Top overhaul guide

enjin

Junior Member
Jan 29, 2014
13
2
503
Kuala Lumpur
Hi, as per title, plan to do top overhaul on my wira 4g13 MMC injection. would like to enquire about parts n process involve during top overhaul. My car got leaking for a while now, so instead of changing the gasket only, I prefer to make it one time job. Not interested in full overhaul/engine rebuiding as the cost might as well buying new engine/car dp.

Parts:

1) Head gasket (cld be normal or metal one)
2) Valve seal
3) Valve cover gasket
4) Valve guide, valve seat (may change if u plan to keep it longer)
5) Intake manifold gasket
6) Head bolts (old one tend to stretch)
7) Other cheap2 oil seal and gasket (oil sump gasket, crankshaft oil seal) too many seal, even foreman not know the name, lol. but important to know where it is located.

Open up a little bit further, u can also replace ur piston ring or conrod bearing as these things also has its wear and tear. You are going to full overhaul already.

Process

1) Head skimming (good time to skim it, as long as within manufacturers limit)
2) valve grinding (to keep good sealing between valve surface and port hole for good compression)
3) Wash parts with petrol (esp parts when u open rocker arm cover
4) Cleaning/ decarbonise parts (piston head, intake manifold etc) most cheap overhaul w/shop will skip (3) and (4).
5) You can also opt for Port and Polish while you at it. (better result if u plan to do engine mods like hi-cam, etc)


This is also a good time to change other parts to minimise work, like water pipe, water bypass hose, belting, water pump etc if they need to change. Also a good time to flush ur rusted radiator. check if there is any leakage too.

As for the parts part, what else that could help in engine performance and high wear and tear rate? piston, valve itself? Thing is i plan to buy the necessary performance part myself, any part and brand to recommend?

Not all workshop capable of doing above process, so they ll sub it to machinist, hence higher cost. Those process might need professional touch, at least for me. If u happen to do or have recommendation of such workshop, u can list it here also.

Think any engine will share more or less of above information. So please share your experience!
 
Last edited:

DanzEterna

Moderator
Moderator
Senior Member
Nov 1, 2007
15,911
3,371
3,213
PJ
www.primeperdanaclub.com
where is our sifu Izso....

---------- Post added at 04:14 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:12 PM ----------

my suggestion u buy the full overhaul kit instead of top overhaul kit, not much difference.
for example perdana top overhaul kit rm150, full overhaul kit rm250 both made in japan.
but u have to fork out some extra $$$ for workmanship depending on other stuffs u need to change while in the process.
your engine will lasts at least another 10 years.
 

punk

Known Member
Senior Member
Aug 6, 2011
360
76
528
Negeri Sembilan
Every tools for the job complete dy?

have u ever change timing belt before?

This is my target man, full proper overhaul.
 

synail

Known Member
Senior Member
May 13, 2004
259
19
3,018
.
Visit site
done mine 2 weeks ago
3++km so far no leaks

add some for u

water pipe
water bypass hose
new beltings
water pump
spark plugs
radiator coolant

others i forgot
head distort a bit but i didnt skim it

hey guys care to add some?
 

^pomen_GTR^

7,000 RPM
Senior Member
May 13, 2010
7,509
1,690
1,713
The Mines
Hi, as per title, plan to do top overhaul on my wira 4g13 MMC injection. would like to enquire about parts n process involve during top overhaul. My car got leaking for a while now, so instead of changing the gasket only, I prefer to make it one time job. Not interested in full overhaul/engine rebuiding as the cost might as well buying new engine/car dp.

Parts:

1) Head gasket
2) Valve seal
3) Valve cover gasket
4) Valve guide? valve seat? *no need to do anything on this

5) Intake manifold gasket
6) Other cheap2 oil seal and gasket (oil sump gasket, crankshaft oil seal)<--help me to list this :confused:

Open up a little bit further, u can also replace ur piston ring or conrod bearing as these thing also has its wear and tear.

Process

1) Head skimming (i think this is important for 15 years old engine) #only if your head warped/bent due to overheating..else no need to do it

2) valve grinding (not sure what is this, care to explain?) #yes to keep good sealing between valve surface and port hole for good compression

3) Wash parts with petrol (esp parts when u open rocker arm cover
4) Cleaning/ decarbonise parts (piston head, intake manifold etc) most cheap overhaul w/shop will skip (3) and (4). Am i rite
5) You can also opt for Port and Polish while you at it. But is it advisable to do just polish? #no need to touch unless u plan to do engine mods such as high performance camshaft and other performance upgrade

6) (Help me to list out other major process involving head, valve, piston or the block maybe?)

As for the parts part, what else that could help in engine performance and high wear and tear rate? piston, valve itself? Thing is i plan to buy the necessary performance part myself, any part and brand to recommend? like metal gasket

Not all workshop capable of doing above process, so they ll sub it to machinist, hence higher cost. Those process might need professional touch, at least for me. If u happen to do or have recommendation of such workshop, u can list it here also.

Think any engine will share more or less of above information. So please share your experience!

as in the quote
 

dking91

Known Member
Mar 26, 2013
121
11
518
pekan
newbies thought....
just some add on
1. new valve
2. timing belt

make sure the grind valve process done correctly... check for leak by pouring fuel to the in/ex after finish grinding....
skim head can be optional if u wan to increase ur compression..
 

SkYwAlKeR

Over 10,000 RPM!
Senior Member
Mar 12, 2005
10,139
300
5,183
ePoh ~ malacca
Visit site
new valves are not necessary... sometimes, oem valves are better than spare part shop replacement valves... just clean them up nicely and regrind the valve seat... if u have the time, double check the sealing after installing the valve springs... previously i use multiple grade grinding paste to grind valve... finishing off with autosol... lolz...

take ur time cleaning up everything... plan ur upgrades along the way... such as teflon thermal gasket, new intake/exhaust studs, polished intake manifold and cylinder head... port match all of them... new gasket and oil seal everywhere...

knowing what to do and doing it urself is totally different... make sure u have some sifuu standby as backup just incase u screw up (for first timer).... and of coz, ur tools must be appropriate and complete...
 

Hadi17

Known Member
Dec 13, 2010
145
10
518
Johor
i recently bought a wira for my college use for RM8k .. not to expect much from that because its cheap but still in running condition .. there's this sound coming out from the engine and i really could not say what is the problem :bawling: .. it makes this (loceng clutch) type of sound when the car starts to move or once it changes the gear . ita a automatic tranny for the info. anyone had this problem before ? please help me .. thanks sifu's :)
 

enjin

Junior Member
Thread starter
Jan 29, 2014
13
2
503
Kuala Lumpur
where is our sifu Izso....

---------- Post added at 04:14 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:12 PM ----------

my suggestion u buy the full overhaul kit instead of top overhaul kit, not much difference.
for example perdana top overhaul kit rm150, full overhaul kit rm250 both made in japan.
but u have to fork out some extra $$$ for workmanship depending on other stuffs u need to change while in the process.
your engine will lasts at least another 10 years.
good info here. may i know which part/bearing/sealant added for full overhaul kit? since i plan to get a thorough care for my engine, the cost for full overhaul itself will cause like 5k above for pro job iinm. will consider it once i know the condition of my block. thanks:adore:

---------- Post added at 09:44 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:21 AM ----------

thanks for the generous replies, guys! all info will be updated on the first post!:adore:

new valves are not necessary... sometimes, oem valves are better than spare part shop replacement valves... just clean them up nicely and regrind the valve seat... if u have the time, double check the sealing after installing the valve springs... previously i use multiple grade grinding paste to grind valve... finishing off with autosol... lolz...

take ur time cleaning up everything... plan ur upgrades along the way... such as teflon thermal gasket, new intake/exhaust studs, polished intake manifold and cylinder head... port match all of them... new gasket and oil seal everywhere...

knowing what to do and doing it urself is totally different... make sure u have some sifuu standby as backup just incase u screw up (for first timer).... and of coz, ur tools must be appropriate and complete...
interesting thought here. thats what im going to focus at, more like cleaning the engine head into every detail possible. i am satisfied with the current performance and fc, think by cleaning it perfectly wld give a better performance, smoothness and durability, while maintaining fc consumption.

had a look on how grinding and porting are done, very interesting. suprise how u guys can do it:adore: of course i have no plan on do it on my own, im afraid if i do it suddenly become 2-stroke after reassamble, lol. but it cld be a good guide for those who plan to diy.

may i know what is teflon thermal gasket for? is it head gasket or intake manifold one? thank you
 

Izso

NA NA NA NA NA
Helmet Clan
Moderator
Mar 28, 2004
15,389
6,411
5,213
KL
1) Head gasket
2) Valve seal
3) Valve cover gasket
4) Valve guide, valve seat (possibly just leave it as it is)
5) Intake manifold gasket
6) Other cheap2 oil seal and gasket (oil sump gasket, crankshaft oil seal) too many seal, even foreman not know the name, lol. but important to know where it is located.
This is my personal take on your car overhaul. It's an old car, are you planning on keeping it longer? If yes, change out the seats and guide. There's bound to be a lot of wear and tear on a 15 year old car. You'll need a machine shop to do this for you.

Oil sump gasket, crankshaft oil seal, camshaft oil seal, clutch and the seal that's at the clutch side (forgot what that's called) and a few smaller rubber seals for the oil pump. water pump, erm... eh wait.. this is just a top overhaul right? If just top most of these things no need to touch unless you want to. But might as well since your timing belt and all will be out. Change all the belts as well.

Btw, don't forget - get new head bolts. The main bolts that lock down your head to the block. Old ones would be stretched out already so change them out.

Open up a little bit further, u can also replace ur piston ring or conrod bearing as these thing also has its wear and tear.
Bro, once you do that you're going all the way full overhaul already. Are you sure you're ready to do all that? King bearings and all should go as well if you're taking out the piston rings.

1) Head skimming (only if your head warped/bent due to overheating..else no need to do it)
I'm anal about these things. There's a reason why the head bolts stretch and compress the headgasket the way it does. It cannot afford any deformation and 99% of the time mechanics will not wait until the head is 100% completely cooled before removing the head. And even if you do remove it when it's completely cooled, the head might be deformed even just a little bit because of the way the head bolts were locked down. The slightest deformation and you're gonna experience hell on earth if it leaks.

Just skim the damn thing. Manufacturers designed the head to allow up to 6 to 10 skims (I think) so just skim it down 1mm or more. Just don't reach the max limit (there's an indicator on the head itself). Better to be completely flat (the head) and once skimmed, never place it down on the skimmed surface. If you do, make sure it's padded with a nice cloth or something. Skimmed surface is flat, you ding it a bit and you'll need to re-skim.

But that's just me being anal. And I skimmed my old head to the max for the compression. Powaaahhhhhh. Cuz I had a spare head anyway.

Skim it la. It's out already lor.

2) valve grinding (to keep good sealing between valve surface and port hole for good compression)
3) Wash parts with petrol (esp parts when u open rocker arm cover
4) Cleaning/ decarbonise parts (piston head, intake manifold etc) most cheap overhaul w/shop will skip (3) and (4). Am i rite?
5) You can also opt for Port and Polish while you at it. (better result if u plan to do engine mods like hi-cam, etc)
Yes.. valve grinding is an absolute necessity. But are you gonna oversize? If not then just a simple grind will do. If you're looking to do something extra and wanna do it DIY like me :

Prepping Valves for Performance

:biggrin:

Remember - when washing steel parts, after drying always cover it in engine oil or WD40 to prevent rust. Just cover it in clean engine oil and that'll save you a helluva headache later from rusted parts.

Port and Polish will help provided it's done right. A shitty job will screw up your cars power and performance. Again, if you're wanting to DIY this, have a look at this. I did this for my old head :

Performance and Economy &mdash; Mike Holler and Bob O&rsquo;Neill discuss Chrysler turbochargers

:biggrin:

6) (Help me to list out other major process involving head, valve, piston or the block maybe?)
Dude, top overhaul or full overhaul ah? If full, then you're looking at block resleeving if it's in bad condition (or you wanna oversize) and oversized pistons with piston rings, then of course there's the bearing guides. Shit loads of things la. I just hope you find a mechanic who knows what he's doing and is honest about it. DIY!

This is also a good time to change other part to minimise work, like water pipe, water bypass hose, belting, water pump etc if they need to change.
Hoses are a good idea to change. If you've never changed them before it's not expensive to swap out. Have the radiator flushed and cleaned too but don't touch the fins. Check for leaks after flushing. Water pump and oil pump ideally should change if it's never been touched before in 15 years. It's a lot of work to remove so since almost everything is out, might as well do it now.

As for the parts part, what else that could help in engine performance and high wear and tear rate? piston, valve itself? Thing is i plan to buy the necessary performance part myself, any part and brand to recommend? like metal gasket
Metal gaskets are good and bad. Good is it can take punishment from a high compression engine for example. But bad is when it breaks, it just lets go and instant oil + water mix. You have to be completely dedicated to swapping it out when it reaches 80k ~ 100k km and don't take chances with a metal gasket.

Not all workshop capable of doing above process, so they ll sub it to machinist, hence higher cost. Those process might need professional touch, at least for me. If u happen to do or have recommendation of such workshop, u can list it here also.

Think any engine will share more or less of above information. So please share your experience!
Workshops that I can think of that'll be willing to do that much mods would be GT Auto and probably Under5. Not entirely sure. But you better prepare a lot of money if you do decide to go modding with them. What you're asking to do isn't going to be cheap (modding).

I did it DIY with 2 other friends 6 months total. The cost of everything was enough to buy a GSR, completely refurbish the GSR and install into my car but I didn't want to do an engine swap and I had no faith in mechanics after 2 screw ups from mechanics (one was Proton themselves!)

Good luck. :biggrin:
 
Last edited:

DebraPrange

Junior Member
Jan 3, 2014
8
4
503
new york city,
Metal gaskets are good and bad. Good is it can take punishment from a high compression engine for example. But bad is when it breaks, it just lets go and instant oil + water mix. You have to be completely dedicated to swapping it out when it reaches 80k ~ 100k km and don't take chances with a metal gasket.
i support .. and why not as good comes along with the bad so be ready to accept it as well
 

Random Post Every 5 Minutes

<p><a href="http://www.zerotohundred.com/2013/auto-features/rs-collectif-heads-for-the-nissan-renault-roadshow-bsc/attachment/_mg_1819/" rel="attachment wp-att-54174"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-54174" src="http://www.zerotohundred.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/MG_1819-600x400.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="400" /></a></p>
<p>Last Saturday, <strong>'(00)</strong> hopped in an RS250 (courtesy of TC Euro Cars) and participated in one of the largest Renault gatherings for a...
Ask a question, start a discussion or post something for sale!
Post thread

Online now

Enjoying Zerotohundred?

Log-in for an ad-less experience