of speed, whack the corner safely with speed, beside feel the torque split in the rear, listen any sound from the transmission or not, of during whacking the corner,got loud grind or whining sound from rear, need check ayc clutches dy

and owner really allowed, do some high speed cruising , from 80km/h - 140km/h, notice any vibration of the car during acceleration or cruising, if the propeller shaft or a.k.a long shaft got problem will also causes vibration, but all above just my little sense, a lots more to look for, but do not expect to buy and drive and hope it is perfect conditions, more than 10 years must got lot of small or big stuff need to take care or built, dont understand what i mean? go dig up my junkyard evo rebuilt thread then you know:biggrin:unless you really rally it and live up the problems with you :smokin: now you know why i ask you to beep me :rolleyes::listen:
 

6UE5t

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Re: (Hypothetical) Wanna buy an Evo

Guys,

Let's say hypothetically I want to buy an Evo 7, based on the ad below is this a good buy?

If not why not?
If yes why so?


http://www.mudah.my/2001+Mitsubishi+Evo+7+mr+2+0+M+-56418543.htm
Hohoho, got itchy eh brother?? :biggrin:

A mechanic car can mean good or bad.
The good thing can be that since he's a mechanic, he should know how to take care of the car and maybe know where and how to get better parts. You may also return to him for continued repair & maintenance if he's good, or at least ask for advises later on.
However on the other hand it can actually be bad too, whereby since he knows about cars, he also knows how to 'cheat'/do a workaround of an issue instead of fixing it properly and hide it from you! It can also mean it's very easy for him to exchange parts with worse ones, as long as it can still hold temporarily until he sold it off.

Thus I cannot say good buy or not, need to test and check like suggested above. The ads I admit looks interesting, but there are quite many E7 on sale also now, some still look original, some already converted to E9. So I guess you just have to test and compare them. As for the price, this one seems rather low but actually in the last year or so, there were already even cheaper E7s at just 60-65k asking price. In terms of value for money, E7 seems to be the best buy now as it's already even cheaper than older Evos!

Aside from that one, these also look nice:
http://www.mudah.my/Mitsubishi+evo+7-55761496.htm
https://www.carlist.my/used-cars/2001-2005-mitsubishi-evo-2-0-sedan/3880795
 

6UE5t

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Re: (Hypothetical) Wanna buy an Evo

Looking at the choice of Rota wheels for the white unit, that doesn't seem convincing about the owner's parts selection. :biggrin:
Hahaha, but many Evo owners use cheaper rims also. If original Rota PH, actually not that bad and not that cheap too here. At least you can see the rims still perfectly aligned with the fenders so he selected a proper size in terms of widths & offsets.
 

marsha1l_v6

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Aug 1, 2013
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Re: (Hypothetical) Wanna buy an Evo

and im here still eye-ing for evo3/lancer body...hahah..

parked here..nice tips sifu peterj
 

Izso

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Re: (Hypothetical) Wanna buy an Evo

PeterJ : I know you would reply here so I didn't whatsapp you. Hehehe.. anyway this is hypothetical. I'm not entirely sure I want to get a E7.

6UEST : thanks but not itchy. If itchy means I have the money but deciding whether to buy or not. Right now no money to buy but may come across some deal that may allow a second car.
 

6UE5t

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Re: (Hypothetical) Wanna buy an Evo

PeterJ : I know you would reply here so I didn't whatsapp you. Hehehe.. anyway this is hypothetical. I'm not entirely sure I want to get a E7.

6UEST : thanks but not itchy. If itchy means I have the money but deciding whether to buy or not. Right now no money to buy but may come across some deal that may allow a second car.
What does that mean, "may come across some deal that may allow a 2nd car"?? Means got potential to get more money or figure something out to buy it la, right?
Anyway itchy enough to ask here I suppose. :biggrin:
 

pangyau

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Re: (Hypothetical) Wanna buy an Evo

Guidance by Peterj very much impressive.

Normally the owner reluctant to let the potential buyer for such harsh test drive.
Anything broken during the test, both party will be in hard time.

Normally you will not find anything wrong/faulty during that test on that short period.
It will be best to bring the car to your known workshop to deal with some test.
Undercarriage check, gearbox check, internal check including ECU to check on fault code.

Just drive the potential car normally and get the feeling you might accouter (50% only can be trust)
We always have negative doubt on many things. Inspection in the workshop will clear everything.

CT9A just and old wanna be sport car.
Fun car and able to do some torque from time to time.