D16A Turbo EG8

[stupiddog]

can also.. but need to do something with the ignition timing .... install a safc will advance the stock ignition timing... somemore safc cant control the timing... or just retard the distributor

 

[fandy0211]

Saw 1 Honda turbo kit cost RM6.8k,for me is worth..but excluded "air filter","injector","fuel pump"..tuning included but not stated which ECU used 4 it..sweat...not complete yet,still gonna buy here buy there...(-.-")
http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/engine-and-performance/81740-honda-turbo-kits-11.html

Ur quest:
1) vitara 1.6 98' piston new-RM650
http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1437597
b20b conrod-RM500
http://www.zerotohundred.com/newfor...-b16a-b18c-type-r-and-b20b-part-for-sell.html

CONCLUSION:cheap and save..for budgeted owner like us..hehe:proud:

2)depend what horsepower u aim,250cc can go 250hp+/-,450cc can go 300hp++
250cc(used)=RM350
http://www.mudah.my/4AGE+250cc+injectors+n+Vacum+Sensor-6362226.htm

450cc=RM200
http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/engine-and-performance/130761-450cc-injectors.html

CONCLUSION:450cc cheaper than 250cc??WTF!!!so go for 450cc,remember fuel pump,n fuel regulator~~~

3) TD04(cheap,wide,low RPM responded)=200-280hp+/- RM390
TD05-18g(mid RPM responded,preferable 4 VTEC manual,if auto,go 4 TD04 is better)=280-350hp+/- RM1400
http://www.lelong.com.my/deadbolt-turbo-td05-18g-X246999-2007-01-Sale-I.htm

CONCLUSION:s u mention 0.6-0.8bar,TD04 ok edy,but i recommend TD05 coz can produced more HP if needed,control ur right leg 4 economical requirement,or else u waste ur M/T gearbox and EXEDY clutch change 4 a waste..hehehe,no offend

4) CONCLUSION:Turbo kit can save a lot,if the kit is complete with all things,u can DIY,but ECU better leave to expert to tune,or else u'll get blow blow blow~~~~~~~~~~~~engine!!!!


5) cast iron-RM499
http://www.mudah.my/Infinite+D16+Cast+Iron+Turbo+Manifold+Clearance-5597924.htm

Stainless steel-RM300
http://www.lelong.com.my/turbo-manifold-honda-civic-1-6-62513389-2010-08-Sale-P.htm

CONCLUSION:go 4 the cheaper 1,S. steel is lighter than iron...hehe...

6) Nope,depends on u,can change if got extra $$$$$ for longer use period

7) for the piping size,u can accept what "speed2horizon" opinion....

8) etc, please share your experience.
CONCLUSION:Limit urself,like u mentioned "Just want a normal turbo ride, not for DRAG or Show off",so stick 2 ur plan,dont go deeper n deeper unless ur $$$$ is unlimited..then other money can go for body,ICE,paint n many more...
As J's Racing motto stated,The X'tream Honda Ride,go for a perfect where u got everything in ur car(^_^)~~i dont prefer a "naked" body in my honda without carpet,aircon,HARD DIE suspension,ICE and so on....all in is better~~(^_^)...juz share my own opinion....hehe

 

[dneilmotorsports]

At low boost u no need to fix a piggyback, just remapping ur ecu chip.Only upgrade to turbo chip, can save ur costing. hheee,by the way u must change ur map sensor. The most important thing u must fix a block guard, to keep ur engine not become overhate.. Good luck to u:hmmmm:

---------- Post added at 11:15 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:09 AM ----------

Just fix the Apexi ITC 5button to retard the ignition timming. can cut $$$ ma..

 

[e-jump]

a noobie with stock D16-nonVtec (w/ emanageBlue)reporting in, reviving old thread

I just went to GarageR to inquire some parts, and their manifold fits T3 turbo.
Bro S2H pretty much help me with the turbo infos (http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/tech-forced-induction/16252-bot-bolt-on-turbo-236.html)

Here are the estimate parts that i may need(do correct me if im wrong)
- infinite d16 manifold rm500
- turbine sr20 or rb25 (that fit the banana tapak) rm500
- tial imit. wastegate rm300 (maybe i should go for original?)
- bov rm150
- FMIC kit rm1k
- boost ctlr ?
- injector/fuelrail combo (not sure price, still scouting)
- fuel pump n fuel regulator ?
yup, installer n tuner also important which i dont know who is willing to tune a rojak turbo.
my aim is just low boost 0.3 while using my existing 2" piping n stock internals for now.
Also, is D16 non-vtec conrod is too weak to support under 0.5 bar boost application?

thanks in advance

 

[speed2horizon]

a noobie with stock D16-nonVtec (w/ emanageBlue)reporting in, reviving old thread

I just went to GarageR to inquire some parts, and their manifold fits T3 turbo.
Bro S2H pretty much help me with the turbo infos (http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/tech-forced-induction/16252-bot-bolt-on-turbo-236.html)

Here are the estimate parts that i may need(do correct me if im wrong)
- infinite d16 manifold rm500
- turbine sr20 or rb25 (that fit the banana tapak) rm500
- tial imit. wastegate rm300 (maybe i should go for original?)
- bov rm150
- FMIC kit rm1k
- boost ctlr ?
- injector/fuelrail combo (not sure price, still scouting)
- fuel pump n fuel regulator ?
yup, installer n tuner also important which i dont know who is willing to tune a rojak turbo.
my aim is just low boost 0.3 while using my existing 2" piping n stock internals for now.
Also, is D16 non-vtec conrod is too weak to support under 0.5 bar boost application?

thanks in advance

-The RB25 turbo is T3 flange. So, it's a plug n play.
-The turbo comes with internal wastegate. So, tial is optional.
-BOV, my friend and I have personally tried synapse imitation. As good as the the originals. And still holding strong at 35 psi.
-FMIC, JASMA or China ACR will do. Forget about the big big intercooler if u are looking for response -and torque. The GSR front side mount is good. Or, the Mitsubishi V6 Twin turbo is good and they both cost <RM300 complete wit piping. Just mod the piping.
-Boost controller is built in on the internal wastegate actuator. There's a screw to adjust. The aftermarket boost controller is to increase boost and not decrease.
-The non Vtec is as good as the Vtec rods.
-Injectors and fuel rail. Ur stock fuel rails are more than good for ur proposed application. regarding the injectors, u can opt for the Mitsubishi 4G93T injectors(390cc) which require a resistor pack u can purchase from Jalan Pasar. Just get the resistor for alternative current(long square white color) 10W 10ohm.

Hope this helps....

 

[e-jump]

-The RB25 turbo is T3 flange. So, it's a plug n play.
-The turbo comes with internal wastegate. So, tial is optional.
-BOV, my friend and I have personally tried synapse imitation. As good as the the originals. And still holding strong at 35 psi.
-FMIC, JASMA or China ACR will do. Forget about the big big intercooler if u are looking for response -and torque. The GSR front side mount is good. Or, the Mitsubishi V6 Twin turbo is good and they both cost <RM300 complete wit piping. Just mod the piping.
-Boost controller is built in on the internal wastegate actuator. There's a screw to adjust. The aftermarket boost controller is to increase boost and not decrease.
-The non Vtec is as good as the Vtec rods.
-Injectors and fuel rail. Ur stock fuel rails are more than good for ur proposed application. regarding the injectors, u can opt for the Mitsubishi 4G93T injectors(390cc) which require a resistor pack u can purchase from Jalan Pasar. Just get the resistor for alternative current(long square white color) 10W 10ohm.

Hope this helps....

Again, thanks bro
These infos are super helpful.
I guess im somewhat on the right track. now i need to study more on whats more that i need other than emanage for EMS.
Also, do you have recommendation on who can help with tunings in PJ/Subang/Sunway area?

 

[APTuning]

Stock engine can make 300hp.without EMS your daily driving make you headache and engine overheat.D16 one of the small engine and strong sleave can hold the 500hp with proper tuning.
I hear many complaints here when using a turbo to D16 engine.When the boost in,heat will increase and the timing should be retard.EMS is important..

Good Luck

Advanced Performance Tuning: SOHC D16 350HP Factory Engine

 

[e-jump]

Thanks for the tips bro APTuning
in the expense of saving cost, its like i'm asking for trouble LOL for a DIY-turbo.
Now doing research on 'turbo module' thingie which i dont have a clear idea what it is.
Also i shall consider better radiator for cooling

 

[speed2horizon]

Again, thanks bro
These infos are super helpful.
I guess im somewhat on the right track. now i need to study more on whats more that i need other than emanage for EMS.
Also, do you have recommendation on who can help with tunings in PJ/Subang/Sunway area?

FPR is something nice to have, but not something necessary. Fuel pump, i think the oem is sufficient for ur application. U also need oil feed(normally take from head, T the pressure sensor) and return for the turbo. Water cool hoses(from main water pipe and return).

Customize downpipe.
Boost meter

---------- Post added at 12:07 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:53 AM ----------

Thanks for the tips bro APTuning
in the expense of saving cost, its like i'm asking for trouble LOL for a DIY-turbo.
Now doing research on 'turbo module' thingie which i dont have a clear idea what it is.
Also i shall consider better radiator for cooling

E-damage... Oppsss I mean E-manage is actually sufficient for your application. My friend has been running a DIY set up without problem for over a year with no dramas until the car was stolen...

The guai lo boosted the D16 ZC with stock internals and head gasket to 375WHP. Only on ARP head studs...

 

[e-jump]

necroing a 4yr old thread.. haha..

reporting in that i have been boosted on my single cam (initially ZC) since late 2013.. its been 2 years already with lots of good n bad experience..
i went with a KLG BOT kit where everything is installed under 1 roof.
initial cost was around 9k+
what i got for that money
- FRP T28 spec journal w/ .49ar exhaust side.. Till today i never know the compressor ar
- big FMIC
- 510cc evo3 injector
- log style cast manifold
- 2.5 stock route exhaust, some big 3" tip mufler, open screamer pipe wastegate
- imitation Greddy typeRZ
- imitation tial 38
- 4pot s15 fronts, eg9 rears upgrade
- tune (i had emanage blue prior to boosting)
- 0.5bar boost

i made 180whp 23.~kgm tq boosting 0.5bar with stock clutch slipping on dyno lol.
i learnt alot from this project because from there i got to know my stock clutch cant keep up so replace with exedy stage2, and i need walbro 255.
and i have few points of where my engine broke due to
- original headgasket was carbon n it blown.. later upgraded to 1mm metal hg + ARP studs. engine salvageable.. just to do head work. around 5month after boosting.
- engine start consuming oil like 150ml a month. i had to move to heavier 20w-50 oil.
- improper install of sandwich plate after installing oil press/temp sensor causing oil starvation. this happens 1yr after the ARP studs upgrade. turbo broke as well

im still boosting to date with another D16A engine, but this time i dissect my engine, check all the internals, replace the bearings with ACL duraglides (originally bought for my ZC but have not installed), rebuild the turbo and use 1.5mm cometic mls gasket. unfortunately my arp studs doesnt fit on this engine so i run stock bolts.
My initial ZC(which was also a swapped as my old engine got destroyed from a shitty top overhaul job by another garage) when i did the BOT, i did not do compression test(in fact i never test it since i swapped it in). I do not know the history of the engine. But it lasted me few good years running NA.

My advice, if you want to boost your stock engine and you know your engine history, go for it but start safe from 0.3/0.4bar. at this boost lvl thick headgasket is not necessary yet if your engine is sohc vtec or D16 96 onwards as they came with oem metal gasket.
depending on tuner and luck, sometimes shit happens.. prepare for the worst.

good luck

/ps, i still have the ARP studs + 1mm metal gasket to whoever needs it (just drop me a pm).. but i recommend that if you have not pry open your head and have no intention to go high boost, stick with what you have (stock gasket + bolts)