Side Project-Fun daily driver

jbyap1

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Aug 14, 2020
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Brakes is very important when modding up so most likely rm30k+ for complete job. How much is your car market price now?
Hmm I guess high 30k to low 40k? Yeah brakes are important I know...still working out the costing for the complete build then only decide
 

Izso

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Do you enjoy the ride (the modding process, the pain, the problems) or you want to enjoy the destination (driving the completed car). Different people want different things.

Bear in mind the ride might be bumpy and you might crash and burn.

These days I feel its too much hassle... I'd rather just sell the car you have and buy a FD2R. Since being the last N/A Honda Type R, it will always hold its value.

What make sense for you, may not make sense for me...vice versa.. So it's what YOU WANT. But when starting a project, it is best you ASSUME THE WORSE CASE, that everything is MESSED UP. That way, you won't give up half way of the project. Ask yourself that and be realistic. Learn from other people's mistakes, somebody started a project, crashed and burn and he give up.
Man I can feel the burn half way across klang valley.

Anyway @jbyap1, ixeo is right. He's referring to me btw. I had a 1jz bmw that I was building up but due to budget constraints and rubbish mech/tuner/support I was 30k+ into the build before I got really disheartened cuz the car could barely drive. So sold off the car before I went bankrupt.

The lesson here is knowing and working with someone who knows how to handle the project you have in mind unless you want to DIY. After I sold my car I met and befriended a very knowledgeable tuner/mech who is actually building my ex-car for the new owner. The amount estimated to build up the whole car is about 30k but with much more improved performance parts. So basically had I met this guy earlier I would be happily driving around in a bmw 1jz.

Sigh.

Appreciated the reply man haha actually I enjoy the tinkering process... Finding out what works and what not... Something to keep my mind off work... And enjoy and appreciate the finished work itself... Not gonna squeeze tonnes of power out of it... But jus enuf maybe 200 ish horses and run reliably... Was contemplating this between altezza... But I figure fd2 age better as its not very old still...
Dude. WIth a K24 you'll get way more than 200. You sould be able to easily touch 260-280hp.

As for Altezza it's a pretty simple car to work on - more mechanical than electronic. The 3SGE engine is quite rev happy and get either the G1, G3 or G5 engine models. G2 and G4 are automatics (unless owner converted). There's a shit ton of supporting articles online (including ZTH) and there's Trial tuning in Sg Besi who can strip the Altezza inside out with their eyes closed. It's a different kind of car compared to the FD2.

Personally - I'd sell off the FD2 as is since it holds its value, then buy an Altezza cash, they go for 40k to 50k these days cash for a 6-speed manual. But that's because I'm a miser and likes money. Spending the equivalent of an Altezza on a car that will eventually sell for 30-40k is a bit extreme.

But again like Ixeo said - this is all on you. You do what you feel you want to do, we can only give our 2 cents.
 

ixeo

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Hmm so total around 60-70k? Can buy Accord Euro R CL7 or Civic FN2R?
Civic FN2R is a good suggestion actually. It is a good car, but low value. Accord Euro R CL7.. if he wants a bigger sedan.

Man I can feel the burn half way across klang valley.
:rofl:
 

6UE5t

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Civic FN2R is a good suggestion actually. It is a good car, but low value. Accord Euro R CL7.. if he wants a bigger sedan.



:rofl:
Yes FN2R is a kinda the "forgotten, unloved child" of the Type R family but it's still an original Type R after all. Doesn't look that nice but subjective taste aside, it's the cheapest proper Type R you can buy.

CL7 is slightly longer and 100kg heavier.
 

nw111

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Feb 13, 2018
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Altezza is rear wheel drive, stock with a high revving engine (pls don't say you want auto). Between the tezza and FD2... I would choose the tezza, as I feel it is a better platform being RWD (yes I am biased). Plus in stock form, it comes with a very good engine already, and in terms of modding, you have the 1JZ and 2JZ options.. or if you're crazy enough you can stick a V8 in


Plus Altezza isn't as common as the FD. You drive a FD2R...people think its fake with bodykits. A Tezza is a Tezza.

My 2 cents.
Local example belonged to our fellow forumer


Yes FN2R is a kinda the "forgotten, unloved child" of the Type R family but it's still an original Type R after all. Doesn't look that nice but subjective taste aside, it's the cheapest proper Type R you can buy.

CL7 is slightly longer and 100kg heavier.
Why forgotten & unloved? Because rear torsion beam instead of double wishbone like on EP3R & FD2R & heavier than those two. Hugely disappointed when I drove one.

With CL7 weighing in close to 1.4 tonne I'd focus on increasing the torque (BOT? K20/K24 hybrid?).
 
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ixeo

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Local example belonged to our fellow forumer




Why forgotten & unloved? Because rear torsion beam instead of double wishbone like on EP3R & FD2R. Hugely disappointed when I drove one.
Is the difference that pronounced? Rear torsion beam... Clio RS & Fiesta ST is also using that. I don't know, having never drove any. Myvi with rear torsion beam steers like a boat.
 

jbyap1

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Wow thanks for the reply.. Will take all points into consideration...
 

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