Top overhaul guide

enjin

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Jan 29, 2014
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This is my personal take on your car overhaul. It's an old car, are you planning on keeping it longer? If yes, change out the seats and guide. There's bound to be a lot of wear and tear on a 15 year old car. You'll need a machine shop to do this for you.

Oil sump gasket, crankshaft oil seal, camshaft oil seal, clutch and the seal that's at the clutch side (forgot what that's called) and a few smaller rubber seals for the oil pump. water pump, erm... eh wait.. this is just a top overhaul right? If just top most of these things no need to touch unless you want to. But might as well since your timing belt and all will be out. Change all the belts as well.

Btw, don't forget - get new head bolts. The main bolts that lock down your head to the block. Old ones would be stretched out already so change them out.
Wow, experience speaks here. Thanks for the informative reply.:biggrin: u are a sifu indeed:adore:
So to sum things up here, ur advice are: 1) Change the valve seat and guide, 2) new head bolts.

Bro, once you do that you're going all the way full overhaul already. Are you sure you're ready to do all that? King bearings and all should go as well if you're taking out the piston rings.
this thing got me a lil bit confused. some shop also offer to change piston ring on top of top overhaul, aside from full overhaul. So i guess full o/haul will include more detail process on the block (like resleeving u mention?) not sure..


Just skim the damn thing. Manufacturers designed the head to allow up to 6 to 10 skims (I think) so just skim it down 1mm or more. Just don't reach the max limit (there's an indicator on the head itself). Better to be completely flat (the head) and once skimmed, never place it down on the skimmed surface. If you do, make sure it's padded with a nice cloth or something. Skimmed surface is flat, you ding it a bit and you'll need to re-skim.

But that's just me being anal. And I skimmed my old head to the max for the compression. Powaaahhhhhh. Cuz I had a spare head anyway.
You got ur point here. Definitely go for skimming since we not going to remove head that often. the way u describe it, i think urs might be way better than a new engine..haha. very delicate indeed. good job!


Yes.. valve grinding is an absolute necessity. But are you gonna oversize? If not then just a simple grind will do. If you're looking to do something extra and wanna do it DIY like me :
I think for me i ll remain the standard size. about the DIY thing, it does make a point. making a greater surface area for better vapourisation. nice! but will it eventually promote carbon deposit?


Dude, top overhaul or full overhaul ah? If full, then you're looking at block resleeving if it's in bad condition (or you wanna oversize) and oversized pistons with piston rings, then of course there's the bearing guides. Shit loads of things la. I just hope you find a mechanic who knows what he's doing and is honest about it. DIY!
Mine im not going to change the ring unless got issues. just for general opinion. good to hear from you dude:biggrin:

yeah, honesty, which money cant distinguish. thanks for the encouragement dude! tho i think DIY overhaul is too harsh for me. heck i never even once change eo myself..haha


Metal gaskets are good and bad. Good is it can take punishment from a high compression engine for example. But bad is when it breaks, it just lets go and instant oil + water mix. You have to be completely dedicated to swapping it out when it reaches 80k ~ 100k km and don't take chances with a metal gasket.
now that i know it, i rather use oem one, lol. so u were saying if u plan to skim ur head thinner (higher compression), then metal gasket will be useful.

Workshops that I can think of that'll be willing to do that much mods would be GT Auto and probably Under5. Not entirely sure. But you better prepare a lot of money if you do decide to go modding with them. What you're asking to do isn't going to be cheap (modding).
Saw their web, all nice car wan. apart from my budget, im afraid my car become invisible there.

ok, it all about my budget. lol. seems like a good n proper place for modding. any other workshop u ve been to?

I did it DIY with 2 other friends 6 months total. The cost of everything was enough to buy a GSR, completely refurbish the GSR and install into my car but I didn't want to do an engine swap and I had no faith in mechanics after 2 screw ups from mechanics (one was Proton themselves!)
there are 2 types of auto freaks imo. one is those obsessed with newer model (testdriving every single model that just came out), and two, modding freaks. in ur case, u r among the leader of the modding hood. am i going too deep here?:biggrin:

Great to hear from sifus around here. appreciate ur detailed explanation. :adore: will update 1st post:burnout:
 

Izso

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Wow, experience speaks here. Thanks for the informative reply.:biggrin: u are a sifu indeed:adore:
So to sum things up here, ur advice are: 1) Change the valve seat and guide, 2) new head bolts.
I'm no sifu man. I'm just vocal about what I've done and do. My level of skill is nothing compared to the likes of johnsonlam and some other quiet hidden sifus who just read and never post stuff here.

this thing got me a lil bit confused. some shop also offer to change piston ring on top of top overhaul, aside from full overhaul. So i guess full o/haul will include more detail process on the block (like resleeving u mention?) not sure..
Well, if the workshop is going to change your piston rings without removing the bottom half of your engine then I'd like to know how they do it.

Just fyi, resleeving isn't a 100% must do. It depends on the condition of your block. Lets say it's badly scratched or worn, then it's probably a good idea to resleeve to go with your new piston rings. But if it's not too badly worn and don't plan on oversizing your pistons or whatever, then no point resleeving la. Just scared you might have compression loss. All depends on what you find out after the pistons come out.

You got ur point here. Definitely go for skimming since we not going to remove head that often. the way u describe it, i think urs might be way better than a new engine..haha. very delicate indeed. good job!
:biggrin: I'd like to think so too. I did a whole lot more than what I've told you.


I think for me i ll remain the standard size. about the DIY thing, it does make a point. making a greater surface area for better vapourisation. nice! but will it eventually promote carbon deposit?
Carbon deposits? I don't seem to have that problem. Btw, without the tools, you can't do the power lynz and all that. It's a delicate job and those valves aren't unbreakable. So don't try it without the proper tools.


now that i know it, i rather use oem one, lol. so u were saying if u plan to skim ur head thinner (higher compression), then metal gasket will be useful.
Er.. no la. Stock engine can use metal gaskets too. Just a matter of choice. Metal gaskets can take more punishment than normal gaskets. Your car is stock, so no point going metal since it's more expensive to buy anyway.

Saw their web, all nice car wan. apart from my budget, im afraid my car become invisible there.

ok, it all about my budget. lol. seems like a good n proper place for modding. any other workshop u ve been to?
Actually, I forgot what his nickname here is, Mitch Chong the GRA fella has a workshop in Kepong. He's quite reliable too. Don't let him brainwash you into turning your car into a GRA car though, the fella is GRA gila :biggrin:

there are 2 types of auto freaks imo. one is those obsessed with newer model (testdriving every single model that just came out), and two, modding freaks. in ur case, u r among the leader of the modding hood. am i going too deep here?:biggrin:

Great to hear from sifus around here. appreciate ur detailed explanation. :adore: will update 1st post:burnout:
Leader? Are you kidding me? Look at the other modators, yeehau has an Altis that isn't an Altis, PocketRocket has a pocket rocket CRZ, Tom has a scary V12 BMW, FSD @ fstrader used to have an automatic Wira which he claimed was stock but he'd bring his 'stock' wira and it would always win him GRA competitions, then there's some quieter hidden moderators like joeker and Jin who used to have super heavily modified turbo wiras. Let's not forget Blackhowling and his orange Garfield 2JZ

Dude, I'm obsessed with modding yes - but I'm no leader! I'm more of a DIY guy really.
 
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vr2turbo

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I'm no sifu man. I'm just vocal about what I've done and do. My level of skill is nothing compared to the likes of johnsonlam and some other quiet hidden sifus who just read and never post stuff here.
People like you and Johnson are just good, if you can share your knowledge with us. Whether a lot or limited, sharing is caring. Keep to yourself and others won't learn.....:adore:
 

enjin

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Jan 29, 2014
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I'm no sifu man. I'm just vocal about what I've done and do. My level of skill is nothing compared to the likes of johnsonlam and some other quiet hidden sifus who just read and never post stuff here.
Gotta respect that. you shared lots of useful info here does make a difference. appreciate that:driver:


Well, if the workshop is going to change your piston rings without removing the bottom half of your engine then I'd like to know how they do it.
Haha, of course need to take out the block. Maybe they asssume that full overhaul including replacing bearing and all that. imo theres a blurred line between top, full and engine rebuild term.


Just fyi, resleeving isn't a 100% must do. It depends on the condition of your block. Lets say it's badly scratched or worn, then it's probably a good idea to resleeve to go with your new piston rings. But if it's not too badly worn and don't plan on oversizing your pistons or whatever, then no point resleeving la. Just scared you might have compression loss. All depends on what you find out after the pistons come out.
agreed on this. thats why u better be there when they strip ur engine down, so u get to know what and what not to do.


Actually, I forgot what his nickname here is, Mitch Chong the GRA fella has a workshop in Kepong. He's quite reliable too. Don't let him brainwash you into turning your car into a GRA car though, the fella is GRA gila :biggrin:
haha. then i shld go there with my parents lol. kepong kinda far, but those from kepong can take note!


Leader? Are you kidding me? Look at the other modators, yeehau has an Altis that isn't an Altis, PocketRocket has a pocket rocket CRZ, Tom has a scary V12 BMW, FSD @ fstrader used to have an automatic Wira which he claimed was stock but he'd bring his 'stock' wira and it would always win him GRA competitions, then there's some quieter hidden moderators like joeker and Jin who used to have super heavily modified turbo wiras. Let's not forget Blackhowling and his orange Garfield 2JZ

Dude, I'm obsessed with modding yes - but I'm no leader! I'm more of a DIY guy really.
wow, sounds like wira quite popular among moderators here:driver: newbie here:wavey: wld like to hear ur personal experience on this. guess i went too deep on leader thing, haha. but we need more people like u. you earn the knowledge in a hard (and expensive) way, yet u guys willing to share with us.

technical question here, 1) is it possible to clean the top of piston head without removing the block?

2) my engine block is covered by almost 1 cm thick of sludge, even after an engine wash. maybe due to eo leaking for a while now. any product to deal with it? plan to buy it and ask the mech to clean it. really hurt my eyes seeing it.

3) regarding the compression, what will happen if we increase it? any change in fc? more heat produced?
 
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Izso

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wow, sounds like wira quite popular among moderators here:driver: newbie here:wavey: wld like to hear ur personal experience on this. guess i went too deep on leader thing, haha. but we need more people like u. you earn the knowledge in a hard (and expensive) way, yet u guys willing to share with us.
Having said that - all the modders that drove Wiras no longer drive wiras. I wouldn't say what I learnt is hard - just expensive. I didn't want to just change the engine to a Mivec or GSR and be done with it. People just Justin Merrill in America have psychotic drag 4G15 machines that need a wastegate for idling cuz the supercharger runs at 0.8 bar pressure on idle. People like Justin are the true mad fellas.

technical question here, 1) is it possible to clean the top of piston head without removing the block?

2) my engine block is covered by almost 1 cm thick of sludge, even after an engine wash. maybe due to eo leaking for a while now. any product to deal with it? plan to buy it and ask the mech to clean it. really hurt my eyes seeing it.

3) regarding the compression, what will happen if we increase it? any change in fc? more heat produced?
1. Yes it is. Remove the head and the piston tops are revealed lor.
2. Degreaser, a brush and a high pressure water hose. Or just use diesel to wash your engine. Just remember to rinse it well after washing.
3. higher compression will just mean higher power to some extent. Yes - more heat too. But all depends on how much you go. Even if you fully skim your head to the max it won't do anything too drastic other than sometimes knock at high revs if you're using low octane petrol. If you're talking about high compression pistons and skimming, then you better hope your ECU can adapt otherwise you might need to use high octane petrol already.
 

vr2turbo

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izso...can use diesel to wash engine ah? wanna try so no need to buy degreaser.
That is what the station people use, but as mentioned by bro. Izso have to rinse well, because diesel is petroleum product and it attacks rubber on the long run. So if use often some rubber parts may go faster. Another is kerosene. I used to use that but got to rinse well too with soap or shampoo, so is double job.
Which car you want to clean? Can come my house lah! I got water base degreaser now. Water base is easy, just clean and rinse off....:smokin:
 

pangyau

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Hi all, tumpang thread...

My ride Waja 2004 - 4G18 now reached 10 years already.
Having an intention for full overhaul/major maintenance on it.
Any possibilities to guide which workshop somewhere in S.Alam are trust worthy.
As I will provide/supply the parts required and just need the labour/technicalities.

Intentionally, to make the engine back to zero hour and to make the car "new again".

Thanks in advance
 

Izso

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Hi all, tumpang thread...

My ride Waja 2004 - 4G18 now reached 10 years already.
Having an intention for full overhaul/major maintenance on it.
Any possibilities to guide which workshop somewhere in S.Alam are trust worthy.
As I will provide/supply the parts required and just need the labour/technicalities.

Intentionally, to make the engine back to zero hour and to make the car "new again".

Thanks in advance
I don't know about Shah Alam. My recommendation is in Kepong. One of our more popular GRA racers Mitch Chong's workshop. The fella is reliable plenty. Just don't let him poison you into turning your car into a GRA racer. :biggrin: (seriously - he's good)

Izso: Eh... what Supra? Supra's an old car laaa.... :)
Bugger.. 11 years old and I'm barely above 10% of what your Garfield outputs ok!! :thefinger:
 

pangyau

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Izso,
Thanks for your guide and please share the address.
I need really trust worthy mechanic to handle the maintenance.
As I unable to monitor during/after the process.
Hopefully the job could be done in reasonable time frame.

Modding the Waja will be not in the list.
I want to keep it bone stock forever for sentimental value.
Definitely looking for reasonable price.
 

twistedpotato

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I don't know about Shah Alam. My recommendation is in Kepong. One of our more popular GRA racers Mitch Chong's workshop. The fella is reliable plenty. Just don't let him poison you into turning your car into a GRA racer. :biggrin: (seriously - he's good)



Bugger.. 11 years old and I'm barely above 10% of what your Garfield outputs ok!! :thefinger:
Bro tumpang thread, can give the address of the workshop at Kepong? I wanna check out my car issue there too hehe.
 

punk

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Hi guys,

Talking about engine balancing. i still dont understand the concept.
I heard engine internal can be only do balancing 3 times(i assume is only the crankshaft part only).

Let say i'm going to DIY, Which part i should sent to engineering shop?

I should send :
1. Crankpully
2. Crankshaft
3. Flywheel
4. Conrod
5. Piston ( need to send with piston ring inside also?)
6. Camshaft with it's pulley?( This part needed?)
7. Torque Converter ( let say i drive auto, this part also need to sent?:biggrin:)
8. Or gearbox itself also need to send to balance?:confused:
9. Clutch plate with it;s cover

Is there a few type of balancing? like semi balancing, high speed balancing?
 

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